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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Anything wrong with this set up?

Need some opinions before I proceed with making my battery box. Is there anything wrong with how I have the electrics laid out here? Of course I don't have any wiring hooked up yet, and the white cardboard under the CDIs and turn signal relay is just a mock up, but this is what I'm thinking. Just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for headache before I start bending metal. I may also put a circuit breaker box in front of the Rae-San unit (white box) in place of the inline fuse holders I wired in. (something like this: https://shop.revivalcycles.com/waterproof-4-circuit-breaker-relay-fuse-block/)

My main concern is if the R/R... will get enough airflow behind the battery like this. Don't want that thing getting hot.

 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Electronics progress

Ok, so I changed up the electronics layout a little. I got the battery box fabricated. Haven't permanently mounted it yet, but I'll probably use nutplates for that. And of course once everything is done, it'll get a final coat of black paint. I also need to make some sort of retainer to hold the battery down when I'm doing wheelies! Ha!...no wheelies.
I mounted the starter solenoid to the side of the box, and rewired it up to a new fuse box. I had to test it, so I filled her up with oil and double checked everything and hit the start button...she cranks!!! (no start yet, gotta finish the Rae-San hookups.







I relocated the R/R up to the bottom side of the underseat tray and got that wired up. It shares the bolts that hold down the Rae-San box above it.
Tray isn't finished yet...I'll be adding another section behind the front piece. That's next. I'm working my way back to the CDI boxes, turn signal relay, brake flasher, tail lights, and finishing up the hookups for the Rae-San kit.



Since I dumped the original fuses in the handlebar mount when I went with the fork swap, I relocated the fuses back under the seat. I was going to go with solid state circuit breakers and case from Revival Cycles, but I found this one locally and installed it in front of the Rae San box. I picked up some properly colored 18 gauge wire off ebay (black/brown, black/yellow, brown/white, blue/white) and routed it back under the seat. I think it looks pretty clean and everything is working as it should. I also wired up the Acewell gauge by cutting out the stock instrument cluster connector and pinning in a new 2.8mm 9-pin connector from Vintage Connections.





Oh yeah, I also cut out most of the cross brace under the seat that used to hold the top of the airbox. I left the top angle in for some added strength in the rear frame/seat mount area.
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
Underseat electronics tray is welded in and pretty much done! Relay and flasher are held in with industrial velcro, as are the CDI boxes. Probably make some sort of retainer for those, since they're hanging upside down.






 

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Discussion Starter #129
Exhaust is done! Thanks to my buddy, (again) for doing an outstanding job welding it up. I utilized the stock passenger foot pegs and muffler hangers, but cut off the rear portion of the hangers.




Then I added a piece of 1/8" stainless for a bracket on the new mufflers.



Adapters and retainer spring clips welded into the new CRK headers, and viola...she's got pipes! Can't wait to hear how they sound. Hope it runs...



 

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Have you made sure that the forks will not hit the tank?
You may have to move it rearward a bit for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Have you made sure that the forks will not hit the tank?
You may have to move it rearward a bit for clearance.
I had it set up with modified steering stops to clear the tank, but as Chopper Charles pointed out, the turning radius was too short. Moving the tank back was out of the question because the seat can't be moved. I really would've loved to buy a set of custom Cognito triple trees, but they're way too expensive. I just couldn't bring myself to spend another $600-700 on this project. I still need to get everything painted.

So I wound up pushing in some depressions (nicer way of saying dents) in the tank to give more clearance for the forks. Now I have way better turn radius and the forks don't hit the tank. Not ideal, but I can live with it.

 

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Necessity is the mother of invention! i think that was a inventive way to solve the issue in a fiscally responsible manner. :headbang:

The whole front end setup looks really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Clutch problem

Once again, I need some help.

While rigging up my new clutch cable, I made a rather frustrating discovery. My clutch simply does not work. When in gear, and the clutch is pulled, there is no free movement of the rear wheel at all. No amount of adjusting can get the clutch to disengage. I even tried manually turning the arm and still nothing. I don't think it's the gearbox, as I can cycle through all the the gears and when the bike is in neutral, the wheel spins freely.

I thought maybe it was the EBC springs I put in, so I swapped them back to the old stock ones, properly removing and torquing (criss-cross and in steps). Still nothing. I also made sure the push pin was in it's slot while I had the cover off.

Can anyone please give me some pointers here before I completely tear down the clutch assembly again? What did I muck up?
 

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Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)
It lives!!

Well, no luck getting the clutch figured out. I took it all apart, measured everything per the factory service manual, and everything is in speck. Was hoping to find the plates warped or something, but they're good to go. Reassembled it all and had it work by manually activating the arm a little, but then when I went back to rigging the cable, it's back to not disengaging again. Hmm. Have to get that figured out...

But...some good news. I decided to put oil/fuel in it, and try for a start (in neutral), and...SHE RUNS!!!! After a little coaxing, she fired right up and runs like a champ! Sounds AWESOME too. Love the way this motor sounds! I'm really pleased with the exhaust note and very happy I was successful in my first ever engine rebuild. Getting closer everyday!


 

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Discussion Starter #137 (Edited)
Time for an overdue update:

After fussing with the clutch some more, and repeatedly taking it apart to troubleshoot, I threw in the towel and bought a set of EBC discs. It's all buttoned up again and "seems" to be working now. More to come on that later... Still need to rig the new cable.

Picked up another set of the Morimoto Pindicators for the rear because I felt the integrated signals in the brake light weren't bright enough to be safe. I'm wiring those into the gussets for the rear seat hoop.

I wasn't happy with the front fender set up, (it had holes where I didn't want them) so I scrapped it and went to the salvage yard and picked up another one off a '80 custom. That one is much wider, and looks like it fits the tire way better. Same as before, I attacked it with a cutoff wheel and I'm in the process of re-doing the struts. I also only trimmed the back side so the front looks cleaner. This is mocked up...the struts will be shortened to line up with the edge of the fender. All will be painted black when done.

 

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Thinking of calling this build "Gordita"....loosely translated, means "Chubby Girl" (affectionately). What do ya'll think?
That's so insensitive, you should be ashamed of yourself... :D Just kidding, pretty good, I like it and learned a new word today to boot!
 
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