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Discussion Starter #141
Thanks CXPHREAK and Randall! It was as you said, I got nervous, I've been finding threads I wish I'd read prior to reassembly, I never tested my thermostat and sending unit and I'm thinking I may drop the motor again... I'll finish this thing one day but better for it to be done correctly than to hope for the best. Time to start reading about in-bike testing of thermostat/sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
I think, short of dropping and blindly replacing the thermostat and sending unit which I cant afford/why replace working parts, I'm going to have to wait until the bikes running to confirm that these are in order.

Helpful reads:
Testing sending unit vs gauge:

Potential replacement sending unit:

Attached a screenshot of Murrays sending unit replacement method. On to electrical.

Build To do:
  • Cut rear fender ( I have a trailer fender to hack up)
  • Fab tray/battery box
  • Sell kidney to buy Li Battery
  • Harness (current harness is rats nest started by PO and expanded on by me)
  • Fab seat pan/cut seat foam (I've done one fiber glass pan that came out reasonably well though my budget these days is leaning towards plywood)
  • Brake fluid, coolant, Oil, pre start checks
Thanks again everyone who has helped me get this far, I was losing steam before I found this forum - you guys are first class!
 

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I never tested my thermostat and sending unit and I'm thinking I may drop the motor again...
BTW, there's no need to drop the engine to replace the thermostat.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Nolimitiz I did clean the thermostat, replaced the big o-ring, the small oring in the sending unit and all the water pipe orings - just neglected to test the parts and feeling foolish!

Thanks Randall, this will be helpful once wiring is completed and I can start the debugging process.
 

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Test your thermostat and temp gauge by reality check and reasonable expectation.

Warm the bike in the shed. What does the gauge say? If all seems normal it likely is conditional of the gauge receiving 7 volts.

A quick and dirty test is to ground the wire running to the sender. The gauge needle should swing to maximum.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I think i know what the response will be but is it really F'ing stupid to set up with out a temp gauge? That would simplify my harness by removing 7v reg and save having to purchase a separate temp gauge, the bike came without any gauges but I purchased the dime city tach w/o temp indicator
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Ill try and find one I can afford right now, combing the forum for small affordable gauges. So far the Equus is winning as far as price/quality/size.
 

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You could add a temperature switch and warning light. The switch would be a normally open switch which would close at warning temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
ReclinedRelic, would temp switch+warning light eliminate the need for the 7V reg? Either way I like this idea a lot thank you!
 

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It would, this would run of the 12 volt system. It wouldn't work with the stock temperature sender however unless some sort of electrical circuit were added.
The important thing is to not run an overheating engine, that is why some form of monitoring is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Settling on the Equus I think - with this adapter. Trying to suss an alternate mounting location, I know it needs to be visible in a riding position but trying to keep the gauge cluster on the bars clean if possible.

Looking at something off the rad? Anyone see any creative solutions out there?
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Radiator got a chemical bath and leaks fixed, mounting today. Also going to try shortening the clutch cable - I've read ALOT of opinions on the safety, cost-saving/risk of doing this and I think its something I want to try - I have the solder flux and 7mm steel rod already so if I HAVE to order a motion pro cable down the line, I might as well learn something new along the way. I saw some really interesting methods on Do The Ton etc such as drilling into a 2x4 the diameter of the barrel, then drilling perpendicularly the diameter of the cable, filling with solder and chiseling it all out! I will be trying this method (drilling out the frayed end side of the barrel to make space for the frayed cable/solder
:

200880
 

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Steel doesn't solder well does it?

I use .22 bullet shells - fired of course.

I cut it to length, drill a hole for the cable in the middle, poke the cable in and mushroom it inside the shell and heat the shell and feed in the solder.

Fits both throttle and clutch.

You're right, it's better to learn to shorten your own cables then buggerise around trying to order something.
 
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