Gasket Kit A vs B
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OEM Honda Gasket kit contains "A" only the gaskets needed to remove and replace the heads when doing a valve job. Gasket kit "B" is a complete set of gaskets and "O" rings for the rest of the motor/transmission. You probably don't need all these gaskets unless you're completely tearing apart the engine. I just buy the rear cover gasket from honda individually. The rear cover gasket thickness is critical to getting the starter and shifter to work. For the other gasketsw just buy a cheap complete gasket set on e-bay or make your own and source the "O" rings from a plumbing supply store or McMaster-Carr.
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596 Posts
My '81 GL500 sat for eleven years before I bought it. Former owner died and his daughter inherited the cycle. She couldn't get rid of her Dad's things for a long time due to sentimental reasons. Finally her husband told her she needed to bury her father so put up the bike for sale and I bought it. It appeared to be in great shape other than cracked tires and frozen front brake caliper. I oiled the cylinders via the spark plug hole, changed coolant and oil, and installed a new battery. Got it running after an hour of work. Of course it needed carb rebuilt and brake caliper rebuilt which I did. After that bike ran great. Within four months, the head gaskets went bad. I replaced them one at a time. Replaced the left and one month later the right went bad. A couple months later, the front gasket started spewing oil onto my right boot which is a common oil leak symptom. Replaced the front engine cover gasket and that's the status of that bike to this day. I've been on this forum for several years and it seems pretty common for head gaskets to give up after years of sitting. Front engine gasket just goes bad every 25 years. Mine was due.
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1,633 Posts
My avatar is a picture of this bike the day I drove it home from the dealer. What a great day that was! The bike has a bit over 60K on the clock. It's been well ridden. It was my daily commuter for many years. The o-ring around the cam chain tensioner blew out & started spewing oil. I squirted in some RTV every few weeks for months, then finally broke down & pull the engine to split the rear case to replace it. I noticed that the bike had a lot of dings & surface rust & crud that accumulates on a machine that is ridden on a daily basis in all weather. Then I made my mistake... I decided to tear it down & redo the whole thing. I dissassembled it, bagged & labelled the parts, & put it in boxes. There it has set for years as one thing & another always got in the way of working on it. I am now finally committed to restoring it.
Do you think I should lube the cylinders, change the oil, turn it over a few times & see if it will run?
Do you think I should lube the cylinders, change the oil, turn it over a few times & see if it will run?
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8,355 Posts
Why not?I've seen a lot worse ones fire up and have gotten much worse ones that have been neglected to run,
http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/SilverWing/GL500_SilverWing_Black_SunFlower.htm
PS
I wouldn't bother going down to the crank shaft at 60k if the bike was previously well maintained with regular pre-emptive oil changes.There are examples of these bikes with well over 150,000 miles on them on the same original crank shafts,
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=289
I would however change the Cam-chain and rear Water pump oil seal.
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450 Posts
When I bike sits for years, should the thermostat be changed? If so, do you need a gasket for it, and where do you just purchase that gasket?
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8,355 Posts
It may well be ok but they are so cheap from Auto stores as you may as well change it to be safe.They have a Rubber O-ring that you usually have to get separate from a Honda dealer.
http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/418-thermostat/
You may be able to find the O-ring at a good plumbers supplies,
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95&p=554&hilit=oring#p554
58.3 by 3.1mm but those are metric sizes taken from the imperial.You can take the housing in and match up.If the o-ring is not broken you can boil it up in a pan to make it a little more elastic,clean the grooves with a small screwdriver and then use some RTV gasket sealer underneath and let it set a bit under the O-ring to make it proud before re-fit.
Both my CX have old slightly flattened Thermostat housing rings done this way,no leaks.
Whist at car shop take Rad cap and get one of those as well.Again they are a stock 13 Ft lbs/(0.9 bar) car one.You just need to get one the same.Over there usually off a Honda Civic.
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11 Posts
I have a gasket question also. I found two Vesrah Gasket Kits.
The first one is Vesrah Complete Gasket Kit VG-175.
The second one is Vesrah Top-End Gasket Kit VG-575.
I am tearing apart the whole engine.
Are both of these kits needed to repair my CX500C engine?
Are they reliable kits or should I buy from Honda only?
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The first one is Vesrah Complete Gasket Kit VG-175.
The second one is Vesrah Top-End Gasket Kit VG-575.
I am tearing apart the whole engine.
Are both of these kits needed to repair my CX500C engine?
Are they reliable kits or should I buy from Honda only?
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11 Posts
I appreciate the reply Shep. But, sorry, you didn't answer my question.
I stated that I am tearing apart the whole engine.
I also stated Are both of these kits needed to repair my CX500C engine?
Vesrah Complete Gasket Kit VG-175
Complete gasket sets include all necessary engine gaskets, O-rings and valve guide oil seals to rebuild a complete engine (do not include oil seals).
