Forgot to mention I did shorten the shell with my dremel, I wanted the bottom of the casing flush with the bottom of the lever.As far as the cable end goes when you are using a .22 shell, do you put the cable in the shell at a 90 degree angle?
Haha I played around with stickers on my daily driver, in the position I wanted them and felt comfortable with these. The horn and turn signals are the same distance on my GS when you add the bulk of the controls casing.Looks nice, but you must have LONG thumbs to reach all those buttons...
I recently shortened my first clutch cable ever.Still have to shorten the clutch cable and make a housing for the water temp gauge but cockpit is looking good!
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Just did mine as well. I suggest using muriatic acid as flux (don’t dip above the top of the new nub). Also I found the dip method using a copper cap and a propane torch to make a solder puddle to be very simple to executeI recently shortened my first clutch cable ever.
I used the advice I read where you use a .22 shell, drill a hole, fill with solder. It worked amazing.
can you elaborate a little more?Also I found the dip method using a copper cap and a propane torch to make a solder puddle to be very simple to execute
Get a copper pipe cap from the hardware store. Put it in a vice and fill with solder wire. Use a propane torch on the bottom of the cap to melt the solder into a pool. You can then dip the cable end directly into a pool of liquid solder instead of risking annealing the steel cable by trying to heat the cable end directly to melt the solder.can you elaborate a little more?