They shouldn't be tight but shouldn't be loose either.Be careful as the tips are very easy to break.
idle screw adjusters
that's about where I am with my rebuild on the carbs.
effing head snapped off, was lucky 2 times - got it out, and had a spare idle screw.
My question is, how tight and in should they be? In larry's book he says to make sure they are the same (by checking the bottom) but, the tips are recessed, and I can't tell.
effing head snapped off, was lucky 2 times - got it out, and had a spare idle screw.
My question is, how tight and in should they be? In larry's book he says to make sure they are the same (by checking the bottom) but, the tips are recessed, and I can't tell.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
They shouldn't be tight but shouldn't be loose either.Be careful as the tips are very easy to break.
larry's book said to tighten until they stop, then 2½ turns back. I am unsure what he means by 2½ turns. Is "turn" a full 360 unscrew? if so, then I won't be able to see the tips on the bottom...
yes. easily snap off is right. Luckily, I have some small drill bits, and the adjusters are soft metal. Drilled 3 holes (making a slot for flathead) came out.
Screw in until LIGHTLY seated. Turns are counted as full 360 degree turns.
If you drilled out the stuck tips that you've probably created a headache for yourself as those holes are tapered. I just had the same thing happen to me last month and in the process of getting the tip out I "coned" out the tunnel side hole slightly which is making adjusting the carbs a pain.larry's book said to tighten until they stop, then 2½ turns back. I am unsure what he means by 2½ turns. Is "turn" a full 360 unscrew? if so, then I won't be able to see the tips on the bottom...
yes. easily snap off is right. Luckily, I have some small drill bits, and the adjusters are soft metal. Drilled 3 holes (making a slot for flathead) came out.
If you drilled out the stuck tips that you've probably created a headache for yourself as those holes are tapered. I just had the same thing happen to me last month and in the process of getting the tip out I "coned" out the tunnel side hole slightly which is making adjusting the carbs a pain.
no, luckily, the adjuster came right out. the threads are still perfect and in tact.
got another question about assembly...
Slide pistons...
The large plastic ring goes in, lip end up....
I insert the slide piston dry. It slides up and down smoothly.
However if pressed onto the plastic ring, it almost locks into place.
Everything is clean - not sure why or if this is supposed to be happening...
Slide pistons...
The large plastic ring goes in, lip end up....
I insert the slide piston dry. It slides up and down smoothly.
However if pressed onto the plastic ring, it almost locks into place.
Everything is clean - not sure why or if this is supposed to be happening...
No, that isn't supposed to happen. The pistons should be able to be raised and drop back when lifted through the choke butterfly hole. Are you installing the plastic ring first? Then drop the piston in, add the spring and then the cap. Maybe there is a burr on the piston top? Or one on the plastic ring? I think the purpose of the plastic ring is twofold, one to provide a cushion when the piston drops, and to provide a seal at the cap and carb body.
Thanks Blue Fox. I blasted the hell out of it and cleaned it a few more rounds in the ultra sonic cleaner, slides perfectly now.
hey...you must be a new member.can you please set up your profile.show your location and your bikes details......lmaoNo, that isn't supposed to happen. The pistons should be able to be raised and drop back when lifted through the choke butterfly hole. Are you installing the plastic ring first? Then drop the piston in, add the spring and then the cap. Maybe there is a burr on the piston top? Or one on the plastic ring? I think the purpose of the plastic ring is twofold, one to provide a cushion when the piston drops, and to provide a seal at the cap and carb body.
nice to see you back Blue
2
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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