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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

As some of you may know I had an issue a while back with my cx500 intermittently dying whilst running at higher rpm, this was put down to a dodgy stator. First thing I did was replace the CDI with an Ignitech unit, which means there were a variety of stators at my disposal now... I had a browse on eBay and bought myself one of these...

s-l1600.jpg

I have however noticed that it only has three wires coming out of it whereas the one I (believe I) need has two additional ones, going to the neutral light mount under the engine. I believe that I have bought myself the incorrect model.. Is this the case and would I therefore need to try and get a refund OR is there a workaround?

Thanks!
 

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that is a g8 and will work fine BUT if you are using a ignitect you must also put you 2 pickups back

if usung a rae san all you need is the g8

on tha g8 you will need to tie the pigtail back and grind your rear cover slightly where the stator mounts
 

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I think that's a G8 and works with the ignitech. If I'm wrong I'm sure you will know shortly from another member.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks very much! A couple more of things bother me though. The first one is the connection to the switch on the bottom of the engine.. can this just be run straight up to the connector under my seat rather than going through the stator now?
Also I have noticed that MOST stators I have seen have their coils coated in some sort of resin (see below) whereas this one's are bare and exposed... Thanks in advance!!

s-l500.jpg

This is the model I believe I should have purchased....
 

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PyroVee,
I just installed a similar G8 stator into my 79 custom. As murray mentioned you need to retain the R/L high/low speed pickups. Carefully remove the pick-ups with Blue/Blue-red, Orange/Orange-red wires and green wire from the old stator wire-bundle and reinstall them (if already removed) follow the (below) diagram when re-wiring the main ignition terminal connector.

The green wire (pin 5) only needs to be connected to a good ground location.

I should add to test pins 1,2,4 and 6 per the stator check before and after removal and install and again after all is installed into the rear cover and after rear cover is put back on those old wires can be brittle.

IGNITEC.jpg
 

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And test EVERYTHING at each step. Those left and right pulser wires are usually crusty after living for 40 years in intermittently hot oil and other contaminants and will snap easily.

Don't leave it until you are trying to start the bike before finding this out.

And when refitting the rear cover fit 2 of the large bolts either side, nip them up and check the shifting. Something else better to find you have an issue sooner than later.
 

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Until recently there was a photographic step by step record from wiring stripping to finished article of the stator on the wiki. However photobucket have removed the pictures. I used it to strip out the redundant wiring & resleeve the new arrangement. As mentioned above, when you bolt the new stator in position, you will need to check at the back of the stator where the mounting posts are, that there is clearance between the stator windings & the mounting posts. More than likely there will not be clearance. The remedy is to dremel the outside of the mounting post slightly to give the required clearance. There are pics available on the forum.
 

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Jesse's browser extension fixes most PB images http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-discussion/88177-fix-broken-photobucket-images-browser-extension.html

Some coils are potted in a thick layer of epoxy and others have a thin layer of lacquer. Some of the lacquered ones are dipped so that they are completely coated while others seem to have it applied only where actually needed (I suspect yours may be like that). You can usually see the lacquer if you look closely where wires cross each other.

As has already been mentioned, the wire for the neutral light is not actually connected to the stator but just runs through the same plastic sleeve as the wires from the windings. You remove the one from your old one and either put it through the sleeve on the new stator or run it separately (my preference - it isn't quite as tidy looking but it is easier to replace if that is ever necessary).

BTW: When you mount the new stator take note of how close the wires of the windings are to the boss that it mounts to. If they are rubbing it can cause problems down the road so if necessary remove a small amount of the boss with a file or motor tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So my stator has arrived and ody enough it is the same one as the second image I supplied!! Score!! Does this still mean I will need to grind down part of the fitting? I am a bit confused with regard to what to do here and I don't want to unnecessarily remove parts. Thanks!!
 

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you will still need to do some mods

do you have skype? if you do we could talk and i could tell you what you need to do while you are looking at it

then you could do it and a write up to help others ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Murray,

Unfortunately I don't have Skype as such, however I am willing to do a photographic progress report on the forum (or over private messages with yourself) with contributed advice if that works? Following that I would happily turn it into a write up! :)
 

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if you have a computer set up a skype id its not hard then is can just show you and make sure you have it right

and if not it will be easier for me to just do while i have it videoed then have jc do a write up
 
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