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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m replacing my timing chain. Everything is in good shape, the tensioner was at the end of its stroke but the chain was not slapping and didn’t rub anywhere. The guide and tensioner blades are in good shape but they are hard, they absolutely don’t feel like rubber but are like hard plastic. I know that David Silver has a replacement for the left guide but not for the tensioner blade. I also saw here that some had bad experiences with the replacement guide blades failing. What is the general consensus, reuse the existing ones or go for the David Silver left guide and try to find a tensioner blade that is still soft rubber?
 

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1983 cx650c
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When I replaced the cam chain on the 650 the conditions were the same as you describe. I got a replacement blade from silver's, looked at it and threw it in the recycling pile and reused the originals. That was only a few thousand miles ago but no problems with anything yet. I also did everything possible inside the rear cover to preserve the old bike and it's working quite well for it's age.
 

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I should add that I did the work three winters ago and the quality of the guide blades available may have improved but the part I received had only a physical resemblance to the Honda part. It was obviously a hand made attempt at duplication and very poor quality throughout. For that reason alone I don't recommend silvers as an honest source of parts, the thing I got was guaranteed engine damage sold as a replacement part.
 

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I would think that if they can't make a GOOD part they shouldn't be offering it for sale....
(Im not implying the one DSS offers is good.....)
Even OEM parts are somewhat "just OK" for many Hondas, ...interestingly theres people making "improved designs" for other 1980s Hondas like the 4s....(sorry OP no thread hijack intended)
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I've never seen a guide or tensioner that showed excessive wear for being hard, only broken tensioners due to slapping chains. Use the original.
 
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The starter clutch is prone to wear on the 650 models and careful inspection and replacement of worn parts standard procedure. The oil seal in conjunction with the water pump seal also a standard replacement item during bypass operations. Shift shaft seal also a consideration when rear cover is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The starter clutch is prone to wear on the 650 models and careful inspection and replacement of worn parts standard procedure. The oil seal in conjunction with the water pump seal also a standard replacement item during bypass operations. Shift shaft seal also a consideration when rear cover is off.
Yes all of this is also taken care of. I have new starter springs. The starter gear surface where the rollers bite on when starting was showing some wear so I reground the surface on a cylindrical grinder (removed about 0.0015in). Rollers were not flat spotted so they will be reused. All seals are changed and also the stator. It was getting burnt and crusty looking and the bike wasn't charging when I test ran it last summer.

Thanks for the tips!
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Be sure to use OEM starter clutch springs. I missed that advice and installed K&N springs last spring. They already started slipping by fall. Not so bad that I'll replace them right away, but I expect it will be soon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Be sure to use OEM starter clutch springs. I missed that advice and installed K&N springs last spring. They already started slipping by fall. Not so bad that I'll replace them right away, but I expect it will be soon.
Yes, I saw that advice so I got real Honda springs.

BTW, I got the water pump mechanical seal on Ebay, $7.99 USD free shipping ! Just received it and it looks just like the original one. We'll see if it lasts or not. From my experience with swimming pool pumps mechanical seals, a mechanical seal is a mechanical seal so I'm not afraid to use it....

Stator is a Caltric, I know that I need to verify and correct clearance with the rear cover to prevent shorts.

Then it's back in the frame and I'll tackle the carb cleaning.
 
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