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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anyone can confirm whether a 16” rear wheel from a 1982 GL1100 Goldwing would bolt right onto a 1982 CX500?

The wheels looks identical, however the GL wheel 3” wide (instead of the stock 2.5”).
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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The Goldwing axle is larger, so the CX axle would need to be shimmed to fit the wheel. There's no convenient bearing that fits the CX anxle and GW wheel. There's also the whole rear disc brake conversion that you'd need to work out.
If you want to try your hand at wheel building, you might adapt the GW rim to the CX hub. Of course, that's potentially catastrophic if you don't REALLY know what you're doing.
And the wider tire might not fit in the CX swing arm.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you know if the hub can come out without touching those rivets on the outside of the diameter of the wheel?

Here is a CX500 wheel just for quick reference.

208901
208902
 

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It's not as simple as just bolting it back together.
Look for threads by folks who have done it. They used specific, aircraft-rated hardware that's slightly oversized so the rivet holes can be drilled out to a uniform size and roundness. As I said, you really need to know what you're doing to make it safe.
Be sure your wider tire will fit before you go to all that work.
 
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Tire size is limited to 140-ish (rim size or sidewall may vary) with out mods to the swing arm. 150-ish and above if you want to get crazy with the grinder.

And I think I've even seen some extreme mods to fit a 180 tire, but I could be mistaken because I cant find it now.

I went with a wire wheel custom hub in order to get the nicer tire "look", see my thread for more specifics.
 

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150-ish and above if you want to get crazy with the grinder.
... and welder. That drive shaft tunnel needs to be enclosed.
 

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for all that cost and effort, you could probably find a low budget GL1100 project and have two bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Indeed I figured I’d be notching into the swing arm to get the tire to fit. I’d be happy with a 150/90r16 tire.

I also read somewhere it’s possible to use a spacer to nudge the wheel over to give more room on one side?

Doesn’t like that much work, honestly… The only concerning part would be buttoning up the wheel with proper screws/materials (as Randall mentioned) to assure it constructed to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Found a very interesting thread (thanks reclinedrelic!)

 

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Another thing to note is that the poster in the referenced article did not use shoulder bolts. The shoulder on a shoulder bolt is machined to a specific diameter. Shoulder bolts would be preferable in this application.
 
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1982 Honda CX500Turbo, 1983 Honda CX650Turbo, 1974 Norton 850 Commando, 2012 Triumph Tiger Explorer
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Whatever width tire you fit, you will want to ensure that the tire does not interfere with the swingarm. I have not heard of this conversion before. The CX turbo models, which I am more familiar with could barely accept one size larger tire width than stock as anything larger than that will certainly rub the swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Right. Although others have completed this mod, it would be somewhat experimental. I’ll probably get two donor wheels and work on those, instead of my actual wheel.

Regarding fitment, one can trim, notch and weld the seam on the swing awn to make a little extra room to comfortably fit a 140 width tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I’m wondering whether using rivets instead of shouldered bolts would hold stronger?

And why is it necessary to true the wheel? How did Honda true the wheel using rivets?

If I am using nuts/bolts, couldn’t I just use a torque wrench to tighten down all of the bolts equally? And use some red loctite while I’m at it?
 

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How did Honda true the wheel using rivets?
With a very accurate jig. And a machine to very precisely peen the rivets.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So using a torque wrench to tighten all of the bolts down equally would just be a starting point, then would need to go around and true the wheel anyway, ya?

Any idea of what torque they should be at?
 
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