[stern-69]

You will get about of cup of coolant out of the cylinder drain plugs, as it lets out the coolant stuck in the head passages that cant drain by gravity to the bottom coolant hose, so its normal. I would recommend a flush before finishing up and adding coolant.



Take some pics and post them of the heads and cylinders, and people here can tell you what they think. As for valve guides, I would check them (replace them only if they are bad) and lap the valves as it makes a huge difference. I picked up a set of valve oil seals when I did my heads off Ebay, and they were not that expensive for a set of 8. chances are when you check the valve guides they may be ok, the manual gives you the slack and wiggle values.

 

[Shep]

Ok, so an intial top up of 240 ml then 120 ml from then on. How often tho? At oil change intervals?



Cheers for the info.

To answer both.Just add 120 ml for your FJ at oil changes after that initial 240 Ml and it's an engine additive so just stick it in the oil

 

[King_Panther13]

You will get about of cup of coolant out of the cylinder drain plugs, as it lets out the coolant stuck in the head passages that cant drain by gravity to the bottom coolant hose, so its normal. I would recommend a flush before finishing up and adding coolant.



Take some pics and post them of the heads and cylinders, and people here can tell you what they think. As for valve guides, I would check them (replace them only if they are bad) and lap the valves as it makes a huge difference. I picked up a set of valve oil seals when I did my heads off Ebay, and they were not that expensive for a set of 8. chances are when you check the valve guides they may be ok, the manual gives you the slack and wiggle values.

Yeah, I'm going to flush the crap out of the system before actually running it. The rust looks kind of bad, but I've heard that it's not hard to flush out. I'll be getting my camera fixed soon so I'll be able to take some pics. I would have done it today if it wasn't raining. Fixing my camera goes hand in hand with working on my suspension issues...I'm bugging the same uncle to help me with both hehe.



Anyhow, I've been trying to get the hold-down bolts out, and they just won't budge. At first I was afraid to put too much pressure on them, but I was able to make each one *click* like it just broke loose. I've been doing the criss-cross pattern the manual suggests. I think that the click may have been in my socket, as it looks like each bolt took small chunks out of it.



I tried using my extended socket so I wouldn't have to use my extension and a smaller socket... I held the engine still, pushed, and heard a snap. I thought that I broke the bolt loose finally, but it broke the socket itself! Holy crap these are tight.



I'm deathly afraid of breaking something or rounding out another bolt. Should these really be in this tight? Did I possibly miss something? Cylinder is definitely at TDC on the compression stroke, and I removed the smaller bolts on the outside of the cylinder already.



Is this a good place to use penetrating oil, or should I just keep muscling until they finally break loose?

 

[VtypeV4]

To answer both.Just add 120 ml for your FJ at oil changes after that initial 240 Ml and it's an engine additive so just stick it in the oil

Convenient that I'm just due for an oil change on both bikes..



Cheers Shep, much appreciated. Sorry to hijack the thread.

 

[King_Panther13]

NP Vtype. I'll be doing the same once I get this engine built up...interesting stuff.



Anyhow, I'm still trying to get the hold-down bolts loose. They are REALLY tight in there. I tried rotating to TDC on the right cylinder, and breaking those loose, but they're just as tight.



Can I use penetrating oil on those, or are they in a bad location? I even called in my father to lend me a hand, and we broke the chair that the engine was sitting on because of how damn tight they are.

 

[DanCX500]

OP



Are you using good quality 6 point sockets? They will help you in not rounding the heads of the bolts off.



Have you shown your uncle this thread?



Good luck!

 

[King_Panther13]

OP



Are you using good quality 6 point sockets? They will help you in not rounding the heads of the bolts off.



Have you shown your uncle this thread?



Good luck!

My uncle doesn't know how to use the internet

But I'll show it to him when I get to him for the other things.



I'd been using my six point 14mm socket with my 3/8 inch drive wrench. We were able to get just one of the bolts to budge. I have a 1/2 inch drive wrench with a much larger handle, but only old 12 point sockets that I didn't trust too much. I was afraid of rounding out my bolts. I was convinced to try it with just a small amount of pressure, and everything broke loose evenly. Nice. I need to buy some 1/2 inch drive 6 point sockets now. They all came out with very minimal damage to the points. Not nearly enough to be considered rounding.



Now I'm busy knocking at it with the rubber mallet and pulling it all apart. I'll be doing the right side tonight too now that I'm on a roll.

 

[VtypeV4]

Cheers man, had a look at Sheps link, its quite cheap too so its all good.



With regards to your cylinder head fasteners, I would expect them to be reasonably tight but not socket-breakingly stiff. I've never had a CX engine apart but when I did my FJ engine, I used 18" long, half inch drive breaker bar whilst my friend held the thing in place on the bench.



I wouldn't expect to do them with a cheap socket and a normal sized 1/2" drive ratchet tho. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not saying you have poor tools but having the right ones makes it much easier.



Good luck.

