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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
right im getting real cheesed off now,,

i fitted a second hand r/r thismorning thanks guys for the info on how to test an r/r, started the bike took it for a good 20 minute ride,, got home and forgot some smokes,, went to start and she is dead,, i just looked up the cdi ignition/stator check, got my multi meter out and started checking, fair play what a handy little diagram, the resistance is as follows,, oh and new batterie and leads on the meter read 0 ohms,,



1/5,,,,,,, 113.5

2/5,,,,,,, 97.1

3/5,,,,,,, 222.4

4/5,,,,,,, 116

6/5,,,,,,, 99.4

7/5,,,,,,, 221.3

8/9,,,,,,, 131.9

5/9,,,,,,, 394



between pin 8/9 the reading is 36.9 ohms higher than the given value of between 77 and 95 ohms, what is this telling me??? would this be why im not charging??? also would this be why im running like a bag of shit???



andy
 

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Andy,iv just looked at your other thread ref.r/r.

ill let the sparkys go through your results.

but,if you put your multi meter accross your battery terminals at 2500 rpm.what reading are you getting
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i think it was around the 12.3 volt mark but the more you rev the bike shurley you should see a peek in the voltage as at the moment it just sits at the same voltage and she always takes some starting too never fires on the button it is like she is lazy
 

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i think it was around the 12.3 volt mark but the more you rev the bike shurley you should see a peek in the voltage as at the moment it just sits at the same voltage and she always takes some starting too never fires on the button it is like she is lazy
im confused..........

your other thread,by replacing the r*r,which disspaits excess electricity.it looks as though on that reading thats its hardly being used.

you should show 14.5 volts at 2500 rpm,even with all the lights on.

id wait to see what the experts make of your resistance readings
 

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Andy

Yer barking up the wrong tree mate

Those tests/readings are for the CDI part of the system and not related to charging



I suggest you ignore them for now and focus on the 3 way connector with 3 yellow wires

the Rectumfrier and the battery as thats where the problem is



1st open and test the resistance on the 3 way connector from the rear of the case

you want to see very low resistance between any pair (=< 1 ohm)

and very high resistance between any yellow and earth/ground (magaohms)



If you get this, good. You can move on to the RR

If you dont get this you have faulty charging coils



I dont know what RR you have but it should have 3 phase wires that connect to the stator

and three wires for output

DC out

Earth/ground

Sense

I suggested some tests to see which is which on another thread did you do them?





BTW 8-9 is a bit high but not neccesarily a problem



BTW2

never tried it but I'm guessing that

swapping the earth amd sense wires on the RR will probably cause the DC output to nosedive
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes, i done them and the brown was the earth and green was the sence wire,, il re test as you have described in a mo,, this electrickery stuff does my head,its a big learning curve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
right just tested as you described,, between any pair of yellow wires im reading 00.7ohms and from any yellow to earth i am reading 0.1 ohm this didnot read megohm
 

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The first reading of less than an ohm between any pair of yellow wires

looks good.

the other reading is worrying

It should be in the megaohm range.

before we make any assumptions I suggest you test it again

you want resistances of at least a megaohm on a healthy stator.



If you continue to get low readings between any yellow wire and earth

this indicates the charge coils have failed and you need a new stator.



If so, I;m wondering if you actually needed a new RR as they are tough as old boots

usually and last for years.



Edit: as I recall, I got about 4 megaohms last time I did this test on mine

I can check mine in a minute of its any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just re checked accross the yellow wire male terminals to earth and they definatly dont read megohms
 

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Sorry mate

It sounds as if your stator is gone

I just checked mine out of curiosity and

measuring between any male terminal on the yellow wires

to earth is off the scale.



Now, I reckon yer RR was probably fine.



Just been checking prices for new G47 stators and Jeez !!

they seem to have doubled since I last use them and seem to be

in the region of £100+

Thats for Electrex ones as well



A second hand one is a gamble so

I'd look for a rewinder and try and save few quid

A mate of mine with a CDI bike mentioned pitstop motocycles as a good source

for rewinds



Unit 10 Grafton Place

Morecambe

Lancs

LA3 1RZ

01524 417505



it might be worth giving them a bell if you dont have a good rewind place near to you
 

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+ 1 on what Reg says.



I´ve had some (3-4) stators rewound by Pitstop. Can´t say anything negative about them. Everything has functioned very well and they have a fast turnaround. You´ll probably not see much epoxy resin on them - something that disturbs me a little. I´ve had a bunch of stators rewound in Germany (more expensive) but they put a good amount of resin on them - for what it´s worth.



It´s my understanding that resistance values alone aren´t 100 % reliable for checking a stator. It´s better (at least as a further check) to measure output voltage (block connector apart) @ 5000 rpm. Between any pair of yellow cables you should see something like 85 - 90 V AC. Also between any yellow and ground/frame.



I did a job recently on a 535 Virago. Sort of strange resistance values. Output voltage told the truth - a stray bolt fragment wedged in between two of the coils had damaged them.



Sture
 

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Ther you go Andy, a recomendation for Pitstop

I hope they still do them and are reasonable price wise



I agree that resistance tests only indicate and further tests are often needed

and can help but in this case with readings of <1 ohm to ground

any voltage would be just that and little power (voltage + current) would be produced.



Before I moved to a TI motor I mused over building a few boxes to test what

actual work the stators would do.

This seemed a better, more definitive method of testing the charging coils and CDI stators.

but other stuff took precedence and I never got around to it and TBH, resistance tests were

usually good enough indicators when fault finding.
 

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Another alternative not mentioned is to upgrade to an,"Ignitech" ignition.If you like the bike and are going to keep it this is a worthy upgrade.Use the search function for ignitech.



This will not only allow you remove the older CDI unit but use the much cheaper,simpler and more abundant and higher powered G8 stators,



http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/GL_500_DC_Silverwing_PC02/82-85/picture/Generator_-_Stator/





You could recoup some money by selling the CDI unit if it's still working as well
 

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Thats a good point actually because even with a rewound G47

the advance coils may be shot which will affect the power and

the CDI box can fail without warning.

You cant buy either of these new AFAIK.
 

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this is like watching a tennis match....sweet
 

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Thats a good point actually because even with a rewound G47

the advance coils may be shot which will affect the power and

the CDI box can fail without warning.

You cant buy either of these new AFAIK.


That's another advantage to the Ignitechs Reg.I'd love to upgrade but I have so many spares including Advance and retard plates,CDI boxes and stators that I can't warrant it for now
 

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Is it?

hang on, I'll get me plimsolls....................
from my perspective Reg,its true.no one professes to know everything.so you have people who know a lot,bounce ideas of each other.


if Davef and Allan chipped in.....it would be doubles
 

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