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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I tried to address some whining noises by lubricating cables and greasing the speedometer gear. I then wanted to grease the front wheel bearings but noticed that both sides of the wheel use rubber dust seals over the bearings. I didn’t have any replacement seals so I didn’t pry them loose. Can these seals be reused once they are pried out? Also, I don’t think the bearings would have come out easily even if I had gotten the dust seals off.Any ideas for removing, greasing and replacing these bearings? Thanks.
 

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I don't think they were really designed to be regreased.



The bearings are standard and dirt cheap, someone will suppply a link or two in time.

You can probably even buy them locally at a bearing supply house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think they were really designed to be regreased.



The bearings are standard and dirt cheap, someone will suppply a link or two in time.

You can probably even buy them locally at a bearing supply house.


I found the link to the bearings, but I'm still not sure whether I can re-use the dust seals that must be removed in order to get to the bearings. Also, I'm not sure how to remove and replace the bearings. I have an idea on how to tap them in per the online manual, but that's about it. Thanks.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Ideally you would press the bearings in but who has a press in their home shop, let alone one deep enough to do wheel bearings? Most of us drive them in with some sort of mallet and drift.



My preference is to use the 1/2" drive socket that's outside diameter is as close to the OD of the bearing as possible without going over with a 6" extension put into it the wrong way (so that it goes into the end the nut normally would) as a driver. If the hole is clean (I usually give it a quick scrub with a Scotchbrite) and you apply a small amount of oil or grease it should drive in easily. If it tilts a bit and won't go in move the centre of the driver to the edge that's high and carefully tap on it until it levels out then move the driver back to the centre and continue until the bearing is fully seated.



Removing the seals and re-lubing the bearings isn't recommended because they never seal quite the same afterwards. That said, I have done it in a pinch (needed to drive it to work the next day) but I ordered new bearings to put in at the next opportunity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think there is a little confusion here. My front wheel bearings are not RS(Rubber Sealed)as discussed in this post by Shep:



http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/to...p__2831__hl__+grease++bearings__fromsearch__1.



Chapter 13 p.6 of the online manual http://drop.io/CX500_GL500 shows my setup ('79 CX500C), with bearings and a separate dust cap on both sides of the wheel. Also, chapter 2 p.4 shows the various lubrication points which includes the wheel bearings.



If I ever do get my dust seals/bearings out, I would love to move over to the rubber sealed bearings which I believe are shown here:



http://cgi.ebay.com/2-6302-2RS-6302-RS-6302RS-15-X-42-X-13-NEW-/270542125239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0



Thanks again
 

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Yours are the old type.RS 6302 will go straight in.They don't need a special press but you may need a special tool or make one to remove the locking ring,



Number 8 on here,



http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500a-1980england_model16465/partslist/F13-1.html



The RS 6302 fit front and back on all CX/GL500 models AFAIK.They are so cheap it's not worth greasing old ones if you don't know their age.



I recently replaced all four on my main CX for less than a tenner.



HTH
 

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I didn't know that early CXs had bearings with separate seals. You learn something old every day (but its new to you).



Many Honda wheels have similar locking rings and a tool for removing them can be made by grinding away the edges of a suitably sized socket to leave 4 pins (or welding pins onto a socket if you are better at welding than grinding). It is possible to remove the ring by placing one end of a drift in one of the notches and tapping it with a hammer but it usually damages the soft aluminum ring.



They usually lock the threads by staking them with a punch in 2 places. You should drill out these places (a 1/8" bit will do and 1/8" deep is usually enough). If you put some silicone on the threads on re-assembly it will seal the threads against corroding moisture and prevent the ring from backing out as effectively as staking but you will be able to remove it later on without drilling.
 

