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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The GL500I that sat for 13 years is running today. I had to use the gas tank from my other bike as this one has a few small holes in it. The compression did come up and shows an even 120 psi via my gauge on both sides. (I think my gauge reads low but this is the bike that was showing 60 psi before running it so I’m happy)



Some remaining issues are: The gas tank has 3 small holes 1/8 to 3/16 about ¾” away from the petcock. I have not decided how to handle this yet. I used the tank from my rider to get the bike running. (Anybody have a good tank at a reasonable price?)



I bleed the front brakes and the wheel all but locked. I released the bleeders and the front wheel freed up. I’ve considered that the brake lines are clogged and/or the master cylinder. I removed the hose from the master with the reservoir filled and pumped the lever and no fluid came out? (I was able to bleed the brakes but that did take a lot of effort and seemed a bit odd) Question – should fluid shoot out of the master with the brake hose disconnected?



I’ll drop some spacers in the forks soon enough. The bike is also leaking some coolant but that may be because the reservoir is over-filled so I’ll get to that one later.







Any thoughts especially on the front brakes?







Thanks, Mike
 

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Pull the caliper apart. There will be crystallized gunk behind the large O-ring that seals the piston. Pull the o-ring and clean out the groove it sits in and make sure you put the o-ring back in the same way it came out. You'll probably have no leaks after you put it back together and get it pumped back up with pressure. The build up behind the seal is what's locking up the front brakes.



Good to see another one live again.
 

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1) The GL500I that sat for 13 years is running today.



2) Some remaining issues are: The gas tank has 3 small holes 1/8 to 3/16 about ¾” away from the petcock. I have not decided how to handle this yet. I used the tank from my rider to get the bike running. (Anybody have a good tank at a reasonable price?)



3) I bleed the front brakes and the wheel all but locked. I released the bleeders and the front wheel freed up. I’ve considered that the brake lines are clogged and/or the master cylinder. I removed the hose from the master with the reservoir filled and pumped the lever and no fluid came out? (I was able to bleed the brakes but that did take a lot of effort and seemed a bit odd) Question – should fluid shoot out of the master with the brake hose disconnected?



4) The bike is also leaking some coolant but that may be because the reservoir is over-filled so I’ll get to that one later.
1) Congratulations! You have overcome the largest obstacle in getting her back on the road.

2) This is the area in the tank where water settled and rusted the tank from the inside. The entire area is probably very thin and will eventually perforate but a temporary patch may hold for a time. Drain the tank and remove as much corrosion and paint from around the holes as you can. Using a drill bit just slightly larger than the holes, ream them out a bit. Patch with some JB Weld and let it cure for a day before fueling the tank. I've had this stuff last forever.

3) After 13 years of neglect, I would remove, disassemble, clean and probably rebuild the MC and calipers. Also, the brake lines, if original, are shot. Replace with Teflon/SS lines.

4) Where is the leak? If it is at the back near where the coolant pipe from the radiator enters the water pump housing, it's probably the mechanical seal leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Draining the tank won't be much of a problem as it's very very dry after so many years of sitting. The problem is shaking out all the rust. I think I'll hook a shop vac to the gas cap hole and my air compressor to the petcock hole and let all the stuff blow around and maybe the vac will collect it.



If I find a good tank at a fair price that would be great - otherwise I think the JB weld is the way to go.



Seems like the cooling system leak may be from the holding tank. Over-all the bike looks pretty fair.
 

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just a thought, put a bunch of BB's in the tank with possibly something to loosen the rust or just alone and find a way to agitate it, sort of like one of those rock polishers. Maybe that will loosen up more rust.
 

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Hi Mike, agree with the preceding above,- rebuild the entire brake system (Calipers, MC and reservoir, new ss brake lines and new brake pads. DON'T forget,- the ultrasonic unit works great (also) on the calipers., (if you have one). George Fix has the caliper rebuild kits at a great price. Its an economical job to replace the rear brake shoes as well- even if the wear indicator says there "good" -- - being of unknown duration- there likely glazed over and hardened,- think about replacement. These jobs will give you the renewed, top notch braking system you can have confidence in.

Post us with your progress. Sam
 
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