I hope that you are not running on the "very light colored chocolate milk ". Assuming that you have put in fresh oil has it become "very light colored chocolate milk " again?
Hello, Wisconsin!
‘82 GL500 Interstate, second owner (technically third, but the 2nd guy had it for only a few weeks before giving it up), 6500 miles. Has sat for the past 15ish years.
Currently replacing all fluids and lube, and figuring out what needs repair or replacement.
There’s a fair amount coolant or water in the oil (looks like very light colored chocolate milk). Hoping it’s a plugged weep vent. Also the starter catches only 25% of the time, so likely gummed up springs or a bad clutch. Seems common enough, but am hoping not to drop the motor until I ride it for a while and figure out what I want to make of it.
I have the Rejuve Moto 2-2 headers on the way, and will likely pick up either 12" or 18" Cone Engineering silencers. Would it be worth the money for the Murray's carbs, or could I get away with rejetting the stock carbs?
She runs fairly well once she finally turns over and catches. Can’t wait to get her properly dialed in and roadworthy again. Likely will be taking off an parting out the front fairing, side bags, passenger seat and rear tail if anyone is interested.
Looking forward to all the great knowledge and guidance a group like this can provide and at some point paying it back.
![Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Vehicle]()
Currently replacing all fluids and lube, and figuring out what needs repair or replacement.
There’s a fair amount coolant or water in the oil (looks like very light colored chocolate milk). Hoping it’s a plugged weep vent. Also the starter catches only 25% of the time, so likely gummed up springs or a bad clutch. Seems common enough, but am hoping not to drop the motor until I ride it for a while and figure out what I want to make of it.
I have the Rejuve Moto 2-2 headers on the way, and will likely pick up either 12" or 18" Cone Engineering silencers. Would it be worth the money for the Murray's carbs, or could I get away with rejetting the stock carbs?
She runs fairly well once she finally turns over and catches. Can’t wait to get her properly dialed in and roadworthy again. Likely will be taking off an parting out the front fairing, side bags, passenger seat and rear tail if anyone is interested.
Looking forward to all the great knowledge and guidance a group like this can provide and at some point paying it back.
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Do you have an old bicycle spoke? Spray from WD40 or similar.
What's the best way to clean the Weep Hole ?
How does the Weep Hole work anyway ?? it can't really be just a hole though right... does it have a "valve" in there ? Mine has something in there whether it's good or bad
www.cx500forum.com
Cleaning out the weep hole - Honda CX500, GL500, CX650, GL650
Wondering where the weep hole is and how to clean it on your Honda CX500, GL500, CX650 or GL650? Find out here!
motofaction.org
A blocked weep hole won't cause coolant to get into the oil unless the water pump's mechanical seal is leaking too. There is an oil seal where the camshaft exits the rear of the crankcase and an air space that the weep hole connects to between that oil seal and the mechanical seal. The idea is that if either the oil seal or the mechanical seal fails what leaks past it will exit via the weep hole instead of trying to get past the other seal
motofaction.org
Unfortunately the most common cause of "chocolate milk" oil is a blown head gasket (first they blow between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket and soon after between the cooling jacket and one of the oil passages between the head and block).
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it has been sitting that long you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know that they are over 5 years old and should be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet).
It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so they should be at the top of your to do list. I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).
And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
The best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.
Oil seal, mechanical seal and weep hole infopic - MotoFaction
Looking for more information about the weep hole, oil seal and mechanical seal on your Honda CX500, GL500, CX650 or GL650? We have made an infopic showing the relationship between those items. Check it out here!
motofaction.org
Unfortunately the most common cause of "chocolate milk" oil is a blown head gasket (first they blow between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket and soon after between the cooling jacket and one of the oil passages between the head and block).
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it has been sitting that long you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know that they are over 5 years old and should be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet).
It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so they should be at the top of your to do list. I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).
And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
The best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
