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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
OK. My Chine-Glish is working a little better now. It looks like the instructions say to connect the black/yellow wire to your ignition trigger source. It might not like a high-voltage connection at the coil, as Phreak has mentioned above. The only other option is one of the pulse coils from the crankshaft. Which wire that might be is what you have to figure out.
by that are you referring to the 4 wire connector that goes from the pickup to the ignitors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Keep in mind that these have a redundant spark so they spark twice as often. You will be reading the pulse from one cylinder though.

I have the setting I used written down in the shed if you need it.
well there’s only 2 options; 2 or 4 cylinder. so if you got yours to work then i’ll just see which one looks more accurate
 

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True.

It's a nice instrument. My wire chart was wrong regarding the neutral light wire. The one they said it was was actually one of the gears on the gear indicator. Careful if you'll be cutting out those wires.

The speedo seems accurate when set to the correct wheel circumference. I fitted the sensor below the final drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
True.

It's a nice instrument. My wire chart was wrong regarding the neutral light wire. The one they said it was was actually one of the gears on the gear indicator. Careful if you'll be cutting out those wires.

The speedo seems accurate when set to the correct wheel circumference. I fitted the sensor below the final drive.
thanks, all i really wanted this for was the speedo and tach, not sure if i’ll bother wiring the other options too or not, in my mind the simpler the wiring on the bike the less things to go wrong lol. the cbr1000 forks have a perfect spot to mount the speed sensor aimed at the rotor, so that should work perfect for me as well. thanks again for ur help man
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Both of the types I have used worked properly on a TI bike with the tach wire connected to an ignition coil's + wire (blue or yellow - doesn't matter which). The pulses there are only 12V, not exactly what I'd call "high voltage".

FWIW, one of the types I used said to try winding the tach wire around a spark plug lead (can't remember how many turns), which made the tach jump around but it didn't work right until I connected the wire directly to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Both of the types I have used worked properly on a TI bike with the tach wire connected to an ignition coil's + wire (blue or yellow - doesn't matter which). The pulses there are only 12V, not exactly what I'd call "high voltage".

FWIW, one of the types I used said to try winding the tach wire around a spark plug lead (can't remember how many turns), which made the tach jump around but it didn't work right until I connected the wire directly to the coil.
that’s what i thought would do it. I wonder if i didn’t have a good connection somewhere when i tried hooking up to the signal wire
 

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What are you using as a ground wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Which wire did you connect it to?
i tried signal to ignition coil, power to ignition coil, and 1 of the 4 wires from the pickup coil. gonna try the other wires from the pickup coil and try the signal wire again and verify the connection
 

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chassis ground by the ignition coil. the ground is good, i just went through all the wiring on the bike and redid everything.
Good. Not everyone realizes that Honda uses green wires for grounds.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Chassis ground is not considered reliable. Current return path connections should always use a green wire (no stripe) in the wiring harness.

Which wire at the coil? The black/white wire is steady DC so it won't trigger the tach. You have to connect to either the blue or the yellow. (this is exactly what Ray said in poet #19)

BTW: The pulse generators are not referenced to ground so I don't think connecting to one of the pins in the pulse generator connector will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Chassis ground is not considered reliable. Current return path connections should always use a green wire (no stripe) in the wiring harness.

Which wire at the coil? The black/white wire is steady DC so it won't trigger the tach. You have to connect to either the blue or the yellow. (this is exactly what Ray said in poet #19)

BTW: The pulse generators are not referenced to ground so I don't think connecting to one of the pins in the pulse generator connector will work.
I agree, and the yellow wire to one of the ignition coils was the first wire i tried. I also thing that’s the one that should work, but i tried the others just because the first time it didn’t work. I’m going to try it again and make sure the connection to the wire works. I redid the wiring harness, and i used the chassis ground by the coil as my ground for my lights, so i know the ground connection is good
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Using the frame as a return path for the lights is a very bad idea. Not only are chassis ground connections notoriously unreliable but if you ground to something that results in current having to flow through a bearing to get back to the battery it can cause arcing in the bearings, leading to premature bearing failure.

Honda didn't go to the trouble & expense of including the green wire because it looks nice.....
 

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There should be a spare ground wire near the turn signal flasher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Got it to work using a signal wire to the ignition coil. Apparently the pin on the connector i was using was a little too corroded (probably should have checked that given it was a random 9 pin connector i had on the shelf from who knows where) cleaned it up and now it works. Guess sometimes I forget to check the basics before assuming I’m doing something wrong 🤷🏻‍♂️😂
 

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Yay! Now write it down on the schematics exactly as it worked, and you and others will have a reliable reference. Congratulations!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Wiring from diagram for this tach:
Red - constant 12v+
Black - switched 12v+
Green - ground
Black/Yellow - tach source, which is blue or yellow wire coming from either ignitor chip going into ignition coil.
I set mine to 2 cylinder, it seems to read correctly as far as I can tell.

For anyone interested I found this on amazon for around 40-50$. Time will tell how it holds up, but from what I was reading most negative reviews were from packaging or lack of instructions, which both have since been fixed from the seller/manufacturer
208605
 
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