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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to keep the, well, "sporty"-ish nature of the bike going, so i want to instal. some highway bars that are kind of hidden. I know most pegs fold up and i intend to use this to my advantage, but my big question is, where's the best place to mount? When folded, i don't want the pegs to stick out very noticeably like crashbars or anything. Always figured it's best to ask the folks that might know before i start bolting things up and breaking something, since our engine seems to be just about the only place to do such a thing. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, the fabrication is pretty easy to me, i just want to know if there would be a preferable mounting position.



Scott
 

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Hi Scott,

If you look at the pic in my profile you may be able to save it and blow it up to see the cruising pegs better. They are mounted to the tabs with holes on the bottom front of the motor. They do fold up. I'm unable to send you any additional pics at the moment but, tomorrow I could give you the dimensions and measurements. Mine came with the bike and I'm an ex-racer. Once in a while I will hit a favorite turn kind of hard and scar the ashphalt with the body of the cruiser pegs. It woke me up the first time. I thought of cutting the body shorter but, then I'm getting older, maybe wiser and decided to back off a little and just cruise. Something to take in to considration. If you're into throwing the bike around I would shorten it but, because of the closeness of the exhaust pipes which melted the heal of my boot when I first got the bike I would extend the length of the folding pegs allowing your shoes ample distance from the pipes. Be sure the pegs are not touching the pipes when folded up. If they're rubber they will melt and or if they are steel you could acquire a rattle. To avoid this, incorporate a stop or you may want to play with the design, bending or welding the unit in a fashion that raises the pegs above the pipes. What ever fits you. I'm over 6 foot so, forward and low is good for me. Another reason for leaving mine where they are at.

I'll post the specs of mine in the morning.

Aloha
 

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I made mine out stainless tube and a set of rear pegs I bought from my local bike dismantlers. They are a tube loop mounted to the bracket where engine bars normally bolt to the front top of the engine and to that cast loop on the bottom.

I wish I could include a couple of photos for you, but my son has just installed Windows 7 to my 'puter and I've got no idea where they've gone to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Scott,

If you look at the pic in my profile you may be able to save it and blow it up to see the cruising pegs better. They are mounted to the tabs with holes on the bottom front of the motor. They do fold up. I'm unable to send you any additional pics at the moment but, tomorrow I could give you the dimensions and measurements. Mine came with the bike and I'm an ex-racer. Once in a while I will hit a favorite turn kind of hard and scar the ashphalt with the body of the cruiser pegs. It woke me up the first time. I thought of cutting the body shorter but, then I'm getting older, maybe wiser and decided to back off a little and just cruise. Something to take in to considration. If you're into throwing the bike around I would shorten it but, because of the closeness of the exhaust pipes which melted the heal of my boot when I first got the bike I would extend the length of the folding pegs allowing your shoes ample distance from the pipes. Be sure the pegs are not touching the pipes when folded up. If they're rubber they will melt and or if they are steel you could acquire a rattle. To avoid this, incorporate a stop or you may want to play with the design, bending or welding the unit in a fashion that raises the pegs above the pipes. What ever fits you. I'm over 6 foot so, forward and low is good for me. Another reason for leaving mine where they are at.

I'll post the specs of mine in the morning.

Aloha




As the saying goes, and i do think i'm paraphrasing a bit; "My kingdom for a welder!". This is my current shortcoming. But i see a few ways i could use the same mounding as you, but bring the "folded up" height up quite a bit. I would likely use metal pegs of some form anyway. it's more of a matter that i take long rides AND like to flick around in the corners. I've been considering a makeup in my head for some time that would actually bring the pegs up and back, and give it more of a sport bike position. I think the eurosport might have something like that going on, but honestly i can never find a good picture of them to really tell. I figure doing this will give me something do do over the winter, and gain me some much needed "toe to pavement" clearance next year. But i also enjoy just riding around and cruising. i've owned my bike since march, put about 4500mi on it since, and it fits the bill for me. So i kind of wanted to keep some highway pegs that were "discrete", not to the eye, but to the ground.





