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Discussion Starter #1
While starting on adjusting the valves on my 78 deluxe, I ran into a snag while trying to remove the 17mm engine inspection cover. I'm using a 6 point socket and it won't budge. As always, I'm paranoid that I'll round it off or snap the head. The current plan is to apply some penetrating oil tomorrow morning and ride it for a bit to see if the heat loosens it up. If it does, I'll cover up the inspection port and adjust the valves after it has cooled off for a day. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Any leads are greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Adam
 

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You're fairly safe with a 6 point socket, even on those caps. The caps are semi-hollow and I have twisted off the top, but it took a certain amount of stupidity, that I now hope I have overcome. You might try applying torque to loosen the cap and at the same time take a small hammer and tap, tap, tap on the end of the wrench. Sorta like making a slow impact wrench. Just apply enough torque that you would assume would loosen the cap, don't overdo it. A dozen or so taps should move the wrench enough to allow removal.
 

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I discarded several 12 point sockets and replaced them with 6 point sockets last week.
Sometimes you only get one chance at really stuck bolt or nut, one slip
and you are in big trouble.
 

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Penetration oil to use on this place makes no sens.
The o-ring avoids that the pen. oil comes to the thread.

To get the right position to adjust the valves:
5.th gear in and turn the rear wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tip on turning the wheel with the bike in 5th. I'm attempting to turn the crank inspection cover counter clockwise (lefty loosey?). It would be just my luck if its reverse threads.
 

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Thanks for the tip on turning the wheel with the bike in 5th. I'm attempting to turn the crank inspection cover counter clockwise (lefty loosey?). It would be just my luck if its reverse threads.
Yep
You're going the right way, but you're holding your mouth wrong.

Works some times! LoL!

OP,

How big is your ratchet/bar on your socket? 3/8" or 1/2" drive? You might need to talk (aka apply more pressure) to it a bit!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Two weeks later and I've tried to take a crack at it again. No dice on removing the crank inspection cover. To add to that, I'm having a rough time trying to turn the rear wheel by hand with the bike in 5th. My CX seems to be awfully moody with me. It's a shame this isn't something I can loose up with a warm bath :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nvm I set down my purse and put some grunt into it, the rear wheel is moving just fine.
 

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Taking the spark plugs out will make it a lot easier too.

Joel in the Couve
 

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+1 on the wrench and hammer combo. I use a rubber mallet. Works well on stuck bolts, and haven't rounded one off yet (that way).
 

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mine was stuck fast and the 17mm socket was rounding it off, so i walloped a 16mm onto it and hey pretso it came out, now need a new cover, $9 ebay
 

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You could try applying heat to the case around the cover with a torch. Since the case is aluminum it will expand the hole jsut a little bit. This should allow the cap to turn.

I'd apply torque to the cap and heat the case at the same time. Remember, circle the cap with the torch, don't leave it in one place. You're not trying to melt it, just trying to raise the temp of the case a couple hundred degrees in a localized area.
 

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You're fairly safe with a 6 point socket, even on those caps. The caps are semi-hollow and I have twisted off the top, but it took a certain amount of stupidity, that I now hope I have overcome. You might try applying torque to loosen the cap and at the same time take a small hammer and tap, tap, tap on the end of the wrench. Sorta like making a slow impact wrench. Just apply enough torque that you would assume would loosen the cap, don't overdo it. A dozen or so taps should move the wrench enough to allow removal.

Sorry i forgot the quote. Like i said applying torque while tapping with a hammer has almost always worked for me.
 
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