[JonnyBurgers]

Hi all, so I'm attempting to replace the handlebar controls on my '80 CX500 Custom, but running into a couple issues with the aftermarket replacement unit I got. Any ideas on fixes for these, or would getting a set of CB/CBR controls give me a better starting point?

• Kill switch working, but reversed
• Starter switch only has 2 wires instead of the 3 wires in the factory controls, and these simply connect together when the switch is pressed, rather than disconnect ground from one of the other wires, as the stock control appears to do
• Turn signal switch doesn't allow for front running lights to work

 

[CXPHREAK]

The kill can be operated through a relay. Use the power from the killswitch to activate the relay to ground the ignition to kill. Or alternatively the grounding in this instance.

The third start button wire is for lights on. {switch interrupts lights when start button is pushed}. If this isn't a legal requirement you can ignore it and wire the lights through the light switch that your new switchgear presumably has.

Wire the running lights direct to the switched black.

 

[JonnyBurgers]

The kill can be operated through a relay. Use the power from the killswitch to activate the relay to ground the ignition to kill. Or alternatively the grounding in this instance.

The third start button wire is for lights on. {switch interrupts lights when start button is pushed}. If this isn't a legal requirement you can ignore it and wire the lights through the light switch that your new switchgear presumably has.

Wire the running lights direct to the switched black.

Thanks so much for your detailed reply; this is great info!

The starter switch on the new controls connects both leads together when pressed, whereas in the stock controls, 2 of the leads are normally connected, and switch press disconnects them, according to my continuity testing. Is there some way to reverse the new switch?

If I wire the running lights directly to switched power, won't that make the signals flash bright-dim-bright rather than bright-off-bright? Or is that not a big deal?

 

[CXPHREAK]

The USA interrupter switch has three wires.

A power supply.

Output to the lights.

Output to the starter solenoid.

The switch is normally closed for the lights.

It is normally open for the starter.

When the button is pressed the light circuit opens and the starter circuit closes.

This prevents trying to start the engine with the lights on.

Wire the power supply to the starter switch and its output to the bikes yellow/red solenoid wire.

As for the light wire - the new controls have a light switch? If so, that's where the lighting wire goes. That switch will also need a power supply. Take it from the one already going to the starter switch.

 

[JonnyBurgers]

The USA interrupter switch has three wires.

A power supply.

Output to the lights.

Output to the starter solenoid.

The switch is normally closed for the lights.

It is normally open for the starter.

When the button is pressed the light circuit opens and the starter circuit closes.

This prevents trying to start the engine with the lights on.

Wire the power supply to the starter switch and its output to the bikes yellow/red solenoid wire.

As for the light wire - the new controls have a light switch? If so, that's where the lighting wire goes. That switch will also need a power supply. Take it from the one already going to the starter switch.

You're awesome!! Thanks to your help, I've got everything working on the right side now. On to the left side...

 

[Sidecar Bob]

Yes, connecting the marker lights to the black wire would make the turn signals flash bright/dim/bright/dim and yes, that is not advisable (not to mention that there must be a 4" spacing between a turn signal and any other light that is on when the signal is flashing). If you are already customizing things why not change to LED turn signals and add a set of small running lights in another location.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

 

[JonnyBurgers]

Thanks much, Sidecar Bob!!

Thoughts on wiring a relay into the running lights which opens the circuit when a turn signal is activated, effectively doing the same job of the factory signal switch?

 

[Sidecar Bob]

That would be difficult to accomplish. The problem I see is that the flasher relay is connected between power and the turn signal switch, so that the power at the switch turns on when the signal is lit and off when the signal is off so that any relay connected to it would turn on & off with the flashes.
And no, it wouldn't be a good idea to have both the bright and dim filaments of the bulb on at the same time.

Of course, if you use separate signals and markers and the distance is OK the markers can stay on all the time (this is the approach I took).

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

You should be able to make it work using two relays, one NO and one NC, on a common trigger circuit.

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

You can get a single relay that will do both. They are common and readily available. Most of the relays I have do this and I just don’t use the NC part.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

You should be able to make it work using two relays, one NO and one NC, on a common trigger circuit.

How would that work? One or the other would always be on and the goal is to turn the marker light off.

The only way I can see to make it work would be to send power directly to the switch and use separate flashers after the switch for left and right so that the output of the switch is steady instead of pulsed.

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

I think he meant a pair of relays for the left and another pair for the right. There are better options out there. My bmw r100rt has the runnin’ light conversion on the rear. I also have the rare red lenses on the signals so it’s even legal. I would think that conversion kit would work on any 12 volt bike that isn’t computer controlled.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

If he meant one each for left and right, why would one be NO and the other NC?

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

If he meant one each for left and right, why would one be NO and the other NC?

A pair for each. NC for the marker light and NO for the signal and both triggered by the turn signal.

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

A pair for each. NC for the marker light and NO for the signal and both triggered by the turn signal.

I will add that although this would work, I don’t think it’s a good option.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

But the voltage coming from the turn signal switch is pulsing (ON-off-ON-off) so triggering the relay from it wouldn't work.

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

Why not? The on off on off is precisely what is wanted here.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

What he wants to do is turn the marker light off while the signal is flashing. Tell me how a relay that is triggered when the signal lights up and not triggered between flashes is going to do that.

 

[DouginEasternWashington]

The marker light is hooked up to NC so when the signal is energized this relay switches to open which turns it off. The signal is hooked up to a NO relay and it closed when the signal is energized which turns the light on. Yes, a clunky way, but it will work and is not complicated.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

Right That would work IF the output of the turn signal switch was steady DC.

BUT the flasher is between the power and the turn signal switch so the output of the turn signal switch is pulsing DC (12V-0V-12V-0V - this is why the signal flashes). When the switch was turned on (left or right) its output would be 12V and it would turn the relay on but when the switch's output drops to 0V half a second or so later the relay would turn off.