I'll have to see what i can come up with. my lack of a welder(and money to buy one)really kind of kills it, but i might see if i can get a friend to help out in that department.
 

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Hi again Scott,

You can build them mechanically and it could be done nice and neat as well. I have a design in my head that's quite simple if your interested. Aside from the foot pegs and the brackets like the rear sets on our bikes or a similar design which you should be able to find at a bike salvage or possibly ebay, everything else is available at Home Depot. The tools needed would be a drill, drill bits, grinder or mini grinder for cutting. If you have no grinder, you can use a hack saw and file. It takes a little longer and is a bit more physical but, will do the job just fine and achive the same results. Let me know and i'll give you a material list and detailed instructions.

I have some down time at the moment because I had hernia surgery last Weds. and this gives me something to do. If you have the time and patience it will turn out nice.

Aloha,

Joe:)



P.S. Forgive me if I'm long winded, babble, leave out details ( Don't hesitate to ask. There are no dumb questions, only dumb mistakes) or I ask a dumb question, I'm on drugs right now (prescribed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi again Scott,

You can build them mechanically and it could be done nice and neat as well. I have a design in my head that's quite simple if your interested. Aside from the foot pegs and the brackets like the rear sets on our bikes or a similar design which you should be able to find at a bike salvage or possibly ebay, everything else is available at Home Depot. The tools needed would be a drill, drill bits, grinder or mini grinder for cutting. If you have no grinder, you can use a hack saw and file. It takes a little longer and is a bit more physical but, will do the job just fine and achive the same results. Let me know and i'll give you a material list and detailed instructions.

I have some down time at the moment because I had hernia surgery last Weds. and this gives me something to do. If you have the time and patience it will turn out nice.

Aloha,

Joe:)



P.S. Forgive me if I'm long winded, babble, leave out details ( Don't hesitate to ask. There are no dumb questions, only dumb mistakes) or I ask a dumb question, I'm on drugs right now (prescribed).


I'm always interested. I have an idea in my head, as well, and while i don't have a welder, i have everything else. I also have a few friends that work in welding shops. if it's only a few stitches, they don't mind doing it when they have a minute. I'm trying to keep them "hidden" when folded, and want to keep the ground clearance, my biggest issue to this point is, well, where to mount them.



This is where i need the most help, since our bikes don't have downtubes and all. I see a couple of eyelets on the block, but there's obvious concerns with that. I wouldn't mind using them in conjunction with another, higher mounting point, but i'm not quite sure where to start. Basically i have a folding, semi-hidden, high clearence highway peg setup in my head, but only so much, since mounting is so important.



It's ok bud! I'm long winded, too. lol
 

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I just got back from the supermarket so, when I've finished my lunch I'll start rattling on.

Aloha
 

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I'm always interested. I have an idea in my head, as well, and while i don't have a welder, i have everything else. I also have a few friends that work in welding shops. if it's only a few stitches, they don't mind doing it when they have a minute. I'm trying to keep them "hidden" when folded, and want to keep the ground clearance, my biggest issue to this point is, well, where to mount them.



This is where i need the most help, since our bikes don't have downtubes and all. I see a couple of eyelets on the block, but there's obvious concerns with that. I wouldn't mind using them in conjunction with another, higher mounting point, but i'm not quite sure where to start. Basically i have a folding, semi-hidden, high clearence highway peg setup in my head, but only so much, since mounting is so important.



It's ok bud! I'm long winded, too. lol
Hi:

See saddle up in the general discussion form. There are pictures that show the mounting and the location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi:

See saddle up in the general discussion form. There are pictures that show the mounting and the location.




