What is used on these bikes are Harley Sportster mufflers, not headers. Check David Silver Spares for aftermarket headers. These headers will be single wall, unlike the Honda double wall headers, and will blue from heat.
GL 500 Aftermarket Exhaust
Hello everyone, first-time post here. I recently picked up an 82' GL 500 for free that has sat in a storage unit for the last 6 years. I live in the Eastern US so I've been able to find some original parts. While the bike isn't in the best shape, a lot of the original stuff isn't too bad. That being said, the exhaust headers and H box are basically rusted together and the exhaust itself isn't too far behind. I've looked around the forums for different aftermarket header pipes (all I could find was a mention of Harley Sportster headers) but haven't had luck finding a link of something that would actually fit. If anyone had a link for pipes that would fit my year I'd appreciate it. Cheers!
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I have one header, the hbox, and one muffler for sale if that helps you piece something togetherHello everyone, first-time post here. I recently picked up an 82' GL 500 for free that has sat in a storage unit for the last 6 years. I live in the Eastern US so I've been able to find some original parts. While the bike isn't in the best shape, a lot of the original stuff isn't too bad. That being said, the exhaust headers and H box are basically rusted together and the exhaust itself isn't too far behind. I've looked around the forums for different aftermarket header pipes (all I could find was a mention of Harley Sportster headers) but haven't had luck finding a link of something that would actually fit. If anyone had a link for pipes that would fit my year I'd appreciate it. Cheers!
Thank you both for the replies. I've recently found a pair of headers for cheap on eBay and I may just do a shorter exhaust instead of the stock ones. Any comment on exhausts that pair well without the hbox?
One common approach is to use exhausts from an HD sportster 883 or 1200(?), which can be used with or without the hbox from what I understand. I used them on multiple bikes: CX500, GL1100, Triumph Adventurer and never had to rejet. You can often find them on Craigslist when the HD guys move to louder exhausts.Thank you both for the replies. I've recently found a pair of headers for cheap on eBay and I may just do a shorter exhaust instead of the stock ones. Any comment on exhausts that pair well without the hbox?
Find ones that don't have ports for crossover pipes and make sure they are the small Sportster ones. HD made larger ones for other models, but those may have clearance issues on the CX/GL. You may need to fab some mounting brackets, like this one from my GL1100.
Here's an example on a CX Custom which I probably should have kept.
Ok great thank you! I didn't want to rejet the carbs yet, at least until after we got the bike back to mostly original condition and then go from there. I'll take a look at some tonight. It looks like you have a middle link pipe connected in there too?
Use these or have something similar bent at a local muffler shop to eliminate the H-box. https://murrayscarbs.com/product/h-box-bypass-pipes-cx500-midpipes-upswept-stock/It looks like you have a middle link pipe connected in there too?
The first pic is the GL1100 with no hbox, crossover tube, or middle link. Just HD exhaust on GL1000 headersOk great thank you! I didn't want to rejet the carbs yet, at least until after we got the bike back to mostly original condition and then go from there. I'll take a look at some tonight. It looks like you have a middle link pipe connected in there too?
The second pic is a CX500C with HD exhaust mounted directly to the hbox. No middle link pipe.
The GL/CX hbox will vary a little from model to model, so the exit angle may be different.
FWIW, I may have been the first on the CX forums to use Harley mufflers (when I mentioned it some were skeptical about whether they would work, now they are common). In those days I bought pre-bent sections of exhaust pipe to cobble together what I needed but now I use Murray's mid pipes.
I don't think any of the ones I've used came from Sportsters, I've always used what I could get cheap (I was even given one pair). I drive a sidecar outfit in the winter (= salted roads) and they last 5-7 years for me on winter bikes but I've had the same set on my summer bike since '97 (I'm planning to replace them this year because they are getting scruffy but they will then move to the winter machine to be used up).
I bought a set of those headers from David Silver's a few years ago and the chrome didn't last. I have acquired a ratty but solid set of original ones that I'm planning to replace them with before winter that will probably last longer in spite of already having some rust
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it was in storage for 6 years you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know that they are over 5 years old so they should be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
I don't think any of the ones I've used came from Sportsters, I've always used what I could get cheap (I was even given one pair). I drive a sidecar outfit in the winter (= salted roads) and they last 5-7 years for me on winter bikes but I've had the same set on my summer bike since '97 (I'm planning to replace them this year because they are getting scruffy but they will then move to the winter machine to be used up).
I bought a set of those headers from David Silver's a few years ago and the chrome didn't last. I have acquired a ratty but solid set of original ones that I'm planning to replace them with before winter that will probably last longer in spite of already having some rust
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it was in storage for 6 years you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know that they are over 5 years old so they should be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
Thank you for all the help! I recently purchased a set of mid pipes from Murray and they just came in. I fit them on and they work perfectly...now on to replacing a lot of other parts that were neglected throughout the years.
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