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I'm unsure of the history of it, thus my want to replace the rings and etc. I've heard that checking compression should be done at WOT...with this engine being detached, does that mean I need to hook some carbs up to it, or is there a separate method to checking compression?



It does turn over just fine when jumping the starter motor, I don't hear anything out of the ordinary, but that's just turning over. I was told that merely inspecting the pistons and crankshaft will require me to replace the rings, which is why it's on my list.



I'll definitely look out for the cam followers, and thanks for that thread.



When I finally get around to working on this engine, I'll use this thread, and post lots of pics
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only one real/practical way to check comression.engine in turning over, warm and at full throttle[kill switch set to off].mmm.thats pretty deep going in to look at crank,pistons,bearings and rings.

good luck on that,if you feel its needed to be done
 

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I don't really want to do the rings and etc, but my uncle who'll be giving me assistance with the rebuild says that "I don't know a single person who has an out of frame engine, and doesn't change the rings while they're in there." He says that it shouldn't be too hard, and all I'll have to take into consideration is that I'll have to break the new rings in.



I figure that I have plenty of time, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal to do. Unless my current engine finally blows up. Then I really need to hurry this one haha.



Now, if I were to just ignore the rings and whatnot, what symptoms will appear if there is something wrong in the crank? Knocking, clicking, or something worse?
in my opinion,you and uncle are wading in too deep too quick.your rings and bottom end may be just fine.do a rear and top end rebuild,and see what you are dealing with then.

jmo


and it is odd,i do not know a single mechanic who would even think about replacing rings just because the engine happens to be on the bench.i certainly would not.




if you decide to go down that road.mm,i wish you guys good luck
 

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Yes. He's only ever worked on one water cooled bike, an older Goldwing, which he never pulled the engine out of. Him and his friends are big on KZs and the old Kawasaki triples, his main bike is a Z1. I'll mention it to him that the CX engine != his old Kaw engines then lol.



My current engine (the non-spare one, that is) seems to be using quite a bit of oil lately. I'll get some clutch slip, look at my dipstick, and the oil is right at add. I'll put in like maybe 1/4th of a court (enough to bring it up to the first diamond) and then maybe a week or so later the clutch will start slipping again and I'll check the oil, and it's back to add again!



No smoke noticeable from the pipes. Once I did see white smoke, but I think that that was from water. Haven't seen any since the one time.







Thank you! I'll add them to my list. I want to replace everything that can fail due to age or whatever.



I already have an e-fan that I'm going to probably stick on my current engine before even beginning to work on my spare engine. Though I am using the spare engine to fit it, so I don't waste an entire day trying to make it work while I can't go anywhere or something.











No offense taken. He's just trying to make sure I don't cut corners like I've been doing, and he knows very little about water cooled motorcycles. He does know that when I cut corners, usually my bike will end up stuck in his yard for several days until we think up a fix.



What you say makes a lot of sense, and makes me understand what's going through his head a little bit better. This'll make things a hell of a lot easier rebuilding the engine. I'm basically just doing a triple bypass+valve lap, and complete gasket/rubber bits replace.
a very wise decision,in my opinion.

here is a list of all the part numbers that you may need




http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/149387/ShowPost.aspx

hth
 

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Never use a torque wrench to remove any bolt.



Get some pipe and use that to break em.
as Dan and Phil said......never.




i had to put a new slave cylinder on a berlingo last night.to undo two of the wheel bolts took all my weight on a 6ft bar,its all to do with leverage
 

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Well I was wondering about the torque wrench because it says on the package "Left and right hand drive. Torque reading only works on right hand drive." Then says to never use it to tighten or loosen bolts. I was wondering if that was just a generic warning, or if they really put a left hand drive on the thing that literally couldn't be used.



Anyhow, still whacking at the head. I'm tempted to try FADM's idea of banging a knife or maybe a flathead screwdriver into the gasket with a hammer, but I'm afraid of destroying the seating surface for the gasket. Taking my lunch break now. Don't think I want to spend the whole day whacking on it since it's nice out.
some engines/motors have left hand threads for obvious reasons.thats why the wrench is reversable.



iv had to relieve many a head over the years,have you the ability to grind down a wood chisel to a very low angle?

see where part 18 is,they are holding through time your head on hard,tap and vibrate your ground down chisel in these areas,slowely and very gradually.i tell you it will just pop off.

 

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Bandit, I understand that it would be necessary in some cases to torque something with a lefthanded thread, but it says that the torque values only work when it's set to right handed drive o.0. Which means the left hand drive is effectively useless.



Thanks for that tip though, now I know where to bang! I have an old wooden wire brush that I was using as a chisel, but didn't know where I really should have been hitting. I'll get back to it.
Cramer,thats one odd wrench,no worries,you get the picture.



with the head,you vibrate it off....tap tap tap in the right spots[highest resisance]dont worry it will flip.
 

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lapping the valves is a pleasure.very easy to do,and quite satisfying.i would not pay 10 bucks for someone to do that for me.


my heads on my good running 82 were pretty nasty,but,they cleaned up fine.











good luck on the rebuild Cramer
 

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i think lapping the valves are one of the jobs.....you simply cant do wrong..they wont let you.Snr. Stern,i think the pices you quoted were not for lapping,maybe reseating or some other machine work
 
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