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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i took bike for a ride this morning, after cleaning the vent hole in the filler cap, i noticed that i have used about 1.5 gallons of gas in 25 miles of test drives. wow so back to the theory I rode the bike with chock on choke off at lights so she did not consantly rev, she ran great, not perfect but she doesnt spit, fart & studder anymore so i am thinking she has been dumping way to much gas and not enough air ? however i think something is blocked. I may have larry do the carbs for me for i dont really have the tools to do it and i would not be able to balance them afterwards. what do you guys think i would definitly say its not the stator failing.
 

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It does sound carb related, Jay. You had to use the choke for normal riding? That would explain at least part of the high fuel consumption. Have you checked your air filter? A clogged filter can cause some mileage issues. And the float levels too. They need to be right at 15.5mm.



About sending your carbs to Larry for a rebuild. He certainly does a great job on them, but for the expense of him doing them, you could purchase his book, a ultrasonic cleaner, a Morgan Carbtune, and all the tools you would need. I am not trying to cut Larry out of a job, but the satisfaction of doing it yourself is sometimes worth it.



We and Larry too will be around to watch over your shoulder if you decide to try this. The more you learn about these bikes, the better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If i could find someone in the Mechanicsburg PA area willing to help that would be a blessing. will try just taking air filter out temporary and trying it without choke on again thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Blue fox your most likely correct i worked on all my own vehicles all my life and only bring it in when needed when all else fails lol. I do enjoy doing things on my own It makes ya feel proud, now about the morgan carbtune will have to investigate that. thanks again guys well off to remove filter and double check it i looked quick the other day its isnt brand new but dont look that bad but looks can be a bugger
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok so something told me to pull the spark plus wires while the bike sat at an idle, ok so the right side pulled considerable drop to almost stalling, left side not much difference in the idle very little,does this give any clues ? bad coil maybe ? I refuse to give up !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok the spark tester out. right side looks good and strong while cranking left side weak while cranking not as bright as right side right plug looks sooty right side looks normal. hmmmm bad coil ?
 

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It could possibly be the coil. More likely would be a bad plug or plug cap. The plug caps can be disassembled and worked on. The caps unscrew from the HT wire and then you can use a slotted screwdriver to reach in where the plug rests and remove a slotted fitting. Below the fitting will be a resistor, a spring and a rod. If the resistor has turned to dust, (and this isn't uncommon), a longer single rod can be fashioned from a brass, aluminum or copper rod and replace the original rod plus the length of the resistor. You can also just cut a rod the length of the old resistor and use that. Make sure there isn't any corrosion on the parts, even the screw type deal that screws into the HT wire and put it back together.



About the plug, there is a current post on here about a new plug that only lasted for several minutes. So, just because they are new, doesn't mean they are good.



Depending on the length of your HT wire, you may be able to switch the input leads to your coils and switch the plug caps to the other side. If the problem moves with the switch, at least you know it is probably electrical in nature. That would narrow it down to plugs, caps, wire, coils, CDI, and pulsar coils. Still a bit of detective work there, but maybe you don't need to go quite that far.
 

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ok so something told me to pull the spark plus wires while the bike sat at an idle, ok so the right side pulled considerable drop to almost stalling, left side not much difference in the idle very little,does this give any clues ? bad coil maybe ? I refuse to give up !!!
Don't pull the cap when running unless the wire is grounded through a spark plug. You can leave the plug in the engine if you wish, but ground the wire through another plug or you can do other damage to the electrical system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so how do i check the coils can i do this with an ohm meter Dave i put a spark tester between the plug cap and the exhaust pipe and left side very weak right side good and strong even when i pulled plug and grounded against metal barely saw a spark left side right side was muck snappier
 

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Ok so how do i check the coils can i do this with an ohm meter Dave i put a spark tester between the plug cap and the exhaust pipe and left side very weak right side good and strong even when i pulled plug and grounded against metal barely saw a spark left side right side was muck snappier


I think you're on to something with the plug caps. Before you test the coils, unscrew the plug caps from the wires and switch them. If your problem continues to be on the left then you can rule out the plug cap. Next, I would switch the wires at the coils and do the same thing, then if you continue to have issues I would check the coils with the same test.



Also, check your plugs. I'm guessing your left side plug is fouled but you can run some sandpaper through the gap and switch those too. After the battery, you pretty much have two of everything. Makes it easier to diagnose.



John
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok repaired the cap plugs ohms showing higher on one then the other also switched the wires around for the coils at the harness so as to switch the left to the right just checked the ohms and still the left coil no reading... So if my thinking is correct maybe i should just get 2 new coils 15$ a piece and then take it from there. what do you guys think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Updated now i still have one question when checking the wires to stator the green to white is still reading low at 311 someone here said it should be 386 - 4and change can this be an issue with the coils or a seperate one figured i would ask thanks everyone. if so should i just get the ignitek igni and some new coils i am thinking if the coil is dead fix that first no? just a thought i dont wanna get things i dont need at this time
 
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