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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a newbie to the gl500/650 but not new to Hondas. I recently bought a GL500I then bought a Standard GL650 with 9000miles on it. So I took the fairing and bags off 500 and put them on the 650. I finally got the project done after getting my 83 fairing mount. The 650 had a Rattle to it so I checked the valve gap, was spot on. Well I am new to this transverse twin and i remember my buddies old cx500 was kind of "valvey" sounding. I checked and all the fluids everything was good. So yesterday i decided to go for a ride. It was glorious, the thing moves right along, the stereo rocks, the sun was shining, my new highway pegs were awesome, you get the point. So I was cruising at about 75mph then it just quit.
NO Bang or Clatter it just DIED and I pulled in the clutch and coasted to a stop.
Hit the starter and it spun over like it had no plugs in it. I don't think the valves hit the pistons?
So I tore it down and yup the Chain Snapped and jammed up on the Cam. Was the rattle I heard a malfunctioning Tensioner?
Where can I get a new Tensioner or how do i check this one?
I read the triple bypass wiki and own a factory service Manual. So on the wiki it sounded like the tensioner side slider is no longer available? I need one can someone help?
I plan on ordering the mechanical seal and gaskets, chain, sliders, o rings, etc. but first would like to verify nothing else got damaged.
What is a good internet site to order the parts from?
Anything else I should order or consider here?
How shall i check valves without tearing heads off? The Pistons looked ok through the plug hole. and again there was no noise or jolt when it quit.
Drained the oil and there was some of the slider plastic in the oil, no big chips or aluminum in it, the oil was suprisingly clean.

I did take off valve covers and it looked like left side valves were almost closed and right side Exhaust were slightly open. So I believe i got lucky. Looking for advise on others members experience.
Sorry for the lengthy rambling but trying to get this posted so I can get parts ordered this week, asap.
The bike is a 1983 GL650 with 9000 original miles. I want to fix it and ride the wheels off of it.
Thanks
 

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Murray is a really good source for parts, reliable and knows Wtf he is talking about. DavidSilvers is where you could order the part online, but I would wait and talk to Murray because, not to toot his flute... But he will learn you some.

All and all, I just did a chain and tensioner for the first time and it wasn't a hard project, wiki has some answers to your project, read ahead and follow the crafty tricks these guys have came up with over the years.

Good luck

Wisco
 

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The tensioner and guide are now on DavidSilvers... Although that is for the CX500, your right, I haven't seen any for the 650 yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Talked to Murrayf this morning. Have a game plan to do some more investigating. I shall report back with further questions and updates.
Thanks for the prompt replies to a newb on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here are 2 views of the chain sliders and adjuster. I need to replace or repair.
Are they able to be resurfaced? I remember seeing a thread talking about it.
The adjuster side is not available correct?

Also I did a Hydro lock test and the intake valves on my right head are bent. Now what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow those pictures posted huge! not sure why? Anyways it shows the grooves cut in by the broken links on timing chain.
 

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OK. I am new to this Forum but am in need of some advice: Have a '83 GL650 with 25K miles and has started having a light knock at idle but goes away off idle. Have checked valve tappet and were marginally (like .003+ and .004+ i.e. not a light drag on the feeler but not excessively loose) so tightened to specs; some minimal reduction in knock but sure didn't eliminate it :( Did oil & filter change and found more-than-minor amount of metallic filings in filter (had 2600mi since last oil & filter change)-- so something is wearing inside. Also pulled the bottom sump to check debris there and nothing of significance in pan or on oil pump inlet screen-- one very small plastic "whisker". Engine runs like normal but concerned about the knock-- which started early in a just completed 2K mi tour and didn't get any worse during the trip. After reviewing some posts, have done some examination through the timing-mark access port (right side below carbs) and took following pictures of cam tensioner. I haven't seen one other than in shop manuals but to me this doesn't look right. Would appreciate an "educated eye" to review and advise on what may be going on-- my suspicion is that the auto-tensioner is failed and allowing the timing chain to flop around at idle and maybe that the plastic whisker is wear from the chain blades. The pics were taken with an inspection mirror so are probably reversed but that would not be significant-- looks to me like the shaft of the tensioner is not straight and I didn't think it was supposed to be 2 sizes; I am seeing some wear marks at the base of the large shaft from the spring also. Included a pic of the upper end of the blade where the tensioner "pushes" as it looks broken/ displaced to me but, again, not familiar enough to say for sure. Thanks for the help. Light Incandescent light bulb Auto part Still life photography Light bulb
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STOP DRIVING IT the tension-er is about to let go

