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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This morning I went out and took the horn off to clean it up and polish it and I must say it looks great !




HOWEVER when I put it back on I crossed the wires up and when I turned the key it blew a fuse....had no horn, blinkers, brake light etc either. SO I used the spare fuse that was there in the fuse box area atop the triple tree. Put the new fuse in and WALLAH all the lights worked again perfectly.....HOWEVER now the horn just BLARES on as soon as I turn the key ! It will NOT shut the hell off !
The horn button does nothing....the horn just blares when the key is ON !



You have 2 wires going into the horn, one in front of the other. Now when I pull the back wire off and turn the key the horn STILL blares....when I take the front wire off it stops blaring.



Obviously I messed up something when I had the wires crossed initially...so what do you think I did and what might remedy the situation ? Is it the horn itself I messed up by crossing the wires or did I blow out the horn button/switch on the bars by doing this ?



My guess is that I messed up the switch on the bars as power is now always going to the horn but the switch won't cut it off.



I feel stupid as hell for crossing those wires...that's so NOT like me.




Your thoughts on what I did ? What to maybe look for possibly in the control housing on the bars when looking at the horn switch ??
 

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What did you use to polish the horn?



I wonder if you used steel wool if some of the residue from it may have got in between contacts in the horn and is causing it to short.



edit; a multimeter should tell if it is the switch or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I used steel wool.



However the fact that I had the wires crossed initially and blew the fuse has to mean something ? Could THAT in itself damage a horn switch ?



EDIT: Also the fact that when I remove one wire from the horn it STILL blares when I turn the key on ??
 

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I don't know if it would damage the switch,,it really shouldn't because the contacts should not have been touching and the fuse should blow before any real damage happens.



If there were bits of the steel wool between the power contact and the body of the horn it could be causing the problem,,,it seems weird though
 

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On your bike the horn always has battery voltage applied to it when the ignition switch is on. The horn switch completes the electrical path to ground.



There is probably a filament of steel wool between one of the horn terminals and the grounded horn body. The symptoms point to this.



Try thoroughly cleaning the area around the horn terminals.
 

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I agree with daveF if ya have compressed air blow out the horns had a simular issue with my truck with a electric air horn when I stripped a wire for some fog lights a piece of copper broke off laid againt the terminals and caused havoc just might be the case for you also Rickburt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On your bike the horn always has battery voltage applied to it when the ignition switch is on. The horn switch completes the electrical path to ground.



There is probably a filament of steel wool between one of the horn terminals and the grounded horn body. The symptoms point to this.



Try thoroughly cleaning the area around the horn terminals.


Dave F:



You were not exactly right with what you said BUT what you said DID help me figure it out:



YOU said:

"On your bike the horn always has battery voltage applied to it when the ignition switch is on. The horn switch completes the electrical path to ground."



Reading that made me think, hmm, so IF the horn switch/button completes the "path to ground" then something is creating that "path to ground" WITHOUT the switch being depressed.



So I went back out to the garage and unmounted the horn. With the horn just hanging there and NOT mounted to the frame it worked just FINE with the button....on/off perfectly....which basically gave away and told me that answer to the issue.



Well Dave, it ends up that I had one of those rubber washers at the bottom mount back on in the wrong place which was allowing the horn mounting to always be touching the frame hence completing that "path to ground" that you spoke of. I put the rubber washers in the RIGHT place, basically insulating the horn from the frame like they were SUPPOSED to do and WALLAH !



Damn I'm all high and mighty now.....I now have a nice shiney new looking horn and since it's NOW mounted right it works just as good.
 

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Rick,



I think you need to ride up for the Slimey Crud Ride the first Sunday in May and we will help you get all of that dirty again!
 

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Dave F:



You were not exactly right with what you said BUT what you said DID help me figure it out:



YOU said:

"On your bike the horn always has battery voltage applied to it when the ignition switch is on. The horn switch completes the electrical path to ground."



