[LowLife1220]

what weight of fork oil are you guys using? i gotta rebuild my front forks this weekend and Don had mentioned that factory fresh the suspension was a little soft. my front end is completely blown out to where it compresses to the stop. i want a firmer front suspension so i was going to change the oil viscoity.

 

[Cobram]

CX forks are on the soft side, minimum 15wt and I've had best results with 20 wt. Anything less, and you'll have more dive than desireable during braking, IMHE.



Assuming it's a CX, make a sig for your posts that lists the bike, makes for more relative advise for specific models.

 

[Shep]

20w/Heavy,



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heav...9927114QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[kpcx500]

The Clymer manual isn't that clear to me. Do I need to take the forks apart to change the oil? Or can I just take out the drain plug at the bottom and add the correct amount to the top?



Thanks





****Never mind, just realized that there is no drain plug****

 

[Blindstitch]

20w Belray.

 

[Shep]

The Clymer manual isn't that clear to me. Do I need to take the forks apart to change the oil? Or can I just take out the drain plug at the bottom and add the correct amount to the top?



Thanks





****Never mind, just realized that there is no drain plug****

You are lucky.My UK CXs don't have a drain plug so I have to remove the forks to do the job correctly.Just drain yours and if you like fill with some cheap engine oil,bounce up and down a couple of times and let drain for a good half an hour.Then fill up using the correct amount for your model.The old engine oil will do a cheap and safe flush-out.You most likely won't have to do this again as once you have fresh fork oil.Change it every 2nd oil engine change and you will be fine.You can change it every oil change if you want to be really picky but it's not required.

 

[bear351c]

Bummer. No drain plugs !!! I must have the Executive model.

 

[Shep]

Bummer. No drain plugs !!! I must have the Executive model.

I have a set of Honda 400n Superdream forks that have the drain plugs that are a straight swap.I took them off as one of the fork seals has gone and I couldn't be arsed to change it as I had a spare set of CX forks to go straight in.Of course Sod's law this year one of the seals in the CX forks went<grin>

PS

How are you doing Bear?

 

[bear351c]

Doin' well, thanks M8. Out of hospital, and at home on crutches for the next 2 months or so.

The food here is a little better than at hospital, but the scenery here, doesn't change as much.

 

[Shep]

Doin' well, thanks M8. Out of hospital, and at home on crutches for the next 2 months or so.

The food here is a little better than at hospital, but the scenery here, doesn't change as much.

Tip:When you see those curvy things in the road,follow them<grin>

What do you mean F*ck off?

Heh Heh

 

[Bryan]

I'll be doing mine again in a week or so in order to change from the 10W to 20W. The last time I changed the seals thinking that was a requirement for doing the job - are you suggesting that a seal change is not necessary in order to change the fluid? I do not have drain plugs.

 

[Shep]

I'll be doing mine again in a week or so in order to change from the 10W to 20W. The last time I changed the seals thinking that was a requirement for doing the job - are you suggesting that a seal change is not necessary in order to change the fluid? I do not have drain plugs.

I don't change any seals when just refreshing my fork oil.As you have renewed yours that's a good thing anyway and if done correctly will last years.



Hope that helps

 

[rube]

while on the subject of forks... what springs are being used as replacements these days?

 

[Blindstitch]

You could always drill and tap the forks.

 

[Bryan]

Have you actually drilled and tapped your forks?

 

[kingston73]

while on the subject of forks... what springs are being used as replacements these days?

I have a set of Progressives in mine, others have had good results with Race Tech.  Or you could just add plastic shims on top of your old springs to preload them a bit more.

 

[Blindstitch]

Have you actually drilled and tapped your forks?

I haven't but I know it can be done.

I have a set of lowers that would be worth practicing on but then again the fork lower on my bike are powdercoated and I don't want to go through that again.

 

[natemeins]

Just so I, we, and the noobs are clear, you are using a 20 wt FORK oil as opposed to a 20wt Motor oil? Can you use the the latter? Is a 20 wt fork oil common enough to find locally? The only reason I ask is this is my first experience with a vintage Honda. I have several years experience on old Yamahas (RD's, XS's etc) and they actually used 10 wt motor oil as fork oil.

 

[Shep]

Just so I, we, and the noobs are clear, you are using a 20 wt FORK oil as opposed to a 20wt Motor oil? Can you use the the latter? Is a 20 wt fork oil common enough to find locally? The only reason I ask is this is my first experience with a vintage Honda. I have several years experience on old Yamahas (RD's, XS's etc) and they actually used 10 wt motor oil as fork oil.

You've hit on one of my suspicions.I don't know if so called,"Fork oil" is re-badged mineral motor-oil.The 20w heavy fork oil I have smells identical to the gallon of 20w50 motor oil I have here and I have a very keen sense of smell.I can easily tell the difference between say Hypoid gear oil,ATF and engine oils and even engine oils that are tired/burnt.

 

[natemeins]

The only difference I can think of between the two is maybe motor oil has detergents and additives that fork oil wouldn't, or would that pop a flag on your sniffer too? (haha!) could that potentially degrade the rubber of the seals? If not it would seem easier to obtain a motor oil to use. Anyone out there gone this route that can shed some light?