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If you dont want to remove the rubber dust seal... you could always go to the auto parts store and get a needle point grease nozzle... they are used for piercing any rubber seal to insert grease. Like doing sealed balljoints in your car... i use one quite alot... or just replace them ... Good Riding Mike
 

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If you go with grease-less bearings will the dust caps still fit? I wonder if the rubber on rubber could wear prematurely. Unless I knew otherwise I'd pull it apart and replace the old greased bearings as stated since they are so inexpensive then put the new dust caps on and call it well enough as it's been since '79.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm almost certain that on both sides of the wheel there is a gap between the dust/oil seals and the bearings (for sure there is a gap on the speedo gear side) so there should be clearance between the seals and the bearings. i.e. no rubber-to-rubber contact between the seals and the bearings should you use the rubber sealed bearings. What I'm not sure of is the fortitude or strength of the bearing under the load of carrying a motorcycle. The RS 6302s may fit, but will they handle the weight? The original Japanese made bearings made in the 70s could be more durable than the RS 6302s. I don't really know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wrote this question to one of the vendors on Ebay selling the 6302: “Is it OK to use the 6302-2RS as wheel bearings for a motorcycle?”



Response: “If it fits it would not be a problem, but you should use the Premium Bearing. Cheap fake premium bearings should not be used. RBI who is our manufacture is the supplier for several OEM motorcycle manufactures.”



Who is selling the “cheap fake premium bearings”? How can I be sure that the responding vendo/salesperson is not? Does s/he really know? Also, most of the ebay auctions selling these bearings (one for as little as $1.86) indicate that such bearings are suitable for washing machines, HVAC applications, power tools, etc. I never saw wheel bearings listed as an application. Until I do....I wish everybody safe riding (which is why I raise the issue) and I’m glad the bearings are working for those who are using them. However, given the critical nature of the part, I have changed my mind and decided to simply grease my original bearings every 10K miles or so.
 

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I can't Google the phone book for "Southern Illinois" but if you're near a major city they will have a bearing supplier for the multitude of industry that's up there. You take that number, and perhaps a sample, and they'll sell you good bearings for next to nothing.



http://www.timken.com/en-us/about/N...nessCampaignAgainstProductCounterfeiting.aspx



What will they counterfeit next? It's like a game to them, I bought some watch batteries cheap off of ebay that only last about a month.



Whenever I need a bearing at work, or a pillow block, sheave pulley, belt or whatever thingy I usually go to a local supplier or WW Grainger, guess I've been lucky not trying to save a few cents.



Shoot, they even used these on skateboards:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=6302+bearing&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
 

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Just buy a brand name, like SKF, NTN, Timken etc. Ball bearings are all the same, whether rubber shielded or not. One just requires less maintenance. 6302 will fit. Usually about $5 bucks each. The premium ones have "apparently" a higher RPM limit. Nothing to worry about on a front wheel. Outer "race" of bearing should be a press in fit to wheel hub, as suggested, use a socket of almost the same size to tap them in. Don't tap on the inner race. (This will make the "balls" damage the inner rolling surfaces.)



These comments are general information, not for use by the under achiever, or anybody with questionable heritage.
 

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I think there is a little confusion here. My front wheel bearings are not RS(Rubber Sealed)as discussed in this post by Shep:

Grease.

Chapter 13 p.6 of the online manual Cloud Storage shows my setup ('79 CX500C), with bearings and a separate dust cap on both sides of the wheel. Also, chapter 2 p.4 shows the various lubrication points which includes the wheel bearings.

If I ever do get my dust seals/bearings out, I would love to move over to the rubber sealed bearings which I believe are shown here:

2 6302 2RS 6302 RS 6302RS 15 x 42 x 13 New | eBay

Thanks again

I know I'm reviving an old thread, sorry. I have the same question for my 1979 CX500.
I have the front wheel off and am taking a stab at the bearings (rear wheel will follow). This is the first time I've ever done bearings on a motorcycle. My concern is the "Dust Seal" as it is labelled on 13-6 of the FSM will be damaged on removal... It's not coming out nicely so I figure I'll have to destroy it to get it out. New RS6302 bearings are sealed but do not come with this extra dust seal. OPs link for replacement dust seals is now dead.

What will happen if I destroy the original and then have no replacement? I expect junk would get in there and foul up the area. And it may even serve as a soft space for the speedo unit. I'm not sure.


 

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you can actually buy complete bearing/seal kits per wheel from all balls (or all balls powersports supplier on ebay) or another supplier. I'll be working on doing this for my front as well very soon if you saw my thread. I accidentally ordered the set for the rear, however I know the bearings are the same between the wheels. So it's just a matter of seeing if the seals that are coming with the kit will work or not.
 
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