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That guy would be Marshall Franklin, a recently deceased member of this forum. R.I.P.



See the related posts in this forum section.



I don't know how long that site will remain online. It would be a good idea to download anything of interest soon.
 

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I wonder if Blindstitch should preserve them in the Quick Reference section. With credit to Marshall duly noted.
 

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Some truly useful information . May his soul rest in peace and I prey he still rides in spirit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wonder if Blindstitch should preserve them in the Quick Reference section. With credit to Marshall duly noted.
I've downloaded the entire contents there, I can send a zip file to whoever would like it. Looks like this Marshall was a great guy and I'm sorry to hear that I missed him.
 

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if his schem is correct then there's only 10 caps in the circuit. if one could get all the rubber out/off the board it shouldn't be a big deal to just change those out. but i do have to say, without seeing the values on there that there's some odd things to me. there's no reason to run two resistors in parallel or series unless you don't have the proper wattage or resistance. i would think honda would have access to the exact resistor values they need. just seems odd to me.
 

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I seem to recall that there was a schematic with part values somewhere on the net with some write ups on how another CX owner was building the CDI. I think it was on the old drop.io site; maybe it's buried in the link Blindstitch has the files in? I'd have to dig around to find it on my PC's.



I also made a copy of the files from Marshall's site. I am looking over the circuit he designed for the fan controller. I was thinking a simple comparator circuit would work OK for the fan, using the temp gauge voltage to be the input. Marshall's is using some additional circuits for a "coin slope" (?), a meter amp circuit (logical) that would be calibrated for Fahrenheit or Celsius; and fault indicator (reason ?). Might have to re-read his posts to see what he had in mind unless someone here knows already.



EDIT: just read the html web page with the notes on it. It's clearer now.
 

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This is the circuit I researched several years ago when 1st doing my electric Fan conversions.It's taken from a PC fan control system but would work using it's thermistor.



http://www.heatsink.info/content.php?content=control.shtml



I even bought the components to make a couple but because both my simple Temp sensors systems work well I didn't bother making one.
 

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This is the circuit I researched several years ago when 1st doing my electric Fan conversions.It's taken from a PC fan control system but would work using it's thermistor.



http://www.heatsink.info/content.php?content=control.shtml



I even bought the components to make a couple but because both my simple Temp sensors systems work well I didn't bother making one.


I got the thermal switches from fleabay like you mentioned Shep. Still haven't gotten the electric fan conversion done yet, but I may be able to knock it out the next time I'm @ home. I like the simplicity of a mechanical switch, but the tinkerer in me still wants to build the complex circuit.
 

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I got the thermal switches from fleabay like you mentioned Shep. Still haven't gotten the electric fan conversion done yet, but I may be able to knock it out the next time I'm @ home. I like the simplicity of a mechanical switch, but the tinkerer in me still wants to build the complex circuit.


I'm the same.It took me months of searching to find that circuit and then I never used it<grin>
 

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if his schem is correct then there's only 10 caps in the circuit. if one could get all the rubber out/off the board it shouldn't be a big deal to just change those out. but i do have to say, without seeing the values on there that there's some odd things to me. there's no reason to run two resistors in parallel or series unless you don't have the proper wattage or resistance. i would think honda would have access to the exact resistor values they need. just seems odd to me.


Dean, I have seen multiple resistor strings across diodes before. That is common practice done in a lot of high voltage circuits. This circuit has a couple of different RC time components in it that is used to determine timing for the low idle, fast idle and dwell settings.



All of which is programmed into the Ignitech modules that are available to us in a CX specific model.
 

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if his schem is correct then there's only 10 caps in the circuit. if one could get all the rubber out/off the board it shouldn't be a big deal to just change those out. but i do have to say, without seeing the values on there that there's some odd things to me. there's no reason to run two resistors in parallel or series unless you don't have the proper wattage or resistance. i would think honda would have access to the exact resistor values they need. just seems odd to me.




Well, THAT is one of the problems with trying to disect and "clone" existing hardware. Yes, normally a munufacturer WOULD have access to actual values required, but you are ASSUMING that the person who disected the CDI and made the schematic got it right. Chances are one of the resistors ISNT a resistor at all, but something else. I worked MANY years in the electronic mfg indistry and know a few things for sure



1 - most large companies use "house branded parts" for things they make. this makes cloning very hard

2 - many components can LOOK like a resistor, and even color coded like one, when it actually isnt (could be a coil, diode,cap.... many things)

3 - many companies use "0 ohm" resistors that are marked with all sorts of normal resistor color marking. The actually arnt a resistor, just a wire jumper that LOOKS like one.



So, while the schematic does look resonable and is probabaly 95-99.9% correct, without actually "disecting" a original CDI AND confirming EVERY component, the diagram shown may NOT work (as I have heard many have tried cloning the CDI, and NONE of them worked ).... that should tell you something
 

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This reminds me of a box I have in the kitchen

( dont ask)

I was looking into CDIs and stuff before I changed to TI and

Ignitech came along, then lost interest.



 

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I've downloaded the entire contents there, I can send a zip file to whoever would like it. Looks like this Marshall was a great guy and I'm sorry to hear that I missed him.


I emailed you about a zip. I might have room for it somewhere. It's small data wise.
 

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This reminds me of a box I have in the kitchen

( dont ask)

I was looking into CDIs and stuff before I changed to TI and

Ignitech came along, then lost interest.







That's sick but been there done that. The only thing I kept was the shell and white/blue wire connector.
 
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