[MadforitKev]

I know the CX has a slightly smaller tank (4.3l?) but has anyone tried using a fuel sender from a CX for a turbo tank?

 

[reclinedrelic]

Do you have a turbo fuel tank and the turbo fuel gauge already? If not consider using a capacitance fuel level sender such as this example PRINCETON CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES | Aircraft Spruce

 

[MadforitKev]

I do have a turbo tank and sender.

Looking at the old one last night, the thermistor housing at the end is badly corroded although the thermistor seems OK. There are replacements available (RL2004-582-97-D1).
The wire resistor wiper seems OK but again it is possible to rewire and as its old I might have a go. It looks like about 8ft of 32AWG (0.16mm) resistance wire. Basically if the wire length reads around 75 ohms it should be in the zone

 

[TonyG]

The only other cx model that has a fuel gauge is the euro model.

They appear similar but don't know if they are identical.

 

[MadforitKev]

My original sender had been left in the tank for 10+ years and was a bit sorry...

The little Can that holds the thermistor was completely rotted and the reserve fuel level thermistor was dead. The wire float resistor windings were OK but the wiper (attached to the float) was out of alignment and everything was caked in rust. So basically not working.
The thermistor has one end connected to the reserve light (which has +v the other side) and when the thermistor is allowed to heat up (no fuel in the little can), the resistance drops to zero grounding the light and making it light. The Can is there to provide fuel splash proofing and has 3 small holes in the base to let fuel in and out.

If a winding is broken on the float gauge it can be replaced with Nichrome wire (resistance wire). I measured the wire at 34AWG thickness and probably about 8ft in length. The resistance range on my gauge is from 15 to 125 ohms (I have seen as low as 15 to 75 on forums). Basically get some wire and cut to a length that reads (in my case) 125 ohms if you need to replace the winding.

A new replacement for the old thermisistor is...

One end solders to the connection wire that attached to the board base of the Can unit and the other end can go to any earth. It is normally soldered to the top of the Can but as my Can was gone, I used a rubber filter plug and made a small hole in the top to take a wire I soldered to one end of the thermistor and then connected to the chassis of the sender.

Seems to work.

Last task is the new 7v regulator to go with the fuel/temp gauge.

Its a work in progress so will post later.

 

[MadforitKev]

Quick update.
There is a good link to the 7v regulator issue here;

Temperature gauge - Honda CX and GL Wiki

motovillage.org

This uses a simple fixed 5v regulator and then bias's the ground reference with a LED to generate a near 7v output. Nice and simple. The 78S05 is a 2 amp regulator and as the fuel and temp meters only draw about 1/4 amp it is fine. I didn't bother with the fuse or the capacitor (the leads are short so the cap doesn't do much).

I wanted to use the original housing, so ground out all the encapsulate...

That way I could assemble all the original wiring etc. back in with the new regulator and it fits on the same mounts. The picture shows it un-potted. I decided to use a re-enter-able gel in case it goes again.

With the added bonus that I get an LED on the front now to show its working

 

[Rednax]

Do you have a turbo fuel tank and the turbo fuel gauge already? If not consider using a capacitance fuel level sender such as this example PRINCETON CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES | Aircraft Spruce

Had a look at this, like the concept. Repairing the thermistor on my 1200 fuel sender is a PITA. GW Docs has 7V regulator: Goldwing 7 Volt Regulator • goldwingdocs.com May be of help.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

Murray sells 7V regulators too. His price is much lower and he offers a discount to members of this forum

7 Volt Regulator for CX/GL – Murrays Carbs