 

[King_Panther13]

I don't own any breaker bars, though I think that my click type torque wrench is designed to work as one. Maybe I should grab one. None of the sockets I've used on the thing are cheap, but as you said, probably not the right type. I think if I get some good 1/2 inch drive 6 point sockets I should be fine for the right cylinder. Or maybe a breaker bar as you said.



Anyhow, after removing the rocker assembly we tried to get the head off and it just wouldn't budge. Whacked at it for a while with the rubber mallet to no avail. It looks like the PO was overzealous with gasket sealer ,as evidenced by the huge amount I found gunked up in one of the water pipes. Yikes. So I decided to spray some penetrating oil around the gasket, and let it sit for the night. Hopefully that's not a bad place to be spraying the stuff, but I figure I'm going to have to replace the gasket anyhow, so why not.

 

[VtypeV4]

Your torque wrench should be more than adequate, sounds like them pins bloody tight!

 

[stern-69]

I found the head bolts on both my heads VERY tight. I used a 1/2 socket wrench with a 6 point "impact type socket". I then put a 6" length of 1 1/2" black pipe on the rachet handle (what I call my "Super Johnson") and gave it a push .... they came out fine after the initial "SNAP" (probabaly lock-tighted in).



Getting the heads OFF is the hard part, they will be stuck good PLUS there are two large locating dowls (used for coolant or oil, cant remember which) that mean it has to come STRAIGHT off. I ended up having to use a hammer to "tap" in an "olfa" knife blade at the gasket point. After getting about 1/2 way around it made the ripping "hisssssss" noise as the gasket finnaly let go a bit, then they could be pulled off with a bit of wiggling.

 

[DanCX500]

Your torque wrench should be more than adequate, sounds like them pins bloody tight!

I have to disagree with the above statement..... I wouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar! It's only designed to take the torque that it puts out. I have seen them destroyed used in this manner.

 

[philbrewer]

Never use a torque wrench to remove any bolt.



Get some pipe and use that to break em.

 

[bandit]

Never use a torque wrench to remove any bolt.



Get some pipe and use that to break em.

as Dan and Phil said......never.

i had to put a new slave cylinder on a berlingo last night.to undo two of the wheel bolts took all my weight on a 6ft bar,its all to do with leverage

 

[VtypeV4]

Best tell Simon I never used his cheapy torque wrench as a breaker then.. Whoops!

 

[Shep]

as Dan and Phil said......never.

i had to put a new slave cylinder on a berlingo last night.to undo two of the wheel bolts took all my weight on a 6ft bar,its all to do with leverage

Had to do the same on my Citroen's wheel nuts

Bloody idiots with,"Windies"

PS

Also one of those crappy CX engines I had I had to use an extension bar to release the Cylinder head bolts.God knows what torque they has used.Then batter hell out of them with a Rubber camping mallet to get the heads to part

 

[King_Panther13]

Well I was wondering about the torque wrench because it says on the package "Left and right hand drive. Torque reading only works on right hand drive." Then says to never use it to tighten or loosen bolts. I was wondering if that was just a generic warning, or if they really put a left hand drive on the thing that literally couldn't be used.



Anyhow, still whacking at the head. I'm tempted to try FADM's idea of banging a knife or maybe a flathead screwdriver into the gasket with a hammer, but I'm afraid of destroying the seating surface for the gasket. Taking my lunch break now. Don't think I want to spend the whole day whacking on it since it's nice out.

 

[bandit]

Well I was wondering about the torque wrench because it says on the package "Left and right hand drive. Torque reading only works on right hand drive." Then says to never use it to tighten or loosen bolts. I was wondering if that was just a generic warning, or if they really put a left hand drive on the thing that literally couldn't be used.



Anyhow, still whacking at the head. I'm tempted to try FADM's idea of banging a knife or maybe a flathead screwdriver into the gasket with a hammer, but I'm afraid of destroying the seating surface for the gasket. Taking my lunch break now. Don't think I want to spend the whole day whacking on it since it's nice out.

some engines/motors have left hand threads for obvious reasons.thats why the wrench is reversable.



iv had to relieve many a head over the years,have you the ability to grind down a wood chisel to a very low angle?

see where part 18 is,they are holding through time your head on hard,tap and vibrate your ground down chisel in these areas,slowely and very gradually.i tell you it will just pop off.

 

[King_Panther13]

Bandit, I understand that it would be necessary in some cases to torque something with a lefthanded thread, but it says that the torque values only work when it's set to right handed drive o.0. Which means the left hand drive is effectively useless.



Thanks for that tip though, now I know where to bang! I have an old wooden wire brush that I was using as a chisel, but didn't know where I really should have been hitting. I'll get back to it.

 

[bandit]

Bandit, I understand that it would be necessary in some cases to torque something with a lefthanded thread, but it says that the torque values only work when it's set to right handed drive o.0. Which means the left hand drive is effectively useless.



Thanks for that tip though, now I know where to bang! I have an old wooden wire brush that I was using as a chisel, but didn't know where I really should have been hitting. I'll get back to it.

Cramer,thats one odd wrench,no worries,you get the picture.



with the head,you vibrate it off....tap tap tap in the right spots[highest resisance]dont worry it will flip.