Yeah, infact, that's about identical to what i was going to make. My concern is the strength of those mounting points, and was wondeirng if anyone had found other, maybe stronger ones, or at least a second mounting point, ya know? I'm just concerned about the overall strength over time. I live in CT, and honestly hour roads have gotten horrific over the last few years, on top of that, i'm a big dude. So one of my concerns would be hitting a bump, and sheering that cast aluminum, i'm sure many others have had this fear over the years, too. Was curious if someone found a solution



On a side note: has anyone installed eurosport pegs and brackets on a CX before? From what it looks like, a bit of drilling and whatnot could make this feasible. Or at least a similar setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, infact, that's about identical to what i was going to make. My concern is the strength of those mounting points, and was wondeirng if anyone had found other, maybe stronger ones, or at least a second mounting point, ya know? I'm just concerned about the overall strength over time. I live in CT, and honestly hour roads have gotten horrific over the last few years, on top of that, i'm a big dude. So one of my concerns would be hitting a bump, and sheering that cast aluminum, i'm sure many others have had this fear over the years, too. Was curious if someone found a solution



On a side note: has anyone installed eurosport pegs and brackets on a CX before? From what it looks like, a bit of drilling and whatnot could make this feasible. Or at least a similar setup.




Ok, i know i'm breaking a cardinal rule about posting instead of editing, but i thought this was fairly important, and worth knowing. To those of you that don't use your bike two-up, it seems the back pegs can be modified into highway pegs. It's a bit late, but tomorrow i'm going to take a spare set of backs i have and try it out. The threaded rod coupler might not work for me anyway since my header would be in the way, so this could be a very quick, easy fix with nothing more than some old parts and a drill.
 

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I just looked at the saddle up post. That's a good simple system. Mine which came with the bike is a 1" square steel tubing with tabs welded to the front and back of the tubing and bolt onto the ears of the block. The length of the tabs and the set backs are different on each side because the engine block ears are not symetrical. A set of CX rear peg brackets are welded to the ends. I plan to alter the design a bit for not wanting to dig in and throw chunks of ashphalt as I did the first couple turns that I tried to hot shoe around. I learned it's limits and rarely graze the bar anymore. I do scuff the pegs and pop those up now and then.

To those who would consider this design here are the demensions. Right and left sides are as sitting on the bike.



1" square steel tubing 17 3/4" long



The tabs are flush with the bottom of the tubing. This leaves 7/16" of clearence between engine and the top of the tubing. ( I thought of shortening these 1/4" for a small gain in height) More clearence alterations below.



Right side tabs are 1" wide X 2 1/2" tall. The backset is 3 3/8" from the end of the tubing to the edge of the tab. The bolt holes are centered side to side and 3/8" down from the top to center of the hole.



Left side tabs are 1" wide X 3 1/2" tall. The backset is 2 3/8" from the end of the tubing in to the tab. The holes are the same. 3/8" down and centered.



The tab on the back of the tubing needs a 1/4" shim because the block ears are only 3/4" thick and the tube is 1". If your good at bending you could alter the back tab giving it a Z bend. You could go with 3/4" tube but, I think whoever built this set may have considered it but, the pegs may have looked really large on the end of a little stick.



At these demensions when the pegs are folded up have a space of about 1/2" between the rubber and the header. Just enough not to melt em.

My thoughts to altering these is to cut off as much as possible from the ends of the tubing. Around 1" I think. Then plate the end with a hole in the center and a nut welded to the inside. Then take a piece of flat bar with holes at each end. Maybe multiple holes at the end for the pegs so I can experiment with the lengths and I can spin the flat bar 360 degrees until I find the most comfortable position for me.

This won't take place for a while. I just had open hernia surgery. I can't post any pictures other than the one that's in my profile because my digital camera went belly up recently. I guess everything old starts breaking. Got to get back on my feet before I can grab another camera.

I stripped and painted the motor recently and inspected the ears with no paint and there was no visible signs of tearing or stress cracks. I failed to mention the tabs did bend and I had to straighten them. So, tweaking is in order. If you lay the bike down and they don't hit, the ears are no concern.

