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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys! Have been following posts and using your expertise for a while now but new member officially.

Located in Indianapolis. Recently picked up a 78’ CX500 project.

Short background on myself. Not a mechanic but always have wrenched one my own cars. Not an electrician but can find my way around a multimeter and do some soldering here and there.

Short background on the new CX project. It has been slightly modified by PO’s into a cafe style.

Mods:
-Gauges replaced with speedo only unit
-Front forks lowered
-New integrated turn signal headlamp and taillight
-Shortened exhaust/new mufflers
-Cafe style fork mount handlebars
-Replaced kill switch to aftermarket
-What looks to be a handmade seat (although most wiring remains stock underneath, minus headlamp/taillight wiring and kill switch)
-No name pods
-Was jetted up to 90/120 now back down to 78/115
-Battery relocated and new ignition switch installed
-Frame is 78’ engine is from 80’ (I believe)
-Frame # CX5002025247
-Engine # PC01E2124682

I am sure there is probably a bit more here and there but that’s everything that I can think of off the top of my head.

Think I have a CDI issue but I’ll save that for a post in the technical forum.

I’ll get some pictures added and get my info edited in my signature.
 

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Welcome to the Forum!
I noticed that in your first pic, the choke cable clamp is on the wrong side of the bracket. It won't properly align with the receiver from that side.

Randall
 

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Also, be sure that your "no name pods" aren't blocking the atmospheric vents of the carbs. They're above the intake port on each carb.
That might be causing what appears to be a CDI failure.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, be sure that your "no name pods" aren't blocking the atmospheric vents of the carbs. They're above the intake port on each carb.
That might be causing what appears to be a CDI failure.

Randall
Hey Randall,

Thanks so much for the input, I will reverse the choke cable clamp and check the vents. Hopefully, it's that easy of a fix.

Would you mind checking out my post in the technical forum? It's a little more information on the apparent CDI issue?

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, be sure that your "no name pods" aren't blocking the atmospheric vents of the carbs. They're above the intake port on each carb.
That might be causing what appears to be a CDI failure.

Randall
Would you be able to tell from this picture if the vents are blocked?


ED4550B4-641F-4174-808B-79D523D997DF.jpeg FEF28505-A5D8-4D10-B9B1-140FB1B055D5.jpeg
 

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No, but looking at the pods in your photo of disassembled carbs, I suspect that there are. The first pic in your most recent post does not show vent in question. It's inside the pod.
There are threads on the forum that describe the conflict and the mods required.


Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay... Went ahead and removed the interior flange and gorilla glued them back onto the filter. Seems to run a little smoother at idle, took her out and still have the bogging down/rev limiting issue around 4k rpm.

With all the other testing, I feel like this narrows it down to a faulty CDI unit.

If there's anyone in the Indianapolis area that knows a deal about this I'd love to hear from you and possibly do a meetup.

Thanks for the link reclined (y)

Randall thanks for the advice as well, even if it didn't fix the problem I'm sure it will help with smooth running down the line. Hope you're staying safe in the Twin Cities.
 

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Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake line (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

Your bike has been modified by someone who may or may not have known what he was doing so I highly recommend going over everything that was changed and making sure the changes have been done in ways that won't impair the way it works. Off the top of my head, I would want to move the regulator/rectifier to a better location where more air can flow past it (those fins are for air cooling, not decoration) and I'd add a grommet where the cable passes through the front of the ammo box so the edges don't cut into the insulation. I'm sure there are other things I didn't notice...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake line (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

Your bike has been modified by someone who may or may not have known what he was doing so I highly recommend going over everything that was changed and making sure the changes have been done in ways that won't impair the way it works. Off the top of my head, I would want to move the regulator/rectifier to a better location where more air can flow past it (those fins are for air cooling, not decoration) and I'd add a grommet where the cable passes through the front of the ammo box so the edges don't cut into the insulation. I'm sure there are other things I didn't notice...
Thanks so much Sidecar!

I will definitely move the regulator to a better airflow spot! Most of the underpan will be changing and will be removing the ammo box as well.

I’ll keep everyone updated, thanks for the welcome!
 
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