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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

This is my first forum post so forgive me if I make any rookie mistakes. I am also new to the world of motorcycles. I recently acquired an 1981 Honda Silverwing rocking the GL500. It was running great until recently. I will tell you every detail I know just in case something stands out. It was running great until a few weekends ago. I changed the battery and also attempted to change the oil. I drained the oil, but I wasn't able to free the bolt for the oil filter. It stripped and rounded off. I went ahead and put new synthetic oil in just to simply get me to a shop to free the stripped bolt. So there is new synthetic oil with an old (probably conventional) oil filter. I include this info just in case it pertains to my actual problem.

Anyway...I took it to a shop who told me I'd save money if I ordered the bolt myself and brought it back. I agreed, so drove it home to do so. It was about a 30 min drive back home. It ran great all the way to the shop and almost all the way home. About 25 min in to the ride home, as I was accelerating, the engine began to lose power as I used the throttle and started to slow down and continued to lose power. I got it off the road and before I even stopped, the engine cut off. I let it cool off for about 10 minutes. I was then able to start it back up and get it home. As I pulled back on to my road (another 3 or 4 min down the road) it lost power again and died as I slowed to a stop. My dad (before he gave it to me) told me he thought it could be overheating. The temp gauge would apparently go to red rather quickly. The temp gauge stopped working for me so it always stays on cold.

Here is the question. Anyone think they can speak into this issue? Does it sound like an overheating problem? I have taken it out a few times and the same issue will happen in just a few minutes of riding. Could it be something with the gas system? Shops are reluctant to look at it because of the age so I want to see if I can narrow the problem down.

Thanks for your help!
 

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These bikes run a wet clutch using the engine oil and were designed to run using mineral oil. Clutch slip could be part of your problem if using modern synth
 
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One possibility is a plugged vent in the gas cap. This would prevent free flow of fuel.
Do look into the temperature gauge, probably the most important gauge on the bike.
 

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Check to see if your radiator is full,gas filter is not clogged.Getting a good spark could involve a lot of issues..Check your petcock for flow,if it's a vacuum one vacuum line making good connection and not cracked, the diaphram in the petcock could be leaking vacuum and not opening all the time, little or no gas flow so you lose power or stop.I have replaced mine three times ,last one with a regular petcock.
 

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You can use an old oil filter strap wrench to help loosen the bolt along with a pair of vice grips to remove old bolt. not like you are going to reuse it. change to std. non-syn oil. As noted above address temp gauge. MurrayF has new 7v regulators if you need one. Follow all suggestions above regarding coolant and fuel flow.
See my sig line to down load a free FSM for your bike. Most shops will not work on them any longer or charge you huge $$ to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the response. I heard another motorcycle mechanic tell me this over the phone. Is there a literal vent on the gas cap itself that I can check? Should I check all the fuel lines?
 

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If the clutch is not slipping, you do not need to drain the oil.
Your issue may be either a clogged tank cap vent, failing stator, or overheating.
Since it will restart after sitting a while, that does seem to rule out overheating.
A simple test is to run it until it wants to stall again and open the gas cap. If it starts running better you have found the problem and that can be fixed by clearing the vent hole.
If it is the stator, you can test it warm and cold and compare the readings to those listed in the FSM and the test links in the WIKI.
 

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Curious. I've used modern synthetic motorcycle oil on my wet clutches and haven't had any issues. I believe it has more zinc to prevent clutch slip. Anyone know of any negatives to using synthetic motorcycle oil?
 

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I just tried a test where I started it up, let it idle for 3 or 4 min, took the gas cap completely off, and ran it down the road. Within 2 min, as I accelerated, it bogged down until I pulled into a parking lot and it shut off. I know its not the gas cap vent. I don't know anything about the strator, but I can look through the manuals and see what I find.

Thanks again!
 

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One possibility is a plugged vent in the gas cap. This would prevent free flow of fuel.
Do look into the temperature gauge, probably the most important gauge on the bike.
This just happened to me and cost me the sale of my bike. First time it did it happened to be as the buyer was driving off. Talked with Murray and he mentioned slightly unscrewing the gas cap when it starts to bog, presto, problem identified. Found an extra cap and it's back to normal but the buyer stepped away from the deal.
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