[lucky]

ok well i found out tonight that my fork seals are blown and i am pissed and i think i know why also when i changed the rear tire my friend told me to use his lift and he then strapped the bike down but compressed the forks all the way down so i get on the bike tonight and i have one hell of a rough ride so i look at it and oil all over the forks so all in all its not fun.....but if any one has insight as to how long it takes to redo the seals please let me know and also a cheap place that seals them as a pair and i also believe i have to undo the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks right?? and i am going to replace the oil with hypod gear oil (the same stuff you put in a differential on a pick up truck) unless that will not work so ideas??

 

[bandit]

bit to read here lucky

http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/37528/showPost.aspx

its not a hard job,1st time,takes a morning.

 

[Doc]

Did mine on my CX650 in less then 3 hours. Seals cost about $28.00, and I used PRO HONDA SUSPENSION FLUID - SS-8 10W.

 

[Retroben]

Man don't use hypoid gear oil! Wrong stuff. Factory fluid was ATF. Change to 20wt fork oil when you change the seals.

Use Bandit's link above (I added some to that, you'll see my bitching when I encountered some complications). Just take your time. Keep those top caps pushed down as you unscrew them. You'll figure it out. Seals are on fleabay.

 

[LowLife1220]

total time minus the time to get parts ( needed new clips) was about an hour. the fsm is hugely helpful in this case. any special tools needed can be overcome. my biggest problem was the old e clip was rusted in place and i had to break them out with a flat blade chisel. after i put everything together i had to hammer the new clip back in with a section of pvc to get it to snap into place. i also cheaped out and used atf but it worked.

 

[Shep]

Also use,"Bandit's" tip using the old fork seal on top of the new seal so it doesn't get damaged when you drive it down.Also smear some fork oil on it's inner and outer faces to help it slide in.If fitted dry they can tear within a few miles(BTSTGTTS).



Remember also Letters on the seal face you,spring forward towards the fork inner.

 

[lucky]

now then do i have to take off the headlight i would have to assume i would right?? also keep in mind my manuals have got up and walked away so i will be asking questions as the time comes so now i have to wait until my wife gets paid to order the seals well time to get busy

 

[morrow]

Just don't bother following the Honda manual and other manuals which say to slide the new fork seal over the tube and pound it in --- super unnecessary. Go ahead and install it THEN slide the fork tube thru the newly installed seal.

 

[lucky]

and that will work?? i have never heard of doing it that way before and thank you sb i had bookmarked that link last night when i was doing a search for the fork seals

 

[Shep]

Here's a decent thread,



http://australiancx.asn.au/forum/index.php?topic=3228.0;highlight=fork+seal

 

[lucky]

ok well i thank you shep on that link i guess all it takes is to tear the bike down and get those seals out and then replace them......so i guess i will need an air ratchet with a 6 mm hex bolt or do you think a few good wackes with a BFH would do the trick?? i will be getting the parts probably next week or so from the bay

 

[Shep]

ok well i thank you shep on that link i guess all it takes is to tear the bike down and get those seals out and then replace them......so i guess i will need an air ratchet with a 6 mm hex bolt or do you think a few good wackes with a BFH would do the trick?? i will be getting the parts probably next week or so from the bay

I find it easier in the long run to remove the front brake calliper(Makes it easy to get the front wheel back in later).Then remove the forks but undo the Allen bolt whilst the springs are still in and compressed.This stops the Allen bolt from moving when trying to get it out.A quick thwack with a rubber mallet or similar on the Allen key usually does it.

Then when the Allen bolt is back in and the fork springs are compressed you can tighten it back up.

 

[lucky]

ok this sounds like fun.........not but hey it needs to be done so i have to do it

 

[Shep]

ok this sounds like fun.........not but hey it needs to be done so i have to do it

It's not hard but you really need vice if you can get to use one.The hardest part I find is getting the Tops back on the forks.I use a rag on my hand to stop the pressure biting into my hand as I press the caps down and screw them down being really careful not to,"Cross-Thread".

 

[lucky]

access to tools isnt a problem its just finding the time and getting the parts

 

[Silent-Knight]

I did mine in about an hour after I rounded up all the stuff I needed. I did not have a seal driver, but I found a piece of wood that ended up working out really well. I used Honda's 10W fork oil and I love the ride now. I did not remove anything but the wheel, axle, brakes and forks to do mine using a motorcycle lift.

 

[lucky]

man o man i love this site i just got of the phone with the stealership and they told me that honda never used ATF in there forks and that i had no idea what the hell i was talking about and the guy told me that he has worked on honda bikes for about 30 yrs and he also said i should only use 5wt fork oil screw that i am at least going use 10 or 20 wt oil and the seals are going to cost me around 20 bucks so i am not sure yet if i am going to go that route or just get them off the bay

 

[morrow]

man o man i love this site i just got of the phone with the stealership and they told me that honda never used ATF in there forks and that i had no idea what the hell i was talking about and the guy told me that he has worked on honda bikes for about 30 yrs and he also said i should only use 5wt fork oil screw that i am at least going use 10 or 20 wt oil and the seals are going to cost me around 20 bucks so i am not sure yet if i am going to go that route or just get them off the bay

This is the kind of "help" the automotive industry these days offers 95% of the time...completely false and/or limited and bias information. I don't purchase anything for my motorcycle or car unless I get part numbers from a community website or forum first.

 

[Bryan]

Best piece of advice to avoide coss-threading came from Larry. Prior to putting the springs in, find where the threads engage and mark the spot on both the cap and the fork with a Sharpie. That way when you're pressing the cap down with pressure, you can back it off a bit from that spot and know where the threads will engage.

 

[lucky]

thank god for friends ok well blindstitch just saved me one hell of a head ache i was going to get the seals that were 33x46x11 and i guess that is WRONG for my bike so he told me that i need to get 35x48x11 so i guess i will call the shops tomorrow and see if they have those in stock but they did have the 33x46x11 in stock and at 26.bucks out the door and in my hand i thought that was a good price unlike the stealer ship telling me 18 bucks per seal and a 10 day wait time.....so i hope i can get these other seals just as quick