Hope this is of some use. It's straight in my head now.

Thanks,

Aloha
 

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I should have posted this for all to see. It's a real simple design.







Aloha
 

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Thanks Scott,

I'm doing a lot better. Some may scoff at the idea and before I mention it, I have to stress the key word "Clean". I've had a 100% success rate with JB Weld on many different parts including interior engine components. If you don't have the time and patience to thouroghly clean the part and area to be repaired don't attempt it because it will most likely break.

I'm sure you're reffering to the mounting hole at the bottom of the motor. If it broke off on the road and it's gone use masking tape to make form. If it did'nt and it's partially cracked or broken and the break is thru the hole area which is most likely the case, wiggle it back and forth with vise grips or good pliers to break it off. If the break is above the hole I would think twice about breaking it off. If it is broken thru the hole and you have the piece you can reattatch it but, loosly so, that you have 1/16" to 1/8" of JB Weld in the joint. I experimented with it before using it on a part to see if my therory was correct and it was. I'm a carpenter by trade and when you glue 2 pieces of wood together you apply the glue to both (which should be the same with JB Weld) and clamp it together squeezing all the excess glue out. JB Weld has no strength applied in this fashion. I tried this first on a part and snapped it apart with my hands. Then I put it back together loosely with about 1/16" filled gap and it was strong as can be. So, if you have the piece, use a piece of masking tape to make a craddle, holding it in place. Keep and eye on it for about an hour. This is about the time it takes to set depending on the temperature. Again I can't stress enough that the pieces have to be absolutly clean and your confident in what your doing. Otherwise as Dad use to say, " If your not going to do it right the first time, don't do it at all". I would wait 72 hours for the epoxy to completely cure before attaching anything to it.

After about 8 hrs or over night you can file and or sand it to shape it. If the piece is gone and there is a portion of the hole left, file and or sand the JB Weld to where it is the same thickness. If you have a set of calipers, they're really helpful. If not and you have a good adjustable (cresent) wrench use it as a gauge. The more precise you are the better the stronger the results. Slightly smaller would be better as it allows the tab to be squeezed on the aluminum when the bolt is tightened.

I wouldn't hesitate on my bike but, if you have doubts, DON'T DO IT. Disregard this post and carry on.

Two things I forgot to mention:



#1 Wash the front of the engine with something like simple green or even liquid detergent that breaks down greese and oil, let dry or blow dry with "Clean" compressed air, then wash the area and broken piece if you have it with acetone. This not an option and essential to achiving maximum results.



#2 It just occured to me you have an aftermarket exhaust which may be very close to the mount point. Note the picture of my bike, the header is above and clear of the holes and being heat rises is a plus. If it is close I would incorporate a heat shield fabricated from sheet metal, an old pie pan or steel paint roller pan if the header is not to terribly close, in which case ABORT and continue the quest of an alternate means of mounting the pegs.



Although this post may not have been help to you, it could possibly spark an idea or help someone else.

Aloha,

Joe

P.S. If I left anything out or unclear on some point don't hesitate ask.
 

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does no one worry about those tabs breaking off at all if the bike goes over on its side?
 

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Hi Lucky,

Yes, I am concerned about ripping the ears off which is the reason I don't sling my bike into turns as hard as I use to. Thanks for bringing it up again, you triggered a new thought in design. I mentioned a flat bar in the design in my 09 August post and it just occured to me withstock pipes anyway that it may possible to shorten the square tube to where the flat bar could be run between the motor and the header, tucking the pegs in to the point where I'm fairly confident they won't touch the ground at all. Even if you drop the bike on the ground. I'll have to go look at my bike.



OK, I looked and it would work and be tucked in enough to not touch the ground if the bike is dropped. The question is, will it be comfortable. Looks like the peg location can be played with a bit and you can get creative. Might look OK too.
 
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