[Silent-Knight]

I was out riding the other day and I noticed that my left fork seal was leaking. I've only had the bike two years. I remember going over a pretty big bump at an intersection and hit it pretty hard. Is it possible that that fork seal got back driven when it bottomed out? Can it be reset or should I replace it?



Also, what does everybody use for a fork seal driver? If I remembered right, couldn't we use a piece of pvc to drive it it? If so, can anyone remember the size pvc they used?



I guess now would be a good time to put that 20W I keep putting off.



Thanks in advance,



Silent

 

[LRCXed]

There's not anything to hit the bottom of the seal when and if you bottom out the fork. It's just time to replace them. With your model forks you don't have to use a pipe to drive the seals in over the fork tubes. You can install the seals without the tubes in the lowers. I use dish washing liquid like the Honda manual suggests so they slip in easier. It works better than anything else I have tried. A large socket that just fits inside the area where the seal slides into will do just fine to drive in the seal. Just make sure it covers the outside edge of the seal where the metal edge is. Be sure to use a bit of grease to lube the inside of the new seals lip. It will keep the seals from wearing out prematurely.

 

[Silent-Knight]

There's not anything to hit the bottom of the seal when and if you bottom out the fork. It's just time to replace them. With your model forks you don't have to use a pipe to drive the seals in over the fork tubes. You can install the seals without the tubes in the lowers. I use dish washing liquid like the Honda manual suggests so they slip in easier. It works better than anything else I have tried. A large socket that just fits inside the area where the seal slides into will do just fine to drive in the seal. Just make sure it covers the outside edge of the seal where the metal edge is. Be sure to use a bit of grease to lube the inside of the new seals lip. It will keep the seals from wearing out prematurely.

Just to make sure I get this right, I can remove the upper tubes, install the seals and then put the tubes in while the seal and the clip are in place? Is this what are you saying or am I mis-interpreting it? I just want to make sure, there is nothing worse than dong a job twice, especially one that "sounds" easy.



By the way, do I need a really long hex to get out the oil plug at the bottom?

 

[Stubby]

Just to make sure I get this right, I can remove the upper tubes, install the seals and then put the tubes in while the seal and the clip are in place? Is this what are you saying or am I mis-interpreting it? I just want to make sure, there is nothing worse than dong a job twice, especially one that "sounds" easy.



By the way, do I need a really long hex to get out the oil plug at the bottom?

I used a regular hex key on both of my GL's.

 

[morrow]

Just to make sure I get this right, I can remove the upper tubes, install the seals and then put the tubes in while the seal and the clip are in place? Is this what are you saying or am I mis-interpreting it? I just want to make sure, there is nothing worse than dong a job twice, especially one that "sounds" easy.

Yes.

By the way, do I need a really long hex to get out the oil plug at the bottom?

I just used a normal allen wrench, worked fine.

 

[SteveinPA]

You have to have the fork tube in the lower in order to install a new seal. Or am I missing something here?

 

[LRCXed]

Yes silent, that's how it's done on the model CX. The allen wrench you need is a 6mm. You can put the long end in and use a wrench or a pair of vise grips to turn it.



Softie

The Gl series bikes have a different type of forks. As you can see in your pictures the bushing at the end of the fork won't allow this type of rebuild. The CX models don't have anything at the end of the tube to keep it from sliding out after the allen bolt is removed.

 

[midgtmn]

Just a tip, use your normal allen key, and add an adjustable C-Wrench to the allen key to give yourself the leverage. Soak with PBlaster a few hours before you start. The nut, not the wrench

 

[Blindstitch]

An impact driver with a long 6mm bit on it works fine for me.



A few weeks back I fought one bolt out and ended up cutting a allen down so I could stick it in a socket for the impact driver.

 

[Silent-Knight]

An impact driver with a long 6mm bit on it works fine for me.



A few weeks back I fought one bolt out and ended up cutting a allen down so I could stick it in a socket for the impact driver.

I'm liking that idea.

 

[midgtmn]

An impact driver with a...

I would have done that if i had any trouble with the bolt - on a college kid's budget, a cut up allen key is great for this application, but means that i am out an allen key for the other times! Definitely a good method though, the impact driver is much safer from a shearing bolts off perspective than a long lever arm with slow pressure.

 

[Blindstitch]

The key I cut was bought at the Dollar Store. No real loss.

 

[Stubby]

This link might help.

http://www.motorcycl...eals/index.html

 

[Silent-Knight]

Thanks for all the help guys. Fork seals installed, no leaks. Changed the suspension oil to 10W while I was at it. 10W was quite a change in the forks. I can't imagine what 20W would be like. That may be too much for me. Thanks again all!