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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I'm wrapping up my winter project but have 1 more item to check off. Relocating the ignition.

I was thinking about putting it here on the right side, but was a little worried about heat right there.
Think that will be an issue?

199383
 

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By ignition you are referring to the key switch? If so, I don't think that heat there will be a problem. Be aware that this is not something I have tried myself.
 

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Seems like a good place to bash the key with your knee or vice versa.

Agreed, heat at that location shouldn't bother a switch. Then again.....depends on the quality of the switch components.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes sorry the Ignition switch (updated the title). Thank you, very good point i could nail my knee on it which wouldn't be fun. I'll consider somewhere else?

I thought about up underneath the tank but in front, above the radiator, but there doesn't seem to be a good flat surface to mount there
 

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I don't like keyswitches below the tank because it is hard to tell which position the key is in when you take it out. A friend of mine once got a really good deal on a CB550 (they came with the keyswitch under the front of the tank on the left) because the PO forgot which way to turn the key and kept finding the battery dead after he turned the key to Park instead of Off (leaves the tail light on).

On my GS400 I mounted the keyswitch on a bracket under the upper triple clamp and behind the headlight. That worked with the original wiring and tucked it out of sight but I could still see it if I turned the steering and leaned over a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't like keyswitches below the tank because it is hard to tell which position the key is in when you take it out. A friend of mine once got a really good deal on a CB550 (they came with the keyswitch under the front of the tank on the left) because the PO forgot which way to turn the key and kept finding the battery dead after he turned the key to Park instead of Off (leaves the tail light on).

On my GS400 I mounted the keyswitch on a bracket under the upper triple clamp and behind the headlight. That worked with the original wiring and tucked it out of sight but I could still see it if I turned the steering and leaned over a bit.
Gotcha, that's all good points. The aftermarket switch I got doesn't have a "park" position which I don't think i'll miss
 

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If you want to get sneaky and set up a FOB type system.

Look into Adrunio systems and some simple programing. This uses an RFID fob and a reader. A simple program to energize a couple of relays. Then your Key is the fob waved in front of the reader to "turn on" the bike. Now you can use the normal start switch. Use the "Run/Kill" switch to kill the engine and reset the RFID controlled relays.

Adrunio software is available as free download and all the components are readily available and not very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you want to get sneaky and set up a FOB type system.

Look into Adrunio systems and some simple programing. This uses an RFID fob and a reader. A simple program to energize a couple of relays. Then your Key is the fob waved in front of the reader to "turn on" the bike. Now you can use the normal start switch. Use the "Run/Kill" switch to kill the engine and reset the RFID controlled relays.

Adrunio software is available as free download and all the components are readily available and not very expensive.
That does sound interesting as I'm a programmer :)
 

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Keyless systems seem like a good idea but what happens if you leave something on and the battery gets run down? Come to think about it, how much current does the keyless receiver draw when it is waiting for the signal?
 

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That sounds like it should be OK. I was concerned because the clock in the China/eBay instrument panel (the one I should never have installed) drew enough to discharge my GoldWing's battery in 6 weeks and it is a lot bigger than the batteries in these bikes.
 

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The reader will need power 100% of the time. It will control a couple relays. One will be a momentary contact and the second as a latching relay. The reader is a momentary type, only responds to the FOB RFID.

You effectively are controlling 2 circuits. One circuit is for the reader that is powered all the time. One circuit for the bike power. The latching relay acts like an "ignition key". When you stop the engine with the "kill" switch, it also drops power on the latching relay.

This is an RFID system. Look up the Ardunio information. There are numerous programs for this type of control. Many times it is a straight forward cut & paste with a few minor program tweaks.
 

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If you want to get sneaky and set up a FOB type system.

Look into Adrunio systems and some simple programing. This uses an RFID fob and a reader. A simple program to energize a couple of relays. Then your Key is the fob waved in front of the reader to "turn on" the bike. Now you can use the normal start switch. Use the "Run/Kill" switch to kill the engine and reset the RFID controlled relays.

Adrunio software is available as free download and all the components are readily available and not very expensive.
I did this with my GN400 build, but I put the reader in the seat cowl and the fob at the end of my jacket sleeve. This way I could slap my bike's ass to turn it on. She lit right up when I did that. Good times....
 

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I guess I should show where I relocated the keyswitch (the ignition - pulse generators, spark units, coils &c - is still in the stock location).

On Eccles I wasn't too imaginative. This is the bike I use in bad weather and I didn't want to make things any more difficult than necessary
199464


I did something different on Mr.H, though. If you look carefully you can barely see the key in this pic
199465


You can see it better in this one. When I replaced the original instrument panel and added the speaker/wiring box they wouldn't fit in the space with the original keyswitch in the original location. I changed to a CT70 type keyswitch (much smaller) and there still wasn't room on the new panel for it without crowding things too much so I put it in the side of the box. I like that it is less conspicuous there but the clear panel attached to the handlebar (blocks the steady blast of air caused by the sidecar) makes it awkward to reach unless I stand up on the pegs.
Also, the keyway of first CT keyswitch I had there was reversed to the bike's original locks so I had 2 keys on the clip and at speed the other key would fall to the other end of the clip and dance around in the turbulence from the edge of the windshield. I eventually replaced it with one that has the correct keyway and re-keyed it so I only need one key (the clip still moves but not nearly as much).
199467
 
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