the metal you found in the filter is light colored aluminum from the chain being loose

you will need to replace the chain and tension-er or do a quad bypass

chain stator and mech seal and STARTER CLUTCH
 

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Murray: Thanks-- I think-- for confirming my suspicions. I have stopped using til can tear it apart and see extent of actual damage. The filings in the filter pleats (washed with solvent then filtered out debris) was not aluminum as it was attracted by magnet-- or maybe it was a mixture of ferrous and aluminum??--Not that this makes any real difference. Anyway, this brings up the question on current situation on availability of 650 tensioner or procedure for reverting back to manual (vs automatic) tensioner. Suggestions appreciated :)
 

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When the chain starts chewing the case there is a bolt there it also gets into. That's where the magnetic filings are probably coming from.
 

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Understand about doing the stator and mechanical seals while have it opened up but wondering why the starter clutch? And exactly what does "doing the starter clutch" involve-- simply disassembling , cleaning and inspecting to ensure no metallic particles in it that would cause future problems or what??
 

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MurryF- I am having some difficulty understanding your reply?? Think some phrase-separating punctuation may help. The procedure in the Hayne's manual is not to be used? You are saying the torx head screws (not sure what you meant by "torx bot screws" ?) are to be left as found but the 3 clutch springs are known weak point and should be replaced regardless-- is this correct? Are the rollers, followers and springs able to be removed/replaced without separating the halves of the starter clutch? I searched the site for discussions on "starter clutch overhaul" and found little help; is there a post that covers this which I am missing? Thanks.
 

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gfemling, we all welcome you to the forum. Please add your bike details to your signature in your profile so we always know what model/year we are talking about.

As far as forum grammar, that is always a sticking point for some, but eventually you will understand typonese. Don't fault highly qualified members because of it. Instead, read through it and analyze it yourself, as you have a good ways to go as well.

If you have not done so, you can download a free copy of the factory service manual from the WIKI in the link below. You will find a bunch of great stuff in there, so slow down, and absorb.

Joel in the Couve
 

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The torx screws in the starter clutch are single use. If you undo them they should be replaced but removal is unnecessary. The rollers springs and caps can be disassembled without removing the cover plate retained by the torx screws. The starter clutch is best reinstalled with a twisting motion to roll the rollers into the housing and out of the way.

The reason Murray has told you to inspect this area is that the filings and shavings from the worn camchain and associated damage get into the starter clutch and damage it over a period of time.
 

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the reason i want the starter clutch springs changed is simple

and this is aside from in the case of the poster it may have swarf from the chain break

until the recent advent of agm batteries the cranking amps delivered by most wet acid batteries was actually less than what a 650 needed as it uses the same

starting gear as the 500 but is a 674 cc motor with more mass and close to the same compression

add to that a unserviced starter weak or corroded connections and they hesitate when the starter button is pushed

there are some workarounds some of them inventive to say the least

but the hesitation and slamming in of the starter clutch chatters the 3 springs when you go to change them if you put one of the new ones from honda

up against the ones you take out you will probably be surprised to find them much shorter or one broken ect

normally the rollers and pins are good just the springs are bad

the reason i only use honda springs is i have tried others and had failures within a year or so

so replace the springs clean your starter clean your connections and use a 220cca heavy duty agm battery (45-50)

and you wont have any starting problems

as for me saying not to use the fsm procedure to rebuild the starter there are the reasons cxphreak mentioned

plus the issue of having the correct socket of the correct quality that it will actually remove the bolts

and the fact that over the years i have watched members destroy there clutches trying to take them apart or have them fail by not tightening them up properly

and later while the engine is running having a screw come out

i have seen magnets damaged in the removal process

and last but not least it is just not needed



to the poster if you need more info please just call me back
 
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