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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My front brake was not working as in the piston was stuck in so there were no front brakes. My senses got the better of me and decided I should probably have a front brake so I tore all apart and put it back together. Of course the piston is now working and all new fluid and air bubbles purged, but,now it sticks somewhat as if the pads are not retracting the whole way in. Also, I put new fork seals in and new fluid but the forks seem really weak now, any quick fix for the forks? thanks wilburj
 

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Two things primarily cause pads not to retract. The square O rings in the caliper that the piston goes in must be clean and good. The groove that the ring sets in must also be very clean of all crud and deposits. The second thing is a tiny fluid return hole in the master cylinder must be open. There are two holes in the bottom. One about the size of pencil lead, the other very tiny. You might be able to get a high E guitar string thru it. Maybe even smaller. It sets under the reservoir and you may not be able to access it without removing the reservoir.



And to remove the reservoir, you need to pry up on the ends and hope it doesn't crack. Then probably get a new O ring for it too. If you are determined to remove the reservoir, use two putty knives, one under each end. Then try prying them up at the same time. This probably won't work, so then wedge two screwdrivers between the knives and the metal bottom and pry again. The knives distribute the force across the width of the plastic and prevent it from cracking. They are pretty tough, but can be broken.



I don't know about your forks. Did you replace the fluid with ATF or 20wt fork oil? Did you have two 4" springs left over? Do you have air forks?



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The tiny return hole under the M/C reservoir that Blue fox is talking about is really hard to see if there is any gunk built up, and is very easy to clog. Trying to solve the same problem I had my M/C apart maybe 3 times before I even noticed it. and I could not get a wire to pass thru the hole (I used a piano wire) no matter how hard I worked at it the wire just bent. So I just drilled thru with 1/32 drillbit than polished off the burr in the bore with some rolled up emery cloth has worked perfectly since.
 

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Had the same problem, and after cleaning EVERYTHING and putting on a new master cylinder and brake line, found that the shims were not placed properly. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Had the same problem, and after cleaning EVERYTHING and putting on a new master cylinder and brake line, found that the shims were not placed properly. Just a thought.
I am not sure what you mean by "shims". thanks wilburj
 

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I've seen this problem many times. If you open the bleeder and it frees the wheel, it's the bleed off hole (closest to brake line). It is a very small hole, that can be drilled larger. I use a .032 pin drill. If it still drags it's probably crud in the seal groove. To clean it right you need a tool to scrap the side you can't see. I ground one from a spoke.

Well that's my 2$, good luck. If it was easy everyone could do it.
 

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I've got the same problem! And I have the same question! What "shims"?
 

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There are three shims on the front brake. One is an anti-squeal plate that fits over the outermost pad, and the two that caused my problems ride on either side of the caliper with the rotor in between them. Looking at the service manual unfortunately does not address these two. It has a picture showing one of them, but doesn't address them. In any event, I had failed to place them properly which allowed them to move about and caused my caliper to not retract fully. Having removed and aligned everything three times with the rotor still getting too hot to touch within 100 yards was frustrating. An old Honda mechanic took a look, placed them properly and bingo - everything worked as designed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There are three shims on the front brake. One is an anti-squeal plate that fits over the outermost pad, and the two that caused my problems ride on either side of the caliper with the rotor in between them. Looking at the service manual unfortunately does not address these two. It has a picture showing one of them, but doesn't address them. In any event, I had failed to place them properly which allowed them to move about and caused my caliper to not retract fully. Having removed and aligned everything three times with the rotor still getting too hot to touch within 100 yards was frustrating. An old Honda mechanic took a look, placed them properly and bingo - everything worked as designed.
Me thinks perhaps this be my problem as well----more news later. thank you for that tid bit wilburj
 

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There are three shims on the front brake. One is an anti-squeal plate that fits over the outermost pad, and the two that caused my problems ride on either side of the caliper with the rotor in between them. Looking at the service manual unfortunately does not address these two. It has a picture showing one of them, but doesn't address them. In any event, I had failed to place them properly which allowed them to move about and caused my caliper to not retract fully. Having removed and aligned everything three times with the rotor still getting too hot to touch within 100 yards was frustrating. An old Honda mechanic took a look, placed them properly and bingo - everything worked as designed.
I had a similar problem. Try repositioning pads and clips. Also, how is your fluid level? I left mine a tad low and that cleared my problem. Sticking has not returned and brakes work as well as a single pot single caliper could.
 

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I had a sticking brake caliper on an '82 CX500 I used to own. After disassembling everything and thoroughly cleaning each piece, problem persisted. Solution was purchasing a caliper rebuild kit. I guess my old caliper piston seals had lost their oomph or gotten stiff over time. The new piston seals made a world of difference too, by lightening the squeeze pressure required to apply the brakes.
 
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