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its junk then
it is either the chicken or the egg in the broken chain act
the tensioner is supposed to one way lock out only
so the ball lock is not working on yours and you cant reuse it
i looked at the video and it does look like the lock is working for part of the travel but i cant tell if it si past
the range of use
you are not collapsing it fully and would have to release the ball lock to do it
but it looks odd

i will check this against a few i have spare later this morning to make sure and get back to you
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Did anyone review the parts in the bottom half of post #15?? I got a little cash from some sales off eBay, id like to go ahead and order them either set since they are outside of the states. Thanks in advance
 

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Generally you'd test them by digging your thumbnail into them. If you can leave an imprint they're likely good. If you can't the elastomer {or whatever it is} has hardened and may be brittle.

Bit hard to check with a long distance purchase though.

They LOOK OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Okay thanks! I've emailed the seller about that, and while I was looking I found a seller with a new aftermarket chain and the tensioner blade guide, and I had previously located another aftermarket blade or whatever you want to call them
201731


But numbers 5 and 8 now I'm waiting to here back a number 4.
 

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Before giving up on the tensioner, I'd try resetting it. Once reset if the plunger still pushes in then it is FUBAR.
 

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Use something like a screwdriver to push the ball in against its spring, then push in the plunger. While holding the plunger in release the ball, then release the plunger. The ball should now lock the plunger from being pushed in. See chapter 10 in the CX500E shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Use something like a screwdriver to push the ball in against its spring, then push in the plunger. While holding the plunger in release the ball, then release the plunger. The ball should now lock the plunger from being pushed in. See chapter 10 in the CX500E shop manual.
Okay just got back home, I did the afore mentioned procedure and the outcome is the same as the video I posted in a previous replay, no more or less travel. So I guess that means I need a new/new to me good condition one?

Also my manual doesn't show anything about servicing the auto tensioner not in chap 10 or the 650 addendum
201737
201738

201739
 

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In the engine the plunger will be held in by the pressure from the cam chain and the tensioner. The ball and ramp is to prevent the plunger from moving inwards, releasing tension on the cam chain. If the plunger moves in without first pushing the ball up against its spring then I guess it is toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So the plunger moves in to about 50% spring compression, it doesn't go further than that, unless I push the ball in first as mentioned in the reset procedure. So I guess if it's moving that much it's bad? Sorry I'm so confused I'm building my knowledge on motorcycle repair as I go. This is my second motorcycle that I'm repairing, with some moderate automotive background, so I'm not a complete dolt just mostly lol.
 

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It may be OK, I'm not sure. I have two engines with auto tensioner, have never opened either engine. I'm just going on my understanding of how the tensioner works. On the other hand, Murray knows of what he writes. Good luck, keep learning; let's do it together.
 

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the ones i have will move a tiny bit when over extended in other words removed from the bike
this is when the ball is off the lock ramp nthe plunger will move less than 3/16 ofan inch and does
not move once it approaches the indicator hole
as i said your is junk sorry. your bike was driven with that chain and tensioner hammering for quite a while before the chain broke
it a very noticeable noise
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well darn lol! So I'll wait to see if Randall has a good spare to get to me. In the mean time, what do you make of this sound? This is the other Gl500 it's an 81 I attempted to rebuild Gl500 noise I hope it's not the cam
 
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