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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the frame ready for reassembly the task of deciding what to do with the original mono shock came up so I decided to take it apart. A friend and I put it into a 20 ton press, compressed it and removed the snap ring and backing ring. We thought we could slowly release the pressure and the shock would come apart. We were wrong....



The shock returned to its non-compressed position but did not separate into two pieces. What am I missing here? Is there something else that needs to be removed to open the shock up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well it looks like I had some bad information concerning the disassembly. Good documentation is a wonderful thing.



Mike Nixon (CBX World) has a book covering ProLink Rebuilds and is also still offering to re-work the shocks for a responsible price.



Terry -- Thanks for the note. Yes. I am however out of town until near the

end of the month. And naturally I don't have my notes in front of me, but I

can tell you a couple of things off the top of my head. One, the seal is no

longer available. I have some for the CBX but it is not the same seal (the

Turbo and CBX are the same however). So we need to start with finding a

seal. Next, you need to realize that there is no such thing as

"rebuilding" this type of shock. The seal can be changed, I usually shim

the spring a touch, but that is it. New oil of course. The valving is

stamped out sheet metal, welded together. No tuning or adjustments are

possible. Fresh oil, the correct amount of oil (the factory consistently

skimped on oil) and correct spring set up will go a long way to reviving the

shock, but this should not be confused with rebuilding in the sense that

real shocks are rebuilt.



If you find the seal, I provide the labor, special tools, damping oil, and a

good disassembly and inspection (I don't just remove the seal and dump the

oil, I remove the outer case and inspect the internals), we're talking about

$155 including insured return shipping, and about a week turnaround. Let me

know what you want to do, and I will look forward to working with you.



Mike Nixon

www.motorcycleproject.com
 

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Great info regarding the monoshock. I've got a squeaky monoshock on my '81 that I keep putting off repairing. One of these days....
 

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Dash, a squeaky monoshock is generally the ProLink bushings, and depending on how easily they come apart, are easily "refreshed" and will be quiet. While they are squeaking they are wearing at an accelerated rate. External application of lube is largely ineffective. Some folks install zerk grease fittings while they are apart for easy future lubing. Ofpars website has a good tutorial on this, I think it's referenced on this BB in General Discussion/Quick Reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Researching the seal has led to a number of interesting conversation with different manufacturer reps and some new vocabulary words.



The seal needed for the Pro-Link Shock is a double-lip TC4 type designed for reciprocating applications in a Rod-Seal environment. A 65x88x10 (GL500) urethane seal that meets these requirements is available over the counter in single quantities for around $10.00.



For those of you that may be interested in rebuilding a Pro-Link shock the following links are interesting. Seal material General Seal Information
 

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Good job on finding that information, Safari. This probably needs to be in the "Quick Reference" section so it can be found later. When you say: "Over the counter", are you referring to a specific store, or can these be ordered off the net?
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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The seal needed for the Pro-Link Shock is a double-lip TC4 type designed for reciprocating applications in a Rod-Seal environment. A 65x88x10 (GL500) urethane seal that meets these requirements is available over the counter in single quantities for around $10.00.
I'd done a little digging a while back, and got hung up on material. I never went so far as to contact the reps.



Nice work.





R
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good job on finding that information, Safari. This probably needs to be in the "Quick Reference" section so it can be found later. When you say: "Over the counter", are you referring to a specific store, or can these be ordered off the net?


There are sites that will sell 65x88x10 seals in unit quantities for $7.50 but I have not verified the seal fits our application. I'm building a list of places that sell what we need and will post it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd done a little digging a while back, and got hung up on material. I never went so far as to contact the reps.



Nice work.





R


The material options are surprising. Options not only for the seal but also for the spring! It would be helpful if someone knew how the original seal was constructed. Having that information would give a baseline for a replacement and help avoid spending more then needed for the replacement.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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It would be helpful if someone knew how the original seal was constructed. Having that information would give a baseline for a replacement and help avoid spending more then needed for the replacement.
I might still have my old fork seals. I imagine they're the same type as the mono-shock seal. If I find them, I'll dissect one.



R
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's some great detective work.



Will Clark Seals sell direct to individuals or do we need to go through a distributor?


DaveF - I have been going through your GL500 research for years so I want to thank you for the great job of documenting and sharing. As soon as it gets a little warmer I'm going to try to build a frame stand like yours to re-assemble my GL500 on. It would be real nice to get this bike out of my basement (it's in little pieces) and back together this year. And no I'm not building it IN the basement!



I am hoping the Clark sales team will respond to my inquires tomorrow. If they do not I will call them Thursday and then post the information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I might still have my old fork seals. I imagine they're the same type as the mono-shock seal. If I find them, I'll dissect one.



R


Thanks Randall.. That will be helpful. I like the photos of your 78CX. I bought one just like it new in May of 78 and rode it all over the black hills of South Dakota.
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a used leaky GL650 shock seal that could be donated to the cause and used for their examination.




Although the GL650 seal is still available from Honda, it would be nice to also find an alternate and less expensive source for it as well as the GL500.



If they do not want to sell to individuals in small quantities maybe we could put together a group buy on the forum, similar to the water pump mechanical seals and Ignitech units. So it would be good to inquire about quantities when you speak with them.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I might still have my old fork seals... If I find them, I'll dissect one.
After searching through a several "why do I keep this stuff" boxes, it appears that I've actually thrown something away. (Never again, after this experience!
) Otherwise, they're somewhere on the workbench, and buried 'til Spring.



Sorry I couldn't help.



R
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The results are in and it looks like we have a good source for the oil seal used in the GL500 Pro-Link shock. The replacement seal measures 65x88x10, has a 5,000 PSI pressure rating, is constructed in urethane, and is designed for fixed seal moving rod reciprocating applications. I'm sure everyone knew that..... The vendor requires a minimum order of 5 seals at a price of $10.00 each. I ordered 5 seals today to complete the research and will be more then willing to sell (cost + shipping) the extra ones to anyone that wants one.



Mike Nixon who has authored a number of books including one titled "Servicing the CBX Pro-Link Shock" has offered to verify the replacement seal will work. Since Mike has the factory tools needed to press the new seal into the shock I will be sending my shock to him for service. Mike will provide the final verification I want before posting the seal source. If you're wondering about the .5mm difference between the original seal and the replacement stop worrying. The .5mm difference is very small and will not be a problem because the seal's insertion depth is determined by the Honda tool used to press the seal into the shock. Both Mike Nixon and the seal vendor agree the difference will not be a problem.



If you are reading this and want to learn a little more about oil seals then take a look at the following links. This is a really good site.



Glossary Shock Absorber Seals Chemical Properties
 

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Safari, first of all outstanding job on researching this, my shock started leaking last year and I have been wondering what I was going to do. Second I work for a company that repairs hydraulic cylinders. If you want to give me the seal info once you get Mike to verify how well it's going to work, I can check with some of our vendors. Most have no minimum quantities or dollar amounts. Once again thanks, looking forward to buying the book in the link.
 

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i would also be interested. My original shock began leaking, so I bought one from an Ebay auction that said it was a good part. Box arrived with the shock inside a plastic bag full of the shock's oil. So now I have 2 that leak. Never was able to contact the seller.
 

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Did some checking with a few seal vendors at work and couldn't come up with anything that didn't need to be custom made, you really did your home work here, nicely done.
 
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