[Shep]

If the engine's bottom end and pistons/compression are/were ok then don't touch them and also leave the gearbox alone and just do what you intend.



See this thread as well,



http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/126066/ShowPost.aspx



As a check also look at the Cam followers from down top and hopefully they have not been changed and fitted incorrectly.They can be fitted with their cup angles wrong presenting the wrong angle to the push-rods.This causes premature Cam shaft and cam follower wear.



Obviously take the front engine case off and check/service the oil pump chain and assembly and clean the sump area underneath.

 

[Shep]

Oil Usage:



The last work I did on this present engine was to fit new valve stem guides and seals and new valves.Quite an expensive job but had the money at the time.This helped reduce my oil usage however I also run my engines on Molyslip,



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOLYSLIP-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a122e984d



Which does not seem to have caught on in the US.I've been using it on older engines for over 30 years.After around 3,000 miles of use my compression is up and my oil usage down.It can take quite a few thousand miles to show any improvement but does help quite a bit.This is a case of the more miles I do the better the engine gets.



It's based on Molybdenum Disulphide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm



which is used elsewhere in the engine/bike as in Moly paste for running in Crank shafts and cam-shafts and Moly grease for drive boxes etc.It causes NO clutch slip.My engines are made of high mileage parts so any help I can give them,I do

 

[Shep]

It would do no harm AFAIK.



What mileage is on the FJ?



PS

Love those

 

[Shep]

As a rule-of-thumb you only need 10ml Molyslip per 100cc of engine size but for an initial top-up use double that.

 

[Shep]

Ok, so an intial top up of 240 ml then 120 ml from then on. How often tho? At oil change intervals?



Cheers for the info.

To answer both.Just add 120 ml for your FJ at oil changes after that initial 240 Ml and it's an engine additive so just stick it in the oil

 

[Shep]

as Dan and Phil said......never.

i had to put a new slave cylinder on a berlingo last night.to undo two of the wheel bolts took all my weight on a 6ft bar,its all to do with leverage

Had to do the same on my Citroen's wheel nuts

Bloody idiots with,"Windies"

PS

Also one of those crappy CX engines I had I had to use an extension bar to release the Cylinder head bolts.God knows what torque they has used.Then batter hell out of them with a Rubber camping mallet to get the heads to part

 

[Shep]

There are two locating dowels.Sometimes they stay in the heads,sometimes in the cylinder block,sometimes one in each.The small O-ring is from the Oil orifice.This is the small removable oil regulator spigot and the O-ring goes around it.When installed the fine tube of it goes into the cylinder block.



If you have removed the two 10mm M6 bolts from the front cylinder jackets to drain them there shouldn't be too much coolant about and of course replace them.I use a little thread-lock on them as they are low torque(6 to 9 Ftlbs).ALL head bolt holes MUST be cleaned to the bottom and double checked prior to re-assembly otherwise you will get head gasket failure down-the-road and of course the correct step cross tightening sequence of the head bolts.





Bookmark you bike from here,



http://www.donandroys.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1980&fveh=3399



It will act as an aid to what parts go where combined with the manual/s