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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, finally got the fan off (yea Brafaco for my bolt) and removed the front cover and tach cover. Well, looks like my goal of a working tach is gone, as the worm gear on the cam shaft is the ones thats shot
Well, ran without a tack for 2 years, not big deal until I get my digital one done.









Now it time to do some pump work. I noticed that the chain on the oil pump is a bit loose, not sure if that is a sign I should replace it or if its on? Doesnt seem to be anyway of tightening it up, no adjustment visible.









Also, Im not sure if this is normal, but it seems the two gears on the crank that mesh with the clutch gears seem to be "squewed"? Is this normal to tighten up the teeth gap, or has something slipped... manual is really vauge unless im looking in the wrong spot.

















Well, while I wait for someone who knows this stuff I will give the case inside a cleaning and work on removing and cleaning the oil pump.
 

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Loosen the screw a bit for the oil pump and push it to the right side to tighten up the chain. There's not much movement there but there are slots built into the pump.



The split primary gear is normal. No worries there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great
will check to see if the manual has a "replace chain when this much slack is on it" figure or messurement, if it seems ok will do that once I get it cleaned up a bit.
 

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There is very little difference between a new oil pump chain and an old one.Check the slack allowed in the manual.Some people have reamed out the holes to get the chain tighter.This is bad practice.So long as you can get the recommend play(Yes there is supposed to be play) and the chain does not hit the Clutch basket you are OK.However as a matter of course and with the age of the bikes I recommend you replace the chain anyway for it's reasonable cost.



My 2 cents.



PS



As for the Tach as taking a cam-shaft out is a pretty involved job I'd go with a Digital Tach as you have planned.I do have to ask myself though what has caused the premature wear of the Cam-shaft Tach worm drive.Hopefully it was just lazy maintenance of the PO or could even have been a faulty really unbalanced Mechanical fan.

If you are going with an electric fan the there will be less load on that area so that's a plus
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, checked the oil pump, its perfect (according to book), cleaned the screen (got a bit of debris of of it, none of it metalic, more like gasket type bits the size of small sand grains. Engine inside was really clean and no debris at the bottom at all.



Im now ready to put the front cover back on, as there is nothing left to do inside, and had a question for the wise guru's here. I have new gaskets (there agreen color, came in a complete engine set) and I was wondering whats the best way to put them on. I have heard people say to coat them with a film of clean oil, other say soak in oil, some say gasket goop .... What is everyones opinion on the best way. I would like to not "seal" it so IF I have to remove it again I would still be able to use the gasket (in case something goes wrong and I have to pull and check)



Thanks all
 

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I put a thin film of clean engine oil on them if they are new or in good condition.This allows for removal should it be needed at a later date and they may survive.I do tend to make my own unless I happen to have any needed ones in any of the gasket sets I've bought over the years but that's not often now
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Shep. I bought a full set 2 years ago when I stripped the bke down but really onbly used the head gaskets when I checked the cylinder condition and lapped my valves. Since I still have whats left over I decided to pull both front and rear (tripple bypass) covers and do some house cleaning. I can now put the front back on, but the rear will need to wait until the seals get here (both oil and mech).



As for the tach, since the worm gear on the cam shaft is toast (ground off more than likely from a jammed cable) I will remove the tach cable (BTW, HATE that !$$# phillips screw) and tach housing worm gear and plug the hole off so I dont get oil leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks nice but I am going to go a different method for two reasons. First, someone correct me if Im wrong, but I have heard that our engines are NOT the same as a car engine (1 plug fire per cyclinder per revolution of the CAM shaft) as they spark TWICE per cam rev (one being on the discrage potion of the cycle).



Now, wouldnt that mean a tach like this would read an RPM twice as fast as it REALY is ???



Second, since my speedometer (on my 6th one) has no working trip meter (at least it registers and only whins a little) and seem to die a lot on me, I replacing the "guts" of both guages with "digital boards". This way I can keep the original look with digital guts that work. It also allows me to put a voltmeter in the tach as well as the temp guage.
 
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