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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I removed the left valve cover and the timing inpsepction cap. Now i also removed the fan shroud to find that bolt to turn motor do i have to remove the radiator also. the book is not showing how i go about this if it does i am missing it thanks for any and all help
 

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I think you are loosening the inspection cover on the front. It looks just like the rear timing mark inspection cover. Remove it and under that is a 17mm nut on the end of the crankshaft. Turn this nut in a clockwise (tightening) direction. That will rotate the engine.



Make sure that you are at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke and the TDC mark on the flywheel is on the mark before you start adjusting the valves. TDC will occur twice on every revolution of the engine, but the compression stroke only happens once. You can also tell by the tappets all being loose at this point. You should be able to move them slightly, not much, but just a bit. Another way is to watch the action of the intake valves. They will open, then close on the compression stroke. As the valves close, watch for the TDC mark at the inspection hole. Do the left side first, (on your left as you are sitting on the bike), then turn the engine to where the right cylinder is at TDC for the right side. Cam chain adjustment is also done with the left cylinder at TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Blue Fox thanks so much now I start at the left is that left side i start with as if I am sitting on seat or left side first facining looking at the back of the bike from the fron bars left side first depends on where ya standing first time doing this so bear with me the left side of a motorvehicle engine would be passenger side of the car so how is it on the bike
 

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It's right and left as you are sitting on the bike, the inspection cover in the rear is on the right side, the coolant res. fill cap is on the left side. It's easy to get mixed up if you are like me and have trouble with right and left sometimes. Once you get the inspection cap off, make sure you change your socket to the 'tighten' setting as Blue stated, so you are turning the crank clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wow the PO before me or whoever worked on this bike last did not do something right as i check with the feeler gauges the left side is tight at tdc left compression stroke and the right side is loose hmmm we need to fix this,.
 

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wow the PO before me or whoever worked on this bike last did not do something right as i check with the feeler gauges the left side is tight at tdc left compression stroke and the right side is loose hmmm we need to fix this,.


Food for thought:



Even if I sold you one of my bikes I would tell you to do a general service check
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks everyone shep the link was awesome everything is adjusted i sued 0.004 for intake and 0.005 for exhaust and loosen the cam chain tension bolt till it stopped tapped the side off the engine and retightened it. The intake side on right hand motor was super tight before adjustment i could not slip the feeler gauge between the 2. maybe now that noise will be gone. will post when i have it back together and running..., thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok just got done warming and running engine at idle holy shit what a big difference and i thought the noises cleared up with fixing exhaust leaks but wow sounds awesome now, however as the fan spins does it or is it supposed to make noise? sound like a noise coming from front of engine any suggestions thanks for helping this was an awesome morning as the bike sounds real good to me now ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took her for a ride around the hood i dont hear metal rattling around anymore lmao. now i will have to check that fan it is 30 something yrs old unless it was ever replaced we shall see. things left 2 do is the mech seal as it still has a very slight drip from time to time, front fork seals should be here tomorrow and then up is rear shocks we will be in business after i get the windshiled does anyone have suggestions on where to buy i see jc whitney sells them from 89.00 to about 140.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think you are loosening the inspection cover on the front. It looks just like the rear timing mark inspection cover. Remove it and under that is a 17mm nut on the end of the crankshaft. Turn this nut in a clockwise (tightening) direction. That will rotate the engine.



Make sure that you are at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke and the TDC mark on the flywheel is on the mark before you start adjusting the valves. TDC will occur twice on every revolution of the engine, but the compression stroke only happens once. You can also tell by the tappets all being loose at this point. You should be able to move them slightly, not much, but just a bit. Another way is to watch the action of the intake valves. They will open, then close on the compression stroke. As the valves close, watch for the TDC mark at the inspection hole. Do the left side first, (on your left as you are sitting on the bike), then turn the engine to where the right cylinder is at TDC for the right side. Cam chain adjustment is also done with the left cylinder at TDC.




whoops bluefox missed the sitting on the bike part i feel like a dummy hahaha all done and good to go now lmao
 

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Before I buttoned her up, I would check that fan. Just unscrew the existing bolt in the center and thread in a M14x1.5 bolt about 2" long. Tighten the bolt and the fan should pop off. Examine the rear of the fan for cracks and looseness around the center hub. Replacement is the best idea if you find any major cracks. I have epoxied them with success so far, but it is chancy.



I had a CX that had a low rumble/noise at idle. It would go away above 3000 RPM. The fan was loose on the hub on that one. If these fans decide to come apart, you may be shopping for a radiator.
 

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