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I really miss not having the old posts, but oh well. I'm pretty sure that I saw the post somewhere there. But what kind of grease do we use on our bikes? Is there a type that can be used for anything? I'm going to change out my brakes, front and rear, so I figured it would be a good opportunity to grease the final drive splines and shaft.

I also saw I needed to grease the pivot points in the rear brake. Is the grease here any different since it is in the brake housing? Looking forward to the responses.
 

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I really miss not having the old posts, but oh well. I'm pretty sure that I saw the post somewhere there. But what kind of grease do we use on our bikes? Is there a type that can be used for anything? I'm going to change out my brakes, front and rear, so I figured it would be a good opportunity to grease the final drive splines and shaft.

I also saw I needed to grease the pivot points in the rear brake. Is the grease here any different since it is in the brake housing? Looking forward to the responses.


Go with Moly 60 paste on the final drive splines and shaft, it sticks, and is expensive but worth it.

As far as pivot points I use synthetic red auto grease and in the final drive 75-90W synthetic oil.



Rick
 

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ok dont get me started on grease. it is really a compatability issue that is your biggest concern. there are all kinds of charts out there. if you do not know and there is no recomendation OEM then i would go with a lithium based grease. in fact Popular Mechanics has an article about it in the sept issue. if you put 2 together that dont mix they can run all the oil out and then you are doing a teardown and redo. the only reason i feel on this issue is at work i am in charge of 130 DC motors and they switched to polorex from a schafers grease and pretty much ruined all my motor bearings!!!
 

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I use Moly grease on drive splines/joints and in the grease zerk at the rear.I use copper grease/anti-seize on all nuts/bolts refit or ACF50 to make future servicing easy but use thread-lock on dry cleaned nuts that are important like the Cam-chain Top Drive gear(As per manual) and on the water pump impeller nut and the oil pump chain small gear locking nut.

Most wheel bearings on these bikes are RS(Rubber Sealed) and not meant to be service but if you shop around they are so cheap to replace it's not worth trying to service them.



http://cgi.ebay.com/2-6302-2RS-6302-RS-6302RS-15-X-42-X-13-NEW-/270542125239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0



Note:Some people will say that Molygrease dries out but they forget that Molybdenum Disulphide itself is a dry lubricant(Used in Industrial bearings/pumps as a dry lubricant in many instances) that adheres to metal and still works even if dry and if you are servicing correctly will never be left un-replaced that long anyway.





HTH
 

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I use Moly grease on drive splines/joints and in the grease zerk at the rear.I use copper grease/anti-seize on all nuts/bolts refit or ACF50 to make future servicing easy but use thread-lock on dry cleaned nuts that are important like the Cam-chain Top Drive gear(As per manual) and on the water pump impeller nut and the oil pump chain small gear locking nut.

Most wheel bearings on these bikes are RS(Rubber Sealed) and not meant to be service but if you shop around they are so cheap to replace it's not worth trying to service them.



http://cgi.ebay.com/2-6302-2RS-6302-RS-6302RS-15-X-42-X-13-NEW-/270542125239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0



Note:Some people will say that Molygrease dries out but they forget that Molybdenum Disulphide itself is a dry lubricant(Used in Industrial bearings/pumps as a dry lubricant in many instances) that adheres to metal and still works even if dry and if you are servicing correctly will never be left un-replaced that long anyway.





HTH
Moly 60 is the recommended and preferred grease for splines. BMW riders have been using it for years.
 
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