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Discussion Starter #1
I've rear through quite a few topics and also found d Bob's great spreadsheet on this. My forks have bottomed out going off a curb and I'd like to add preload as I find them bouncy. I used 15wt fork oil in them. On other builds I've just added spacers to get some stiffness back.

I'd just like to know what's the average for this of you who have installed PVC spacers? What size/length did you use?
 

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Depending on how much the rider weighs, I use 20w Belray oil, and a 3/4" to 1" PVC spacer.
To add the oil, fill it up most of the way and work the fork up and down slowly and let it sit till you see no more air bubbles. Then compress the fork all the way down, and measure from the top of the chrome tube down to the level of the oil. 5" for heavy riders, 5 1/2" for lighter riders. When the level is set, extend the fork and install the long spring first with the tight winding coils at the bottom, then the washer, followed by the PVC spacer and top short spring. Cap it off and your ready to go.

BTW, I'm about 205#s and set mine at 5" and 1" spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What diameter PVC did you use? I'm 220# and I have 33mm forks.
Depending on how much the rider weighs, I use 20w Belray oil, and a 3/4" to 1" PVC spacer.
To add the oil, fill it up most of the way and work the fork up and down slowly and let it sit till you see no more air bubbles. Then compress the fork all the way down, and measure from the top of the chrome tube down to the level of the oil. 5" for heavy riders, 5 1/2" for lighter riders. When the level is set, extend the fork and install the long spring first with the tight winding coils at the bottom, then the washer, followed by the PVC spacer and top short spring. Cap it off and your ready to go.

BTW, I'm about 205#s and set mine at 5" and 1" spacer.
 

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I use the 1/2" PVC sprinkler system riser from any home store. They're gray most of the time, and come in several lengths. The outer diameter is just shy of 3/4" OD, but it's much thicker than regular PVC pipe and holds up well.
Go with the 1" spacer and 5" oil level.

One more tip. Before you put the springs in, find the starting point of the threads for the fork cap and put a mark on it with a sharpie. It'll save you the headache of trying to thread it in against the spring pressure.
 

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As stated above,

"When the level is set, extend the fork and install the long spring first with the tight winding coils at the bottom, then the washer, followed by the PVC spacer and top short spring."
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As stated above,

"When the level is set, extend the fork and install the long spring first with the tight winding coils at the bottom, then the washer, followed by the PVC spacer and top short spring."
Yes, I read that, but the last 2 items are in an "and" formation, which could mean in any order, and I would think that if the first 2 things are in an order, the second ones should be, but not necessarily in their stated order. So, I'm verifying and asking for clarification. Per the gov't, "Trust, but verify".
 

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OK, I get ya. Sorry. Hope this makes it clearer.

When the oil level is set,
Extend the fork and install the long spring first with the tight winding coils at the bottom,
Then the washer,
Then the PVC spacer,
Then the short spring.
Now you can cap it off.
 

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No No No,,,, thank YOU sir. It's the least I can do. Thank YOU for having my book link in your signature line!

BTW; awesome job on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lol, it's the best damn book out there! I've read the book more than any other in the past few years. After rebuilding the carbs and firing the bike, the book helped me to also resync it again. After a few resyncs, all was good in the world. :)

Thanks! Because of it, I have a few other people locally asking me to help them with their CX and GL. Already told them to buy the book.
No No No,,,, thank YOU sir. It's the least I can do. Thank YOU for having my book link in your signature line!

BTW; awesome job on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's the part I got, and it fits well. Front end feels a lot better. Thanks!

I do feel that the coupler vs the riser looked thicker and a touch wider, so I may go back and pick them up and try them inside. I'll take pictures of both. While these do work, I think the coupler may provide more endcap contact for the small spring placed above it. A washer may have the same affect between them.
 

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That's the correct style riser, but I failed to tell you to get a long one so that you can cut the 1" sections from the center un threaded portion. It'll be much thicker than the threaded ends of the one you got. My bad, sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
All good. They're only 38¢ so no loss. These work, I'd just like more contact with the spring. A washer will fix that, but the coupler is about the same length, but thicker. The ones you are probably talking about are the 2" riser. Those have a 1" section in them to cut.

I'm gonna pick up the couplers and a few 2" risers and compare them. We'll find the one that needs the least modification and get part numbers so we can document this at Motofaction for others.
That's the correct style riser, but I failed to tell you to get a long one so that you can cut the 1" sections from the center un threaded portion. It'll be much thicker than the threaded ends of the one you got. My bad, sorry!
 

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I have risers that are 12"s long. Actually I have several left over from doing my sprinkler system. Get one that you can cut several spacer from. That way if you want longer or shorter spacers you'll have extra to use.
 

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I made this tool out of scrap wood and an extra socket when I was working on my forks. Compressing the springs while trying to keep the cap balanced and catch the sweet spot of threads is a bear. This made it so much easier to put the caps back on. Fits in the palm of your hand and gives you the ability to put steady downward force on cap. No dent in my hand and no swearing at forks.
 

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BTW: The info on calculating the actual optimum spacer length is not mine. I just take every opportunity to tell people here about it because I feel that it is better to spend the extra 20 minutes or so and have the best you can have instead of assuming that what a different person on a different bike thought was close might be OK for you on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I made this tool out of scrap wood and an extra socket when I was working on my forks. Compressing the springs while trying to keep the cap balanced and catch the sweet spot of threads is a bear. This made it so much easier to put the caps back on. Fits in the palm of your hand and gives you the ability to put steady downward force on cap. No dent in my hand and no swearing at forks.
Nice! I palm my ratchet and have lines drawn on the cap and the tube. Learned the lesson ages ago.
 
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