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I'm unsure of the history of it, thus my want to replace the rings and etc. I've heard that checking compression should be done at WOT...with this engine being detached, does that mean I need to hook some carbs up to it, or is there a separate method to checking compression?



It does turn over just fine when jumping the starter motor, I don't hear anything out of the ordinary, but that's just turning over. I was told that merely inspecting the pistons and crankshaft will require me to replace the rings, which is why it's on my list.



I'll definitely look out for the cam followers, and thanks for that thread.



When I finally get around to working on this engine, I'll use this thread, and post lots of pics
.




Well...thinking this over.....what does WOT give you? IMO you'd get the same airflow without carbs on.



I'd check the valve clearences and run a compression test on the engine. (to make sure valves are closing all of the way)



I have not had the bottom end apart on my bike so I do not know about it. (my engine's bottom end is untouched)



Worse case would be compression test comes out fine. Put the motor in the bike and find out it needs lower end work. IMO it's not that hard to drop the engine.



If you do end up doing the full overhaul, lots of pics please!
 

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I don't really want to do the rings and etc, but my uncle who'll be giving me assistance with the rebuild says that "I don't know a single person who has an out of frame engine, and doesn't change the rings while they're in there." He says that it shouldn't be too hard, and all I'll have to take into consideration is that I'll have to break the new rings in.



I figure that I have plenty of time, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal to do. Unless my current engine finally blows up. Then I really need to hurry this one haha.



Now, if I were to just ignore the rings and whatnot, what symptoms will appear if there is something wrong in the crank? Knocking, clicking, or something worse?




I'd look/listen for poor oil psi, and noise.



I wonder if your uncle is used to working on air cooled bikes? IMO they need to be overhauled sooner than a liquid cooled engine.



On my bike with 39,000 miles, I don't get any smoke on start up and it uses very little oil.
 

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OP



Are you using good quality 6 point sockets? They will help you in not rounding the heads of the bolts off.



Have you shown your uncle this thread?



Good luck!
 

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Your torque wrench should be more than adequate, sounds like them pins bloody tight!




I have to disagree with the above statement..... I wouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar! It's only designed to take the torque that it puts out. I have seen them destroyed used in this manner.
 
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