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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A bit off topic but still on topic.



I went out to drive my truck today just to find it leaking antifreeze. Not fast.



If you recall back in october I had this same problem and was going to replace the waterpump. But it turned out the water pump was fine. The hoses were actually leaking under pressure at the ends.



I pulled off the hoses and cleaned up the connections. I replaced all the pinch type clamps with standard screwdriver adjustable hose clamps.



Ok back to the truck. The clamps are as tight as they can go without breaking but at about 30psi they form a slow leak.





Is there a better/stronger/tighter clamp out there?



The hose that is leaking is also new and seems to be a tight and clean fit. It's the same size as the one before it.
 

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You didn't specify at what fitting it was leaking at, but my money {what little there is of it), would bet on a crack in the point where the offending hose connects. You may not see it, but I'd suggest removing the hose & making a very close inspection. In my mechanical experience, if you tighten a clamp good & snug, and it still leaks, you have another problem. Good luck, Dan
 

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might sound like alot of work but see if your water pump has a stamp line or weld line or seam what have you on the neck if so i always used a dremel to smooth it down if not use a touch of blue rtv silicone sealant around the neck b4 you put on the hose slip it on and tighten it let i dry b4 you drive it to secure adhesion. this is my first bike but i've built alot of cars i even went to wyo tech beleive it or not and i work at a die casting plant go figure lol hope it helps youve helped me a ton thnx
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Funny. I ment to put this in the general section and somehow it ended up here.



It's not just one spot but 3.



Heater core to engine on both sides and waterpump to heater core for the other. The heater core to engine hose was the one that was replaced.



Larry convinced me to go borrow a coolant pressure tester from Autozone so that's how I know that the clamps are failing around 30psi. And that's where it sits after a good run.



All of them drip at different rates but it's not much fluid and only when the pressure is built up. Hell the truck only gets 7 miles a day on weekdays. Not much other driving for it.
 

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Euro or German style clamps are the best, they don't have cheap worm gears and won't cut the hose like cheapO perforated clamps will. They're usually called embossed clamps, and are smooth on the inside:







They are a bit more expensive than regular clamps, but not that much more.



Just make sure you're getting the "real" thing from a reliable source, there are similar clamps coming out of China. The problem with the Chinese clamps is that the screw or worm gear is not stainless, but some cheap Britshitium like metal. The gear rusts over time and makes it a one use proposition. The Made In China ones will also strip easily.



The legit, all stainless clamps should last for the lifetime of the vehicle.
 

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A bit off topic but still on topic.



I went out to drive my truck today just to find it leaking antifreeze. Not fast.



If you recall back in october I had this same problem and was going to replace the waterpump. But it turned out the water pump was fine. The hoses were actually leaking under pressure at the ends.



I pulled off the hoses and cleaned up the connections. I replaced all the pinch type clamps with standard screwdriver adjustable hose clamps.



Ok back to the truck. The clamps are as tight as they can go without breaking but at about 30psi they form a slow leak.





Is there a better/stronger/tighter clamp out there?



The hose that is leaking is also new and seems to be a tight and clean fit. It's the same size as the one before it.
Hose clamps are not round and unless there is sufficient hose material they will not seal fully. In this case there seems to be more going on then just a clamp issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well seeing as I think I paid $2 or so for a set of 4 hose clamps at autozone then I think I will replace the clamps first.



Two of the connections have new rubber and were completely clean when I installed the hose. Prior to that there was deformation to the previous hose.
 

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If your cooling system is operating at 30 PSI, I would suggest replacing the radiator cap. Shouldn't be higher than about 16-19 PSI. The cap should vent off addirional pressure.
 

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If your cooling system is operating at 30 PSI, I would suggest replacing the radiator cap. Shouldn't be higher than about 16-19 PSI. The cap should vent off addirional pressure.


agreed you have a bad radiator cap

That can blow a seam on your radiator end tank which can be $$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I guess I'll pick up a new cap and see where that gets me. I picked up some new clamps but haven't installed them.



I've been debating changing the thermostat too. But it's a pain in the ass. You have to remove the alternator and alternator bracket to access the area to change it. Trucks a 93 so it deserves some love.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok the cap has been replaced with a 13 pound cap with release lever. I topped off the coolant in the reservoir and we will just have to see if it does the job.



The new cap is a pain in the ass to get on and off.
 

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Just because there was a leak when tested to 30lbs, doesn't mean that the system was reaching that.



You could have used the same pressure tester to check the cap. Radiator caps fail by not holding enough pressure, it's nothing but a spring and a gasket, springs don't get tighter with age and use, they get looser. Only way to increase a caps pressure is to replace the spring with a spring from a cap made for a longer neck, used to do that back in the day for rally's up Mt. Washington to compensate for the altitude. The screw on types used in the Euro boxes would get a solid cap and an ajustable blow off valve fitted.
 
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