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The corner cracked off the side cover on my GL. Anybody have any experience with using epoxy or bondo to fix a side cover? Maybe Tiger Hair?
 

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The corner cracked off the side cover on my GL. Anybody have any experience with using epoxy or bondo to fix a side cover? Maybe Tiger Hair?
I had really good luck with ABS cement, available at the hardware store. I cleaned out the crack and removed the paint from both sides, and built up a nice layer on the inside. Hasn't cracked again since.
 

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I have repaired several and even constructed new corners using Ever-Fix epoxy. You can get it at most auto parts stores, altho they may have to order it. Comes in 2 pint cans that get mixed 50/50. If the corner is still there, some masking tape on the front side will keep the epoxy from the front. I usually scratch up the surface with sandpaper, maybe 80 grit, then mix up a very small amount. I use communion cups from our church, they are maybe a tablespoon size, and measure out one cup of each in a disposal cup. Paint the epoxy on the back of the cover with a acid brush or any small disposal brush, over the area you want to cover. I would probably extend the patch a inch or so around the break.



Then cut some squares of woven fiberglass cloth the size of the patch and stipple them into the epoxy. Do one layer at a time, maybe two or three layers. Orient the cover so the patch is at the lowest level. This epoxy will puddle, and won't set up for about 12 hours. But when it is set, you can't remove it.



If you need to add some pegs for the cover to fit into the grommets, I have some hourglass shaped brass fittings that work well. They are threaded on one end with 8-32 threads, so all you need to do is epoxy a 8-32 screw into the patch and then screw on the fitting. I have several hundred of these, so if anyone wants some, let me know.



It is a little trickier making a new area, but it can be done too. I use plumbers putty on the face of the cover to make a good seal, then form the shape I want in the putty and fill with epoxy and fiberglass. This usually takes several secession to fill all the holes and get the final shape correct.
 

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I think this is the stuff that a lot people use, Plastex
 

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If it's just a crack go to a plastics place and get a small container of Weld0On #4, a medium setting time plastic welding solvent.



I keep #3, 4 & 12 around because, unlike glue, it actually welds plastic back together again.
 

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Picked up a package of plastic welding rods at Harbor Freight. This are used with their plastic welder machine. If you look at it, a heat gun with a cone nozzle would also work. I picked up a vinyl repair kit to fix another ripped seat on the CB360. The kit came with a special electric solder pencil that has a flat plate the size of a quarter or half dollar. I might try the PP (poly-propylene) rods to fix the CB side covers (the P.O. had cut the bottoms off to get them off the bike. No reason too, as the would have come off easily anyway
)
 

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I use PlastiFix, which looks identical to the previous listing for Plastex. You can get it at www.Plasifix.com



If you put tape on the front carefully, cut a grove on the backside with a Dremel ball without going through to the front, then out the powder in the groove and add the catalyst, you should have a repair where you have to look really hard to see that it was ever broken to begin with.
 

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I use PlastiFix, which looks identical to the previous listing for Plastex. You can get it at www.Plasifix.com



If you put tape on the front carefully, cut a grove on the backside with a Dremel ball without going through to the front, then out the powder in the groove and add the catalyst, you should have a repair where you have to look really hard to see that it was ever broken to begin with.


And those Weld-On solvents are the basis for the Plastifix kits, you just add the powder that most plastics places will sell or evenj give you as sawdust left over from all the cutting they do.



The Weld-On numbers go on how quickly they dry

#3 is very fast

#4 is a bit slower giving you a little working time

#16 is definitely slower giving you a fair amount of working time.



They make quite a few other special glues/solvents but 3,4 & 16 are the most commonly used.
 

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Mine was cracked when I got it from the PO. I have some 3/16" hardware cloth and cut out a 2-1/2" square and formed it to fit in the area and then mixed up a big batch of 5 minute epoxy and used a toothpick to get the epoxy in the crack then epoxied the hardware cloth over the area with the crack and used a piece of tape to hold it in the shape while the stuff set up.



The next morning I put it back on the bike and it has not given me any problems.
 

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baught on ebay a side cover . even though it was sold with a broken corner the piece was there for repair. well after reading several ways to fix this ,,,, i decided to use the PVC and the mesh layer method . it works ,,,but next time i'll buy any other plastic repair kit......
 

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And those Weld-On solvents are the basis for the Plastifix kits, you just add the powder that most plastics places will sell or evenj give you as sawdust left over from all the cutting they do.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I had trouble finding this, and I want to be able to get to this info.



I've started using the solvent alone from my Plastifix kit on broken plastic (mostly toys), and it's the best glue I've ever found for most applications. Of course, soon I'll need to replace what I took from the kit. Where can I get Weld-On?





Thanks,



R
 

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