Vesrah Top-End Gasket Kit VG-575
Top-end gasket sets include all necessary top-end gaskets, O-rings and valve guide oil seals to complete a top-end rebuild.
My unasked questions:
Is the Vesrah Kit VG-175 a replacement for both Honda Gasket Kit A & Gasket Kit B?
If the Vesrah product is not worth it, where can I get the Honda Kits?
Are there any additional gaskets and/or seals that I must purchase in addition to the A and B kits?
I haven't found anything online yet that gives me part numbers for these Honda Gasket Kits, so pricing them have been next to impossible. The Vesrah Complete Gasket Kit VG-175 pricing ranges from $120 to $170 from online stores and I found them on eBay (currently bidding at $70). I was told that the Vesrah kits are high quality, better than OEM. I want to confirm if that statement is true by experts within the forum before I make any purchases. Thank you.
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24,255 Posts
I don't know the Vesrah kit you refer to but I've yet to see any CX gasket kit come with oil seals. Also, the coolant pump mechanical seal will be a separate purchase.
You will require the complete set for a full pull down and the top end set is included in the complete set, - ie, you won't need to buy the top end set as it is included in the full set.
I would expect the Vesrah set will contain all required 'O' rings though.
You will require the complete set for a full pull down and the top end set is included in the complete set, - ie, you won't need to buy the top end set as it is included in the full set.
I would expect the Vesrah set will contain all required 'O' rings though.
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3,847 Posts
Not sure of what kit does what as I make most of my own
and source O rings and oil seals independantly.
but I've had to do some mods on Vesrah head gaskets to get them to fit the dowels on the head
The Honda head gaskets fitted straight on.
The other Vesrah gaskets I was given were adequate enough
and source O rings and oil seals independantly.
but I've had to do some mods on Vesrah head gaskets to get them to fit the dowels on the head
The Honda head gaskets fitted straight on.
The other Vesrah gaskets I was given were adequate enough
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11 Posts
Yes, It says the oil seals aren't included. I still need help finding HONDA kits or suitable substitutes.
And directions to locating the coolant pump seal you mentioned would be appreciated too.
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3,847 Posts
I expect the Quick reference and wiki will have all the info you need
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1,456 Posts
If you have a local honda dealer you can go in or call and they will be able to help you find all the gaskets you want.
They might even be nice enough to help you find the complete set.
If you look in the general discussion section then look in the quick reference section you will be surprised how much about these jobs you will find. There are links for parts and engine jobs.
You may or may not know this but going to bold letters on a forum is roughly equal to shouting in normal conversation.
In other words unless you have a good reason you should avoid them.
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They might even be nice enough to help you find the complete set.
If you look in the general discussion section then look in the quick reference section you will be surprised how much about these jobs you will find. There are links for parts and engine jobs.
You may or may not know this but going to bold letters on a forum is roughly equal to shouting in normal conversation.
In other words unless you have a good reason you should avoid them.
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24,255 Posts
I can't find the info for where you fellers in the states are buying your mechanical seals [I'm in Oz and buy mine directly from a local manufacturer 5 at a time to get a price break] but generally you fellers are buying a Yamaha part.
As you're working on an '80 model [assuming from your sig. line] the seal won't be a drop in fit as Honda went to a slightly larger seal in [I think] '82 and this is the only size seal that can now be obtained.
There are 2 methods of dealing with this, one is to hog the rear case out to take the available seal. The second is the Shep method which is replacing the internal parts of the seal and leaving the outer shell in place.
If you have the equipment required I would hog out the rear cover as you are pulling your motor down anyway. The beauty of the Shep method being that it can be performed with the motor in bike.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=516&p=2585#p2585
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355
As you're working on an '80 model [assuming from your sig. line] the seal won't be a drop in fit as Honda went to a slightly larger seal in [I think] '82 and this is the only size seal that can now be obtained.
There are 2 methods of dealing with this, one is to hog the rear case out to take the available seal. The second is the Shep method which is replacing the internal parts of the seal and leaving the outer shell in place.
If you have the equipment required I would hog out the rear cover as you are pulling your motor down anyway. The beauty of the Shep method being that it can be performed with the motor in bike.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=516&p=2585#p2585
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355
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11 Posts
Hm... I was informed that typing in all caps was yelling/shouting and the bold lettering was to emphasize a point.If you have a local honda dealer you can go in or call and they will be able to help you find all the gaskets you want.
They might even be nice enough to help you find the complete set.
If you look in the general discussion section then look in the quick reference section you will be surprised how much about these jobs you will find. There are links for parts and engine jobs.
You may or may not know this but going to bold letters on a forum is roughly equal to shouting in normal conversation.
In other words unless you have a good reason you should avoid them.
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11 Posts
Thanks very much Reg!
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11 Posts
Thanks CXPHREAK. I don't think I'm ready to do the Shep method yet. Once I get more experience working on this CX, I will give it a go when I will start on my 2nd CX.
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