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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a stock bike 1980 CX, i want to Cafe the bike. I took out the air box and am Re Jetting along wit some K&N Pods. But how the hell do i handle all this wiring. Its a little over whelming. My goal is to have a pretty clean side profile. And im worried i dont have enough space on the frame to hide the Components. Is there things i can eliminate or bipass?
 

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I know the feeling...just take your time to plan what you want to move, including battery and starter solenoid. There are modern h solutions to simplify the wiring such as the M-unit but alternatively you can simply move components and shorten the existing loom or replace with new wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have a link to something modern? I’m going to start shortening and relocating. But I like having a backup plan
 

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I'm in the same boat. My loom looks like it's been through a crusher so the whole lots got to go. Most of the electrics have already been cafe raced by an idiot... How it managed to work for the 2 miles to the mot station I'll never know. There are some useful videos on YouTube but basically it's a case of keeping it simple. .. One step at a time. Lights are going to be straight forward so don't sweat them.... Same as indicators just watch out for LEDS that draw so little power the indicator unit won't work ( BMW oil head problem) I'm attacking mine by getting the start and charge circuits done. Once their in place and fixed the other bits can squeeze in the corners. Don't over think it, get a circuit diagram and use a marker to follow one wire at a time..... I'm saying this as much to convince myself as you... All best.
 

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I'm in the same boat. My loom looks like it's been through a crusher so the whole lots got to go. Most of the electrics have already been cafe raced by an idiot... How it managed to work for the 2 miles to the mot station I'll never know. There are some useful videos on YouTube but basically it's a case of keeping it simple. .. One step at a time. Lights are going to be straight forward so don't sweat them.... Same as indicators just watch out for LEDS that draw so little power the indicator unit won't work ( BMW oil head problem) I'm attacking mine by getting the start and charge circuits done. Once their in place and fixed the other bits can squeeze in the corners. Don't over think it, get a circuit diagram and use a marker to follow one wire at a time..... I'm saying this as much to convince myself as you... All best.
Thanks for the encouragement my friend! Good luck on your bike as well!
 

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Whatever you do don't tie the stuff out of sight with electric tape or glue it with silicone and make sure that parts that need air movement around them for cooling aren't relocated to somewhere where they can overheat.

Keeping in mind that it is a legal requirement for vehicles to retain all lighting functions that they came from the factory with and that things like the ignition really do need all those wires in order to work, about the only thing you can actually eliminate is the parking light circuit (needed in the UK and a few other parts of the world where lights are required if parking on unlit roads but not here).
Re LED signals: Many of us have changed to ones that won't make the original flasher work. You just change to an LED compatible flasher unit.

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year to your signature so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
(Dolysprint: This ^ means you too but make sure you add the actual model year, NOT year first registered as your UK paperwork will indicate)

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so before even considering any modifications it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

The best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.
 
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