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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone adapted the rear brake to disc and tied the front and rear in with one brake pedal? i want to clean up my bars and thought if i put on a rear disc brake, tied it to the foot pedal, put the fluid res. down by the pedal, extended the front brake line to the res. and install a proportioning valve to control front to rear brake pressure i could clean up a few little gremlins that bother my about the bike. i see that similar things have been done on non hondas but i want to know if anyone here has tried it and has any tips.
 

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has anyone adapted the rear brake to disc and tied the front and rear in with one brake pedal? i want to clean up my bars and thought if i put on a rear disc brake, tied it to the foot pedal, put the fluid res. down by the pedal, extended the front brake line to the res. and install a proportioning valve to control front to rear brake pressure i could clean up a few little gremlins that bother my about the bike. i see that similar things have been done on non hondas but i want to know if anyone here has tried it and has any tips.
jerry[spacetiger]did something similar on the old forum.im sure someone will have bookmarked it
 

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jerry[spacetiger]did something similar on the old forum.im sure someone will have bookmarked it
I think some Goldwings have a unified braking system. I had a 1981 GL1100 that was linked with one front caliper and the rear brake working together via the foot lever? and the lever added the other front caliper. Makes it like driveing a car more or less. Older Vespas had a foot brake.

Cheers, 50gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
a guy i work with has an 85 gw i saw a handbrake last time he rode in but i will ask him. that may be the ticket. i was just going to get a proportiong valve from the hot rod shop, have our hose dist. make me some brake lines and canabalize a brake from the salvage yard. still might cuz i'm cheap and won't want to buy gold wing parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
he just told me to forget it and its cheaper to just buy a bike with hydraulic brakes. his gw is a tied in brake system. he has 2 calipers for the front and the foot brake activates 1 of them and the rear brake. i wonder if i can take the existing equipment and just move the front brake actuating system to the foot pedal, and leave the rear brake mechanical. my ultimate goal is to have everything done for less than a grand. the bike is at 850 now and i don't want to go anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
does anyone have a diagram etc of how the brake master cylinder works? when you squeeze the lever does it pull on the piston or push on it? i'm assuming its push but i'm stuck at work and don't have the bike in front of me.
 

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I'm stuck at home... sick.



There are threads Re this in the archives but it seems the CXturbo rear end with disco brake would be the easiest way to go...



Fluid is compressed in the master cyl pushing the piston(s) against the outside pad. I'm not a brake expert, but just changed my caliper to a slightly larger piston dia. It was easy and pretty painless.



I'd keep the front and rear brakes seperate cause it ain't a car (one pedal, all four brakes) and I don't use the rear much at all anyway.
 

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There was a year or two when unified brakes were used, according to the instructor at my motorcycle safety class. I guess they did away with it pretty quickly for safety reasons, realizing that it is much better to have separate brakes. He said the proportioning between the front and rear was a tricky engineering feat also and wasn't very reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Go on, just do it.



You know you want to....



Dive in, sink or swim.....



..and some nice photos for us lazy buggers.




I am itching to do it but safety is important. i am not in a hurry to die. my biggest concern is that i have bled the front brake 4 times, it has all fresh fluid and the lever is extremely hard. i figure if i have to redo the system i'll redo it the way i want. i gotta check the front pads and see how much is left. the rotor needs to be cleaned up really bad.
 

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The DN-01 has an interesting feature on it.

the Hand brake operates 5 of the 6 pots on the front wheel (dual disc - with 3 'pots' each side)

The rear (foot operated) brake operates the 3 pots on the back wheel (single disc) and the one 'other' pot on the front.

They are all controlled by ABS braking. It was a tricky learning curve - with the ABS and I'm not sure if the issue(s)

I've had with it, were due to the both brakes being activated by the foot pedal, or just familiarity with ABS on the motor-

cycle in general. I've only panic braked twice - once around a corner, encoutering loose gravel on the road, and yesterday,

when the Highway came to an abrupt stop from 70-80 mph down to nothing in about 60 feet.



Either way, I'm good now, and we (bike and rider) lived through the learning curve.
 

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I would not want the front and rear brake tied together - even with a proportioning valve - unless I had ABS at least on the front wheel. If you locked up the front wheel on a wet painted white or yellow line and you had to back off the pedal pressure you would also loose the back brake. On a 4 wheel vehicle it would not be as big a problem because you have 3 other wheels and would not fall on your face.
 

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There was a year or two when unified brakes were used, according to the instructor at my motorcycle safety class. I guess they did away with it pretty quickly for safety reasons, realizing that it is much better to have separate brakes. He said the proportioning between the front and rear was a tricky engineering feat also and wasn't very reliable.


As Sarnia says about the DN, my wife's former 2006 250 Reflex also had an integrated F/R braking system with ABS. Rear brakes on the Scoots are handled by the "clutch", left hand handlebar lever.
 
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