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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting closer and closer to getting this thing fired up.

This weekend, gonna tackle the valve adjustments and plugs. While there, I wanted to hand crank the engine. Been sitting unused about 25yrs. When I got it, the guy said he gave it a quick hand-crank and was ok, just hoping he squirted a bit of oil in there first.

Which leads me to my question...

Take the covers off, remove the plugs, then squirt some oil inside. Should I use the RotellaT? or something thinner? plus, when you add a small bit of oil, wouldn't it just lubricate the bottom edge not the entire circumference? I have a can of fogging spray, would that be better, get's onto all edges?

Then I guess remove that cap at the front with the Honda logo on it, stick a socket wrench on, and carefully/slowly turn counter-clockwise?
 

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The cap you remove doesn't have a Honda logo. It is the same as the timing inspection cap on the rear cover. The cap at the front is under the radiator about half way between the clutch cover;which has a Honda logo; and the oil filter. Use a 17mm six point socket. Turn in a clockwise direction as you face the front of the engine; the same direction you turn the engine when adjusting the valves or the timing chain tension.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Oh, I thought it was behind this (not my engine, just grabbed off Google). Figured behind that would be where it was. Was looking through the manual but wasn't fully sure about direction. So standing fromt of the bike facing the engine, clockwise. Well, that tutorial I read may need a correction then. :D

So (in the photo) it's the spot directly below the bottom blade.

How about lubrication? Just a squirt in each, done... or should I be looking at something else since again, gravity will likely pool the little bit of oil in one spot and miss the rest of the wall.

CX0001.jpg
 
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Just for clarity, both the crank cap and the crank bolt are 17mm. Counter clockwise to remove the cap, and clockwise to roll the engine with the crank bolt.

Joel in the Couve
 

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My advice would be to add a little fogging oil in the cylinder when its at the bottom of the stroke on each cylinder, a few rotations, then when the motor is ready to be started and full of oil, pull the caps off the plugs and crank the motor to build up oil pressure before it starts. This way all the bearings that need oil won't be dry when starting
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I have the old oil out, new filter and from the forum it was recommended to use the RotellaT, so put that in. Bought a set of feelers this week so figured time to tackle the engine. I knew to add oil and to hand crank, but, always figured the oil would go to one side and the rest of the cylinder would just be dry and get damaged. I used the fogging in my gas tank after I de-rusted the inside (flash rust only, otherwise tank is near mint minus patina). Still 1/3 can left so, will use that.

How much resistance should I expect? Should it be easy and smooth? or at what point should I ease up and realize their is a problem?

I'm at least a month from firing it up.... doing the small stuff now, cleaned the carbs, new MC/Clutch, front brake rebuilt, fluids all changed etc... waiting for a new brake line, and rubber carb plugs (stupid eBay China)... next pay day I'll finally get a battery and order the muffler pipes from Murray.

Plan is a cafe racer/bobber... but not modifying anything until it's running. But, when buying new stuff I'm buying stuff that will be used for the cafe racer, like, those small lithium batteries. Regular one will work right now, but don't see why I'd pay for it and pay for another in the winter when I change stuff around. That type of deal. So, when it's running, it's going to look a little ghetto/frankenstein. :D

Lots of small stuff to do first though... just trying to avoid rushing in and trying to start it and burn something out.
 

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Resistance will increase when the valves start to open,with plugs out you can see the piston at TDC with the valves closed. Every other stroke is TDC .
 

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I would check the cam chain if I were you. Use a dental mirror to look at the cam chain adjuster through the timing inspection port. Then with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke for the left cylinder loosen the adjuster fastener a turn or so and give it a lite rap with a hammer. Tighten the adjuster fastener and do the dental mirror inspection again. Check the Factory Service Manual for a better description of the process. :cool:
 
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