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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone i have a stumper well maybe only for me lol anyways. had to take rim off bike to get tire put on now bike back together passed inspection but now i notice every here and again that the front end feels like it wobbles from side to side a bit when decelerating and also front brake seems like it squeaking here and there. now i dont see a wirght on front tire could they forgot to balance this rim and tire. at 60 or 70 mph on the highway she is straight as an arrow. any ideas? what should i be looking for? thanks for any advice everything is tight that i removed which was only the tire and everything else is good or so it seems. thanks everyone
 

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I'd start with the basics, double check all bolts are at proper torque and the tire is at proper pressure. If it's a new tire it's possible it is'nt balanced correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Kingston, think thats what i am gonna do and plus call the bike shop on monday and see if they balanced it. i can almost remember seeing a wieght on front a small one last time i washed and cleaned the rim. i will be double checking all the head bolts and such anything in front end will get a second looking into. just wierd it started all of a sudden and if so. why did not the mechanic notice when he took her for a ride before inspection. makes ya wonder thats all for now thanks again
 

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Kingston, think thats what i am gonna do and plus call the bike shop on monday and see if they balanced it. i can almost remember seeing a wieght on front a small one last time i washed and cleaned the rim. i will be double checking all the head bolts and such anything in front end will get a second looking into. just wierd it started all of a sudden and if so. why did not the mechanic notice when he took her for a ride before inspection. makes ya wonder thats all for now thanks again
I would look at the wheel bearings and the axle assembly, washers, spacer and so on. It the axle is not assembled and torqued properly that could make the bike wobble and also make the brake act funny.

Any thing that was disturbed while putting on the tire could be the problem.
 

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( out of 10 times it is the steering head bearings that cause a deceleration wobble. Here is the procedure I wrote up a few years ago to check the steering head bearings.





Checking Head Bearings



This procedure is very hard to explain even though it is very easy to do ... If my directions don't do it for you ask a mentor to show you. I was showing someone earlier this month how to do it and discovered that my GL650I head bearings were shot!!! I had checked them at the beginning of the riding season, so that shows they can go out at almost anytime on anyone.



To check the head bearings have someone sit on the back of the bike so the rear wheel is firmly on the ground.



Then go to the front of the bike and kneel down in front of it and grab both lower forks firmly with your hands. Pull slowly forward and push slowly backwards feeling for any movement. Be sure that you are no compressing the springs at all and confusing that with movement back and forth. This tells you if the bearings are loose and need adjusting. Sometimes it can also show that the forks are worn out ... so if you aren't sure ask someone who knows to test them for you.



To test for shot bearings (Not the same as loose bearings) while that person is on the back of the bike by putting one finger very lightly on top of or on the end of the handgrip of the bike. Then move the handlebars every so slowly (about a minute lock to lock) back and forth feeling for a very slight notch or stop in the rotation of the bar. It is usually very near to having the wheels straight ahead that you will normally find the notching effect. If you feel it drop into a notch that means the bearings are shot and need replacing.



You can have loose bearings and not have them shot, but you cannot have notched bearings without them being shot.



I hope this doesn't confuse you ... if it does I always recommend that you find a mentor to help you and when you become equal to that mentor you become a mentor to someone else.
 

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I agree with the 'check everything' comments

it wont hurt and wobble on decelleration sounds more like

assembly errors or wheel/head bearings then tyre to me

Also, theres a sequence in fitting a front wheel in order to get it right

the two nuts on the bottom legs get done last.

you need to use a 17mm spanner on the flat of the axle as you tighten the

main nut to get the wheel aligned properly

then when its all aligned, you can then pinch up the clamp nuts

I learnt this by experience when I had a disk scuffing the caliper.
 

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If it only seems to happen at deceleration (assume your using the front brake) and the brake squeels a bit (again assuming front brake) it may be the brake pads causing the wobble, especially if the rim or the disk arnt "true" . Does the wobble still happen if you dont touch your front brakes ? Just a quick test that might (kid had this problem on his shaddow and turned out to be the disc that wasnt true (inner hub the disc bolts too was a bit off, making the pad grab and release as the disc went around).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok so i took tire back off and checked everything out again. pads look great, rotor looks good so i took the rotor off and hit it with some 320 wet sand paper gave it a five minute run around on both sides put sander on flat surface and made sure they were good to then it was off to the caliper compressed and released a few times shot of wd40 around the piston in & out a few more times. now up to the res. cracked it open and what a mess. murky chocolate liquid. so off to parts store for brake fluid ( synthetic? hmmm learned thats all they make now for brake fluid ) well learned somesomething new today. so pumped out the old cleaned res real good flushed res and lines till it ran nice and cleaned got iar out and no more sticky caliper. no squeaks and front tire spins smooth again. the brake lever has some action to it now it dont feel like a rock when i hit the brake. well sorry for the ramble but figured i would explain. now i only get a bit of wobble around 35mph with hands just slightly off grips after i throttle down and just rolling( i know but it was a test ) so monday i will go and see if they even balanced the tire anyway. it used to have a small wieght on the front that is no longer there.Now the bearings i will have to do that test when i have a second body available. thanks everyone for the tips she cruises very nice again..
 

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Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water. The diaphram at the top of the master cylinder is to minimize the exposure of the fluid to the water in the air. Brake fluid should be chganged every few years or the accumilated water will rot holes in the aluminum walls of the master and/or slave cylinders and cause leaks. Moving brake parts contaminate the fluid with particulates as well. Change it every three years unless the exposure is severe and then more often. Brake hydraulic systems can last a lifetime if the fliud is kept clean and dry.

Capt Frank
 

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All good advice above.



I always do a,"Spring" pre-season front pad/brake service.Once you have done it a couple of times it's quick and easy.



Remove pads.Place some 180 wet and dry or similar on a,"Glass Flat" surface and rub the corrosion and crud off the rear of the pads and corrosion treat.Then take do the same to the pad friction surface to take the glaze off.If you suspect the pads are contaminated soak with Carb/Brake cleaner and then boil in an old pan with some water and washing up liquid/washing soda crystals for a good half-an-hour.

Dry off and re-fit.

On re-fit I use a bit of,"Shoe Goo" on the rear of the pads as an anti-squeal,



http://cgi.ebay.com/3-7-oz-Shoe-Goo...085?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4a988517ad



and also to stick the anti-squeal plate to the pad(Makes the job easy).



I change my Brake fluid every other year if not sooner.My local Supermarket does Dot 4 dead cheap.The original Manual recommends Dot 3 but this has been superseded.



HTH
 

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Brakes out of round can cause surging, but not wobble. I'll put money on the head bearings.
 

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I agree with the 'check everything' comments

it wont hurt and wobble on decelleration sounds more like

assembly errors or wheel/head bearings then tyre to me

Also, theres a sequence in fitting a front wheel in order to get it right

the two nuts on the bottom legs get done last.

you need to use a 17mm spanner on the flat of the axle as you tighten the

main nut to get the wheel aligned properly

then when its all aligned, you can then pinch up the clamp nuts

I learnt this by experience when I had a disk scuffing the caliper.


Can Reg or somebody elaborate on this, for me? I was assuming that torquing the axle nut centered the wheel. Am I understanding correctly that there is an adjustment based on the position of the flats on the other side of the axle? Thanks in advance...



-Nathan
 

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If you put synthetic brake fluid in there, you are asking for trouble. Use DOT3,4 or 5,1, not DOT 5. It could really mess with the system.

This was one of the things that Marshall put so much time into researching while he was with us. It is definitely best to stick with standard brake fluid.



Joel in the Couve
 
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