[theRatBiker]

Pulled apart my forks this weekend to do the 20W swap...Inside the fork (looking down into it), There is a short spring (6"?), then a washer, then a long spring. Is this normal? The manual shows a single spring, seat and washer. Some weird aftermarket upgrade? Sorry I put it back together without taking a picture.



I've entertained the idea that the original springs broke, but the size is exactly the same on both sides and they are finished smooth.



The suspension has always felt fine but should I be concerned by the lack of spring seats?







P.S. Thanks for all the advice everyone, did the re-jetting and carb sync this weekend too. Might be a rat bike but that doesn't mean it can't run well!

 

[LowLife1220]

yeah its supposed to have 2 springs. i thought the same thing last week when i did my seals, i thought the springs were broken.

 

[theRatBiker]

yeah its supposed to have 2 springs. i thought the same thing last week when i did my seals, i thought the springs were broken.

does the order matter? little one on top right? I don't trust the PO

 

[LowLife1220]

yes small spring at the top of the fork tube

 

[kingston73]

The order doesn't matter, but if the short one is on the bottom it can squeak sometimes.  The long/short was sort of a cheap progressive spring.  If you like your suspension as-is all good, but if you'd like it a bit more tight you can add a preload spacer to the top of the forks, people have had good luck using either pvc or metal tubing, or even valve springs from a car.  That and heavy wt fork oil make a huge difference.

 

[lucky]

wow so i take it all forks are the same because thats how it was on my old 69 yamaha ct1

 

[Abes_CW]

does the order matter? little one on top right? I don't trust the PO

I will disagree about this. I believe it does matter.



Short one does go on the top, It is basically a pre-load. It carries the weight of the bike, and is the softest spring.



The long spring is tapered with tighter coils at one end. The tighter coils go at the top.



Why it matters is energy travel is linear. You hit a bump and the energy travels from the hub up the fork to the handlebar. On its way it will first compress the looser coils nearest the bottom of the fork, increasing the time for the energy to dissipate before arriving at the handlebars.



The PO of my 650 had the springs in reversed and upside down, and it caused a squirmy feeling cornering with light bumps.

 

[Abes_CW]

wow so i take it all forks are the same because thats how it was on my old 69 yamaha ct1

Nope. HD springs are single springs, and non progressive they are identical in coil from top to bottom, which is why everyone thinks "progressive springs" are the way to go, even though our bikes already have them.

 

[lucky]

ok i should of put that all the jap bikes i have owned were dual springs lol

 

[Abes_CW]

ok i should of put that all the jap bikes i have owned were dual springs lol

There ya go.

 

[lucky]

hey i am a blonde ok at least i knew what i meant......i have no idea why i typed all forks were dual when i know for a fact that is not the case....only jap bikes were dual springs

 

[Blindstitch]

The only bikes that have one spring should be ones with progressive fork springs. But even with them they have a rolled tight end and a looser end and a paper says that using the one end a certain way can cause squeaking.

 

[theRatBiker]

Thanks! Not sure I put the big spring in the right direction but at least i can check that without pulling the tubes!



Probably no spacer for me, I can barely get the fork cap on as-is...I'm only 150 lbs anyway.

 

[vanmor]

The manual says to put the tapered end down. I put mine together like that but I wondered if it would have been better the other way.