Reading that made me think, hmm, so IF the horn switch/button completes the "path to ground" then something is creating that "path to ground" WITHOUT the switch being depressed.



So I went back out to the garage and unmounted the horn. With the horn just hanging there and NOT mounted to the frame it worked just FINE with the button....on/off perfectly....which basically gave away and told me that answer to the issue.



Well Dave, it ends up that I had one of those rubber washers at the bottom mount back on in the wrong place which was allowing the horn mounting to always be touching the frame hence completing that "path to ground" that you spoke of. I put the rubber washers in the RIGHT place, basically insulating the horn from the frame like they were SUPPOSED to do and WALLAH !



Damn I'm all high and mighty now.....I now have a nice shiney new looking horn and since it's NOW mounted right it works just as good.
I have a relay that is wired in, the ground side of the relay goes to the horn button, reason is because I have a high current draw air horn.
 

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I have a relay that is wired in, the ground side of the relay goes to the horn button, reason is because I have a high current draw air horn.


Thought about that but I found a really loud replacement locally, blast you into the sky for $10, Still like to have a train horn though but where to mount it?
 

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Thought about that but I found a really loud replacement locally, blast you into the sky for $10, Still like to have a train horn though but where to mount it?
Harbor Freight has an air horn that is/was on sale. Though it doesn't say it anywhere it is good in that it comes with a relay so you won't fry your horn button/switch.
 

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Thought about that but I found a really loud replacement locally, blast you into the sky for $10, Still like to have a train horn though but where to mount it?
Harbor Freight has an air horn that is/was on sale. Though it doesn't say it anywhere, it is a good one for bikes in that it comes with a relay so you won't fry your horn button/switch.

Horn Link
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rick,



I think you need to ride up for the Slimey Crud Ride the first Sunday in May and we will help you get all of that dirty again!


Dave (Wisconsin) it's funny, I was thinking of YOU when I was polishing the aluminum ends of my starter at 5 am this morning, thinking, "he'd love this".... lmao




And to think, you want me to come up there and get slime all over them now ??




Oh Larry, are you proud of me ?
The black part shines up REAL NICE with a product called "Black Back" !



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Question for anyone about the pic I posted above.



I've never taken a starter apart before so I'm not sure of it's insides. I was wondering what would happen if I took that screw out right in the middle of the starter in the black painted area to polish it...would stuff fall apart inside or can I take that screw out w/out any harm and put it back in ?
 

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..."On your bike the horn always has battery voltage applied to it when the ignition switch is on. The horn switch completes the electrical path to ground."



Reading that made me think, hmm, so IF the horn switch/button completes the "path to ground" then something is creating that "path to ground" WITHOUT the switch being depressed...


Nice application of logic. Glad you got it sorted out.
 

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Rick, that screw holds the field coils to the inside of the case. They may not move much if you took the screw out, then again they might. You would have to use a impact driver to get it started. I would just paint it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rick, that screw holds the field coils to the inside of the case. They may not move much if you took the screw out, then again they might. You would have to use a impact driver to get it started. I would just paint it in place.


Hmmm I think FIRST I'll try a nice fresh SHARPIE.
 

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Hmmm I think FIRST I'll try a nice fresh SHARPIE.
I would use a wide magic marker ... it works good in other places too.



Now, what you really need to do is make the inside of the starter as clean as the outside and your battery won't have to breath hard starting your bike.
 

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This would have been a great thing to do when the starter was already removed for polishing. But no steel wool inside the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This would have been a great thing to do when the starter was already removed for polishing. But no steel wool inside the starter.


Agreed, but as some say, if it aint broke don't pull it all apart and fix it.




However the only maintenance/upgrade/refurbish types of things I haven't done yet to this bike that a lot (not all) of people do is yes, clean out the inside of the starter (but it works great now) and modernize the main fuse.



I do have plans to do the main fuse....I will need SOME reason to take a whole Saturday and go visit Roger this spring, so I'm saving that task ! LMAO
 
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