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Discussion Starter #141
never refer to a lady (your bike)as "chubby"

you will rue the day bad ju ju

imo
But Murray, she IS chubby....that tank, short, thick legs (USD forks), and look at those big feet! I mean it in a good way, though! Ha!
 

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Hi gedenke, could you please post a picture of your electronics tray please. I am also making one and i am very interested.
Thanks
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Perfect
Do yoy have enough clearance for the rear wheel?
Plenty. I simply welded on a thin steel plate to the bottom edge of the frame. Plus, the rear fender I'm using goes all the way down to the swing arm.
 

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What is that rear fender off of? Looks good.

Is the clutch actually not disengaging, or is it just sticking? Pretty common to see them hang and act like they don't work, but they pop loose when you click it into gear with the engine running. As simple as the actuator is, I don't see how the actuator couldn't be pushing on the pressure plate unless something was cracked or broken..
 

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Discussion Starter #147
What is that rear fender off of? Looks good.
Rear fender is a universal plastic one for MX bikes...UFO brand I think. As for all the scratches, I'll try to polish em out. If that doesn't work, I'll Cerakote it with the frame.

Is the clutch actually not disengaging, or is it just sticking? Pretty common to see them hang and act like they don't work, but they pop loose when you click it into gear with the engine running. As simple as the actuator is, I don't see how the actuator couldn't be pushing on the pressure plate unless something was cracked or broken..
Talking with a friend who has built several CBs...he thought that maybe I never had a problem to begin with. All my troubleshooting was done with the bike on the center stand, rear wheel off the ground. He said that these old Hondas can feel like the clutch is stuck, but with the weight of the bike on the rear wheel, will actually operate fine. I'm going to finish rigging up the new clutch cable when I get home, put the bike down on the ground, and see if that's what I've got. I'll post an update soon...

Either way I have new clutch plates now! Should be good to go for a while.
 

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Rear fender is a universal plastic one for MX bikes...UFO brand I think. As for all the scratches, I'll try to polish em out. If that doesn't work, I'll Cerakote it with the frame.

Talking with a friend who has built several CBs...he thought that maybe I never had a problem to begin with. All my troubleshooting was done with the bike on the center stand, rear wheel off the ground. He said that these old Hondas can feel like the clutch is stuck, but with the weight of the bike on the rear wheel, will actually operate fine. I'm going to finish rigging up the new clutch cable when I get home, put the bike down on the ground, and see if that's what I've got. I'll post an update soon...

Either way I have new clutch plates now! Should be good to go for a while.
Okay, cool thanks for the info.

My question was kind of leading to that you didn't have a problem to begin with. I'd say adjust the lever to get the appropriate free play at the lever, then put it on a solid stand or the centerstand and start it in neutral. pull the clutch in and put it in gear, and if that doesn't free up the clutch you should be able to step on the rear brake to get it to free up. Obviously, be very careful running on the center stand and such since things can run away pretty quickly.

Or you can leave it on the ground, start in neutral, and see if you can pop it into first. It will often stall the engine on the first try but will free the clutch up in the process, and then the clutch will work normally on the second try. I have to do this almost every time I ride my old TY350, since it tends to sit for a month or two at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
My question was kind of leading to that you didn't have a problem to begin with. I'd say adjust the lever to get the appropriate free play at the lever, then put it on a solid stand or the centerstand and start it in neutral. pull the clutch in and put it in gear, and if that doesn't free up the clutch you should be able to step on the rear brake to get it to free up. Obviously, be very careful running on the center stand and such since things can run away pretty quickly.

Or you can leave it on the ground, start in neutral, and see if you can pop it into first. It will often stall the engine on the first try but will free the clutch up in the process, and then the clutch will work normally on the second try. I have to do this almost every time I ride my old TY350, since it tends to sit for a month or two at a time.
Exactly what my friend was sayin'. Thanks for the helpful comment though...I'm a rookie at building bikes, and I'm learning as I go!
 

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It looks nice in the pictures, does not look like semi-gloss though it does have a nice sheen. Wonder how would VHT flat black compare. I'm getting ready to paint my engine, so good to know approximate amount of paint I should get. Debating between flat and satin. Have been trying to find comparison of these two VHT paints on the internet, but nobody has done it.
How about primer?
Right on University ave in berkeley coming up from the freeway is a very small paint shop that sell SEM paints (years ahead in quality of anything else) and they come on a whole gamut of greys as well as "black's" & "white's" or the can mix you (match with a gun sensor) any color you can bring them..
 

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Due for a progress report...been a while.

The damaged Rae-San hall unit replacement parts came in and I got those installed and timed correctly (forgot to take a pic). This time I was extra careful not to cross any wires! Engine is all buttoned up and temporarily installed on the bike. As are the headers, exhaust, seat, tank, etc. I'm really digging the way the headers/mufflers are looking, but I'll have to relocate the pillion pegs if I mount them up-swept like this.

I'll do the rest of my planned mods, figure out the lights and wiring, and fire it up and get it running (fingers crossed). I'll take everything all apart again once all the welding and fabbing is complete, then it's off to get the frame painted. Got a lot of work to do before I get to that point, but it's nice to see some visual progress! (I'm going to make some custom aluminum side covers, so you can see the cardboard mock-up in the pic)



FWI: Taper handlebars, specially the old Easton E-70 protaper bars, Made by easton Aluminum for Answer, a.k.a Tucker rocky) have excellent harmonic vibration absorption, the newer chinese ones are not even close but they still pretty good..

then it get the time for a real fitting let me know and I give you some pointers (masters in ergonomics and work in the industry for the last 20 years using it)
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Great looking bike! I am curious where you got your seat from? Really looks comfy and fits the bike perfect in my eyes!
Thank you!!

The seat came from Texavina, out of Vietnam. I had reservations about ordering from them, but the guy was great to deal with. He even did some custom mods for me (I wanted it a little thicker) at no extra charge. Shipping was about three weeks or so, and all hardware was included.

As for comfy, well it’s a bit on the firm side, but I’m pretty happy with it. I just won’t be riding it across the country! I’m sure it’ll soften up with some use.

https://texavina.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #160
After a long hiatus, I finally got around to working on the bike.
I blasted and painted the forward engine mount and fan shroud, and got the new fan installed.

Also finished up the clutch cable. As to the "issues" I was having with disengagement, or lack thereof...I believe that as some have said, I may not have had an issue after all. I've got the new cable in and rigged, and with the bike in gear with clutch lever pulled, I can free up the rear wheel by rocking it back and forth a couple times. Haven't had a chance to get the bike on the ground (off the maintenance stand) or ride it yet, but we'll see. Hopefully no more about that.

And finally, I got the front brake lines installed. I used Goodridge Sniper 2 Mini lines and fittings and I think they look pretty good. Super easy to put together and about half as thick as traditional lines. Call that a win.



 
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