[ChopperCharles]

nothing to see on the axle mod its 2 pieces of shim tubing pressed into the bearings and brake panel for the axle to go through
i will see if i can dig up some pictures

Shouldn't need an axle mod anymore, the bearings are now available. 5-5220 or 328-2RS are 15x52x16 and the 5-4712 bearing is a 15x47x14. These are readily available on eBay, from US sellers and bearing supply places. The left side bearing is 1mm thicker than the original 20x52x15, but that shouldn't make much difference at all.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

You have to make your own spacers for the left side of the axle anyways. And 1mm is within the swingarm width tolerance anyhow.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

Won't the spacers need to be shortened?

In short, I'll let you know in a week or two when I've got all the parts and am mocking it up.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

Oh... I guess I didn't post here. Everything is bolted up and it rotates nice and smoothly, with no binding whatsoever. I have to rebuild a caliper and make a brake pedal, but the hard part is done.

There's plenty of clearance on the sides of the tire to the swingarm, and I'm really happy with how everything fit together and works.

Stock tire is a 130/90/16, and is 25.2 inches in diameter.
The 78 CX had a 18" rim with a 4.00x18 tire, for a diameter of 26 inches.
The 78 rim with a 110/90/18 on it is 25.8".
The 78 rim with a 120/90/18 on it is 26.5".

I'm running a 5.10x17 (stock size for the GL1000 rear), and I've measured it at 25.9" in diameter (well, I measured the circumference at 81.5" and calculated the diameter)
The Goldwing rim with a 130/80/17 it will have a 25.2" diameter, same as the stock 16 incher.

In truth, I was kinda hoping for more wheel-based RPM reduction. But I'll take it.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

The stock rear for the GL1000 is 4.50-17.

Hrm, you're right. But, the 5.10/17 fits nicely and is not overly pinched or rounded, so I'm sticking with it.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

Yeah, my blog hasn't been updated in years. But there should be a dark overlay on top of the background pic, which makes the text legible.

 

[ChopperCharles]

This is what I see using Edge.

View attachment 212123

Yeah, don't use Microsoft browsers. It looks fine in Chrome, Firefox, and Safari.

One day I'll put more content in there and completely revamp it. But today is not that day.

Charles

 

[ChopperCharles]

The GL1100 17" comstar is a much easier fit. It's already got the correct spacing, all you need to do is replace the bearings and machine a new distance collar to put between the bearings. (You might get away with using a CX distance collar, but you'd have to measure and make sure). You'll still have to machine a spacer or two and a collar for the brake caliper stay, but if you have a lathe that stuff is easy.

I'm using a CBR929RR right footpeg/pedal/master cylinder setup as the basis for my rear brake. I could just bolt it on and weld a tab on the frame for the bottom mount, but I'm trying to do this bike with as little frame modification as possible. Everything is currently un-doable by using stock parts. My intention is to Cut off the footpeg mount on the reversed Custom footpegs that are currently mounted on the bike. I'll weld a plate to the mount and attach the brake pedal bits from the CBR controls. I intend to use IMS Supersport pegs, for which I already have procured mounting brackets. So it's all a matter of assembly and welding.

I might work on that this weekend, while I'm waiting for a new ignition switch.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

No, the GL1000 wheel fits too far to the left and the final drive sheild has to be removed or the rim machined wider to fit it. It's a lot more work for the GL1000 rims. If you just want a disc brake rear wheel, the easiest way is to go with spokes, and buy a fully assembled spoked wheel and caliper bracket from cognito-moto. Snag a used ducati rear caliper and you're done. It's the easiest, but it's also the most expensive, and it doesn't look period-correct with those modern Warp 9 rims. Pair that with a DOHC CB750K front wheel laced to another warp-9 front rim. The second easiest way is to use reverse comstars from a CB900C (16") or GL1100 (17"). The hardest way is to use a GL1000 rear wheel.

That said, if you have a big lathe and/or know a machinist even the hardest way isn't that hard. But the GL1000 wheel won't even fit properly between the CX500 swingarm without some machining. The brake disc will want to occupy the space where the left shock sits.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

Anything is possible with a welder an angle grinder and a bunch of time, but the short of it is it will be a lot easier to put new bearings in a GL1100 comstar and sleeve the brake arm, then come up with a master cylinder arrangement. For a GL500 it's pretty easy. Weld a stop to bolt the brake arm to, weld a mount near the OEM brake arm, and use the arm pivot to actuate the master. A GL1100 comstar and disc brake conversion is probably the easiest one to do, hands down.

Charles.

 

[ChopperCharles]

Even a GL500 swingarm isn't a direct bolt on to a CX500.

Not even close. Cutting and welding required.

Charles.