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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
81 gl500

air pods

straight thru 2" exhaust

jets 90/120 2 1/2 turns



reason i ask is when i start up it starts up fine but when i twist the throttle it stalls out. I don't see any smoke black or otherwise. i suspect i'm running a little rich from when i pulled my spark plugs earlier this week. i don't have any way of measuring air/fuel mix at home so i was going off of when the valve covers started to warm up. also i am not choking the bike when i start it. i have no cable for the choke and so far it starts without having to choke



am i correct in my rich condition assumption?

how long should it take for the engine to reach operating temperature?



also i can slowly turn the throttle and it will rev ok but a quick twist stalls it out. i suspect the combustion chamber is cold and cannot burn off the excess fuel i introduce with a quick twist, but i know very little about engine tuning.
 

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Have you tried turning in the idle mix screws some? You can always try that and see how your idle is effected. You may find it idles better and that bog is corrected.



My bike seems to get to operating temp after a few minutes of idling. When driving off right away it seems to take a couple miles for the needle to reach its normal mark.
 

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Lowlife,





that is a symptom of a lean mixture. Cold engines need a richer mixture to run, hence the choke.





What you describe sound pretty normal to me. These bikes need the choke a little to start, even in pretty warm weather. I choked mine even in the summer (~ 60-70 degrees in the morning)and shut it off after about 20 seconds.
 

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i have to agree on a lean mix if you start it up and let it idle for a few minutes (5-10) while your getting your gear on and the sort it should be good to go when you are ready and i would get a choke cable asap



very rarely do i use my choke cable what i do it twist the throttle a few times before i go and start it and it fires first time every time and i let it idle while i put on my helmet and gloves and then i walk it to the gate and then outside of the gate and then take off and it doesnt bog down or anything i would try that and see if it works for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
arizona's "pretty warm" weather is about 105. i didn't have the bike assembled enough to try it then now its in the 60-70 degree weather. what i am having trouble figuring out is if lean or rich? the lack of black smoke suggests lean but the plug condition suggests rich. i got the screws set to 2 1/2 out like i've read the start point is, should i go in or out? how will i know when i hit the good spot?
 

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take them out maybe a 1/4 of a turn at a time (i think) i know some one else will chime in here
 

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take them out maybe a 1/4 of a turn at a time (i think) i know some one else will chime in here
The problem is that a cold motor needs a lot of fuel (rich) to run correctly. That same motor will run like crap once it warms up if you don't give it a leaner mixture. That is why we have a choke... Tune it when it warm so that it performs correctly, and get a choke cable to give it the rich mixture when it is cold. Otherwise, it may start when it is cold, but never run correctly once it warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok. what is considered "warmed up"? temperture gauge has been disabled for fan switch placement. the valve covers get warm but never hot. should i just let it idle til it starts to run like crap then adjust from there? choke cable will be installed tonight.
 

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arizona's "pretty warm" weather is about 105. i didn't have the bike assembled enough to try it then now its in the 60-70 degree weather. what i am having trouble figuring out is if lean or rich? the lack of black smoke suggests lean but the plug condition suggests rich. i got the screws set to 2 1/2 out like i've read the start point is, should i go in or out? how will i know when i hit the good spot?




Plugs don't lie. As Toe suggested let the bike warm up then monkey with the mixture screws. Turn them a litle at a time. You will hear the idle improve or get worse which will tell you which way you need to go. I'd start by turning them in a bit.
 

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I've read a lot on here about pods giving people trouble with their motors.. Hopefully you will get lucky with your tuning.
 

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Start it with choke, and let it idle for a couple minutes.



Once it's started I will adjust the choke so I have a fast idle. A couple minutes later I have my gear on and I hop on and go. The cable will gradually push itself in while I ride. by the time I get to the end of the road (less than a minute) I just push it the rest of the way in. And this is in <40* But on 60* afternoons I have to do the same thing.
 

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Turning the mixture screws in would lean it down, make adjustments in 1/8 turn increments.

The engine will be properly warmed up when you can not comfortably put your hand on the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Turning the mixture screws in would lean it down, make adjustments in 1/8 turn increments.

The engine will be properly warmed up when you can not comfortably put your hand on the valve cover.


thank you. i will try that tonight. i normally work on the bike on sunday but halloween threw a wrench in that.
 

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Assuming plugs/plug caps/coils are all good then next is the carbs.My present CX starts without any choke on-the-button,no cranking,down to 10 Deg C/50 F so far and has full power delivery within around 250 yards from cold.

My other CX needs the carbs doing again as good as the above as it needs choke and takes around 1/4 to half of a mile to get full power.



HTH
 

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I use the same procedure as jasonh... Start, withing 20 seconds it is down to less than half choke, which gives it a high idle. Then, at the next stop, the choke goes off.



Always worked for me.
 

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It's a mis-conception that engines need 10-15 minutes to warm up. My car manual actually spells it out. It says that it is better to warm up the engine and transmission at the same time, and the best way to do that is a brief warm up, then start driving. For my car - that means to me, "as long as it takes to scrape clear my windshield of snow/ice (not defrost!!) - then off you go". It may not be an 80 degree 'comfort zone' inside yet, but that's enough warm-up for the engine.



You mentioned you don't have a Choke Cable. That's why it's there. You need the choke on the CX to get it to start some times. A little rich on start-up is a good thing. Once running, do the rest of the 'warm-up' on the road.

just my 2cents.
 

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Unless it's been fully warmed up and I haven't had it off long I always need to give it some choke to start with, takes about 30 seconds or so until it's smoothing out enough to back off the choke and get going. Once Ive driven (or idled) about another 60 seconds it doesn't need the choke at all anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i think i have it set up correctly now. runs like a top. now all i have is my brakes and horn then i'm done 100% then its time for shakedown
 

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sweet man sounds like a road trip is in order then......
 
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