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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone successfully relined a turbo fuel tank. I am nervous about having the sealer puddle up somewhere and cause a problem later. It's impossible to drain the sealer out of the fuel filler hole because of the shape of it. Would like some tips from someone that has done it. My paint is perfect on the tank and don't want to screw that up. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
why does it need sealed?
Keep getting small particles of rust and debris in fuel petcock filter. Causes it to stumble on hard accelleration. Bike was parked for 22 years when I bought it and spent a whole day cleaning it. Just afraid to resealing it because I heard it's hard to drain all the sealant out
 

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I bit the bullet early and just resealed my tank that sat about the same time length as yours. Follow the directions exactly. EXACTLY. You have 2 petcock hole to drain out of. Regardless, the Factory used hole will build up sealer from the drain as you eluded to. I just used an engine galley cleaning wire brush on a drill to clean it out after it was dried. Worked fine. Rinsed the tank out with fuel afterwards. I have 400 miles on it now without an issue- 3 years total time after the seal procedure.
202508
 

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If it's not rusted so bad that it's leaking I'd first try knocking back all the rust with the ole' nuts and bolts trick. Remove the precious stuff like the petcock and sensor thing on the underside. Fill it with hot water and a bunch of small STEEL nuts and bolts. Shake the hell out of it and the hardware will essentially "sand" the interior and knock all the rust loose.

Use small stuff, like M8 nuts / <25mm bolts. Don't be afraid to really go at it. The water resistance will prevent them from denting the metal. STEEL hardware is important because when you've been trying to shake the last 1 or 2 out and they're being stubborn you can stick a magnet in there to fish them out.

Then just use it as usual. If it's going to sit for a while fill the tank with fuel and add stabilizer. It can't rust if there's fuel in it.

If you REALLY want to coat it use Red Kote and follow the instructions. Do not cut corners in the prep or it'll flake off. Wrap the filler cap in plastic wrap a few times so you can still use it to seal the top hole without the sealant getting inside the cap. Drain out the petcock hole and drain hole on the other side. You can use rubber stoppers to plug them while you're rotating the tank around to coat everything. I used Red Kote on an old Airhead tank that had 1" flakes coming off the inside of the tank. It's been problem free for 5 years now.

Or there's the nuclear option... bring it to a plating shop, kiss your paint goodbye and have them hot tank it then plate it. It'll eliminate all the rust and seal it off. Then send it out for a respray. This is obviously the most expensive concourse / museum quality restoration option.
 
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